Toilet waste pipe - floor mounted!

[guv]

In my downstairs loo, we wish to replace the existng WC and do something to cover the clay waste pipe and enable floor tiling to take place.

We currently have a non coupled WC/Cistern, which I am assuming will have to be the same - unless we created a false wall to hang the cystern, or dig up and move the exisitng.

So a relatively easy question....

That is the best way to replace the loo and is there anything in particular (ie a name) that I need to ask for? Everywhere I look, all I ever see are WCs with waste pipes coming out to meet a wall. The exisiting one has an upsidedown U bend to take it to the floor - with no flexability.

I am obviously also concerned about removing this pipe - since damagiing the exisiting clay fitting, is likely to be expense (I would think!)

Any helpful advise appreciated.

[guv]

The other thing I forgot to mention.....

I did say I was looking to lay floor tiles in this WC room. Obviously, if the WC was placed on top of the tiles, it would make the tiling job much easier. However, raising the height, may have an implication to that clay waste fitting?

[EricP]

They are called P trap and S trap bogs.

You have an S trap and all the new ones are P trap.

[EricP]

At least the shed ones are. (Before I get my knuckles rapped)

[auctions]

True, but if you put a swan-neck 90 degree connector on, you end up with one that works like an s-trap. Different toilets have the connection at different distances from the wall. A Roca senso compact for instance includes a swan neck connector which goes into the floor about 150mm from the wall (to the middle of the pipe). If you get a back-to-the-wall toilet with a concealed cistern, you can build a small boxed in half-wall behind to take the cistern, and make it whatever size you need to put the pipe in the right place. I use roca laura btw toilets with grohe cisterns.

A

[guv]

I thought you guys were having a laugh here by talking about P's and S's! Ho hum! ;-)

Cheers for that. I had thought about using a closed coupled loo that I could create a false wall to accomodate. The problem with this is the fact it is a fully tiled room and have no spares. It would look rather odd!

I will probably just get the thing replaced with like for like. So I should be asking for an S trap loo?

SInce I will also be tiling the floor, is the raising of the floor by a cm or so, going to cause any problem with the connection to the waste by being raised slightly?

[EricP]

No, it's the shape of the bends in them. down, around, up, around, and down: S trap

Down, around, up, and straight away. P trap. :))

Yep. :)

Not with an S trap. The outlet should go down to the floor to base level, and if not, every shed has an adapter for about £5. (White thing like a drainpipe joint with rubber fins inside it.)

[guv]

Yeh, I realised there was a logic in it. But I was thinking of a different type of reference! :-) I wont go any further! ;-)

Excellent. I was hoping that would be the case.

Many thanks for your help....

[The Natural Philosopher]

Juts remember to full the fins with silicone, cos otherwise it will get full of s**te..

[guv]

I'm sure that is very good advice! ;-)

[Dave Liquorice]

It's point but you'd never get the thing out again, at least not in one peice and you'd have to clean up the inside of the pipe before refiting. On the whole I'd rather deal with a bit of easyly removed s**te.

[auctions]

And it shouldn't get full of anything - the fins are between the connctor and the pipe, and should be compressed when the connector is inserted. The lowest fin forms a seal, so there should be no way for anything to get back up between the fins.

A

[Dave Liquorice]

"should" being the operative word. If one fin is good enough why are there four or so? It doesn't take a very big gap for muck to get through and build up over the years.

[auctions]

'cos one wouldn't be very stable or allow for much adjustmaent - with four you get 2 inches of insertion plus a seal top and bottom, and the appropriate amount of resistance to movement. The seal if fitted properly is airtight - installations should be pressure tested - so I don't think much else will get through. The only times I've seen problems are when the connector is fitted in the wrong diameter pipe - for instance going directly into the socket of a bend rather than into a piece of pipe.

A

[The Natural Philosopher]

Not if it leaks out. I have found those seals are NOT really that good. Some at least.

[The Natural Philosopher]

SHOULD being the operative word...IME its not the same as WILL or DOES...