Sealing round bath

[SamanthaBooth]

The silicone needs replacing round the bath as its leaking. Do I fill the bath then reseal it or just simply seal it? Sorry for the dumb question, never done this before

Thanks

[The Medway Handyman]

If its a GRP (plastic) bath then the accepted wisdom is to fill it with water so it 'drops' a little, then silicone. If its steel or cast I personally doubt if it would move at all.

I find it very awkward to work on a bath thats full, so I usually sit inside the bath when I apply the silicone & hopefully my manly bulk will do any lowering.

Whatever you do, buy one of these

simply would not believe how well they work & what a neat finish they give.

[Alan]

In message , SamanthaBooth wrote

Fill the bath with water first. The original may have failed because the bath wasn't filled the first time the sealing was done.

[SamanthaBooth]

Thanks you two, I appreciate this

[Steven Campbell]

Definitely agree with Dave. Use a Fugenboy Kit or the equivalent. Here is a video of one in action

[John]

Check the feet of the bath first to minimise movement.

[Dave Liquorice]

You really need to remove as much of the old seal as possible first. You can probably just cut it away with a sharp blade at a shallow angle to bath and tiles. A lot will depend on how neat the current finish is.

After that yes fully fill the bath to open up the gap (even if you can't see a difference there will be one) then seal and let the silicone cure before emptying the bath.

The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked.

[The Medway Handyman]

Not trying to start a fight Alan, but I simply don't think a cast iron bath or even a steel bath would move at all, GRP yes.

[Dave Liquorice]

True enough for CI or steel but the floor might give under the extra weight. Unless it's a solid floor with the bath feet directly in contact with it.

[Lobster]

But that can't do the necessary, as (a) the lowering won't be done over the whole bath and (b) unless you stay sitting there until the stuff has actually set it's no better than not sitting there at all (or do your punters not mind paying your hourly rate for you to sit there all day? ;-) )

I fill the bath, apply silicone and Fugenboy, and don't empty the bath until the following day.

David

[The Natural Philosopher]

Steel does. nIts not that thivk if its been 'pressed'

[John Rumm]

The bath may not, but the floor will a bit.

[Peter Scott]

I've never filled a bath that I was sealing and the seals have never failed. The seal flexes. The most important thing is cleanliness to get a good adhesion. Scrape off the old seal scrupulously, ideally with a backed razor blade. Make sure you scrape down into the grouting dents. Then chemically clean with alcohol (IPA or meth). As it's the first time, practice the steady movement and rate to put the sealant on. A good solid gun helps with control. Remember to click the pressure off the gun when you stop or you'll get gunge everywhere. Have paper towel handy to mop up.

Your first go will be a mess. My son has just found that out in his shower. If a large gap do two runs with the first just filling the gap. Finish with a finger wetted with water with a tiny drop of detergent in. Be prepared to swear and start again. At least the sealant is cheap!

Peter Scott

[Lobster]

Not to disagree with any of the above; however it can't be a bad thing to fill the bath first, even if only for "belt and braces". It simply provides for remaining intact under a greater degree of movement between wall and bath than if you don't fill the bath first - so why not do it?

That's far inferior to the Fugenboy method as described by others, as you will agree if you ever use one!

There is a theory that using a finger (the more so if wetted with saliva!) makes it more likely that mould will grow on the seal later - but not sure about that!

David

[Peter Scott]

Led me to wonder if I had ever sealed on a bath on a wooden floor, but I have. It's odd this. Everyone seems to think that filling is a good idea. The guy who said that working over a bath of water had a point though.

I suppose the idea is that dragging with a finger roughens the surface and allow a plaque to build up? Possible I guess, but with a light touch I finish with a glossy surface. Even when the grouting has become a bit yucky the seal seems to be OK.

Anyway each to his own. I will take a look at the Fugenboy when I next need to reseal though.

Peter Scott

[The Medway Handyman]

Same experience here. Really sharp scraper & meths.

That were me. I just find it really difficult to get the right angle unless I'm in the bath.

Yup! Fugenboy rules!