2) Must the table saw machine be fixed to legs or fixed down to a
> workbench (which I don't have) or can it be operated safely from the > floor/ground?
my router table is fixed to a piece of mdf and a batten screwed to the underneath. I sit it on my cheapo but solid Wickes workmate and clamp the batten in the jaws. This arrangement may be too high up for many but I am fairly tall and like it.
I have seen contractors saws sitting on the ground by they are usually attached to a piece of ply or some such. The main limitation with this is comfort and ease of use. It is also hard to move quickly and easily when crouching or kneeling down.
I'd be tempted to try an experiment at this point - I'd get hold of an e-mail address for NuTool or whoever you might buy this item from, and I'd copy the questions you just asked here, to them. My suspicion is that you may learn more than just the answers to these questions, and that might be worth more than you'd think just now.
I have the sip 10 inch saw table which also has router and jigsaw spaces. I have set up a jigsaw in mine (an old black and decker) I used various screws and washers to fix it in the table. I do not find it much practical use. The saw bench comes with legs although I have also used it on a low bench. It is dangerous to use the saw bench unfixed with any decent sized bits of wood. The router mount facility would sort most smaller routers, all types require the use of a stand or similar to get clearance below the table for the router . The saw bench only has a fence, there is no safety guarding for a router. A dedicated router table would be far better.
The sip 10 inch saw with legs at costco is less than a hundred pounds at present, excellent value, although personally I would ignore the extra mountings and just use it as a large table saw bench. I have not seen the nutool version, but it sounds very like my sip.
I had seen your posts elsewhere on the subject of NuTool and table saws and considered writing to you privately before I posted this message... so thanks for replying!
Ahh.... major detail here. I hadn't thought of the clearance needed BELOW the table for the router.
Thank you for your various safety warnings.
Here is a pic of a Nutool 10" table saw but this item is advertising just the legs attachment:
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'm still unsure whether a table mounted router or a hand held would be better? I've heard they can be a bit of a beast to hand-hold... a friend of mine - who is a strapping big woman with more strength than the average bloke - has warned they pretty much have a life of their own. And what with me not having experience, this is why I was looking at an attachable table mounted router. And within all that, cost is a bit of an issue.
It is the fault of programs like "New Yankee Workshop" on Home & Leisure that show such beautiful woodwork and equipment like a hand-held router made to look like spreading butter on bread!!!
I sent NuTool an email after 7pm last night and just received an acknowledgement email this morning sent at 8.31am - which is quite encouraging at this stage!
I know what you mean about the support not being available, but on the other hand if they are ditributing kit at such low-cost for the masses then I'm prepared to accept that support may not be too forthcoming. However, there is little excuse for basic information to not be available - especially when safety is crucial and in my internet research have come across quite a few stories involving bits of fingers!
Holding a router is not usually a problem, holding the material still can be.
A router table is a nice thing to have, but with a good saw you can build a router table!
I suggest you buy a saw table like this and a cheap router, you will probably be able to attach the router with no need of any expensive extras, most router bases have a selection of holes to mount them with, a few screws may be needed to suit the holes. You will have to modify the fence on the saw table by adding a bit of wood with a gap in the middle so that the router bit will stick up and have a guide either side. Yes, I think Normliness is next to godliness.
And that's why I felt it was important enough to change my buying decisions. Oddly Ferm do reply to e-mails - if they had a seriously up market approach they could conquer the entire market, but they don't; so for now they don't overcharge and they do reply to e-mail. It's not a perfect world, but some bits of it work after a fashion, which is a fair start!
Not so much of an issue with the smaller 1/4" routers - but the bigger
1/2" beasties are likely to be too long to fit under unless the table is on a narrow set of legs or a workmate....
Hmmm - depends on what you are trying to do with it. The 1/4" routers are very easy to hand hold for many tasks and you can get good results that way. The 1/2" units tend to be bigger and heavier so are more of a handfull if you are having to support the weight of the unit when routing an edge or something like that.
Makes me wonder if she is using it right! If you start doing things like trying to cut in the wrong direction, or plunging into the middle of a bit of wood and then routing freehand it gets much harder to control. But putting profiles on edges with bearing guided cutters etc should be pretty straight forward.
Table mounting is handy for some types of work, and an absolute necessity when using the larger diameter cutters (like panel raising bits etc)
Much of the skill in routing is working out how to guide and anchour the router in the places you want it. Either with tables, fences, trammels etc, but also with home made jigs.
You might find it worthwhile getting a good book on router technique and jigs etc. The book I have found very good - especially for jigs and info on making router tables etc is:-
Woodworking with the Router: Professional Router Techniques and Jigs Any Woodworker Can Use
by Bill Hylton, Fred Matlock
See Amazon here:-
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It is the fault of programs like "New Yankee Workshop" on Home &
Well in some cases it should be much the same only less greasy!
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