My daughters Logitek PC speakers are suffering from warranty expiration (I don't know if she's kept the receipt anyway).
There is a "Subwoofer" (4" speaker in a 6" cube) and a pair of satelite tweeters.
Also in the box is a switchmode PSU (dead) and and all the other gubbins on a single board including an amp on a chip.
Any ideas what the output of the PSU should be?
I am thinking maybe 5V at around an amp or two, or 12V at around an amp or two.
I can try with a 5V and work up from there, but I thought i'd check here in case anyone has the definitive answer, or a very good guess (maybe amps always need 12V??)
Can you not get spares for this psu then? Often power amps run on higher voltages, so don't be surprised if its up to 35 volts. I'm assuming the psu is inside the woofer box, which means you cannot replace it unless you know the type. Currents can be quite high, particularly for small sub woofers as they tend to have longer throws and ported cabinets.
Often though it is just a stupid bridge rectifier which goes blowing a fuse.
voltages, so don't be surprised if its up to 35 volts. I'm assuming the psu is inside the woofer box, which means you cannot replace it unless you kno w the type. Currents can be quite high, particularly for small sub woofers as they tend to have longer throws and ported cabinets. Often though it is just a stupid bridge rectifier which goes blowing a fuse. Brian -- From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active wrote in messag e news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com... > Hi All, My daughters Logitek PC speakers are suffering from warranty expiration ( I > don't know if she's kept the receipt anyway). There is a "Subwoofer" (4" speaker in a 6" cube) and a pair of satelite > tweeters. Also in th e box is a switchmode PSU (dead) and and all the other gubbins > on a singl e board including an amp on a chip. Any ideas what the output of the PSU should be? I am thinking maybe 5V at around an amp or two, or 12V at ar ound an amp or > two. I can try with a 5V and work up from there, but I thought i'd check here > in case anyone has the definitive answer, or a ver y good guess (maybe amps > always need 12V??) TIA Chris
It's possible I could get spares Brian, but not easily, and also I don't ha ve sufficient knowledge of electronics to fault find. Also a lot of it is SMT, and i've no rework facilities. but I do have a number of dead wall wa rts and laptop PSUs, so if I can find something that will drive the remaini ng electronics, that will be a quick cheap and simple fix.
Dead ones won't be any better than the PSU you have. B-)
Close examination of the board markings might reveal a rail voltage but if it's all one board possibly not. Or look up the amplifier chip part number and see what the makers application sheet uses. The chances are the OEM won't have done much more than copy that.
Not done a full road test yet, but 12V seems to have done the trick (and I did find the details of one of the amps on badcaps, looked up the spec and that seemed to indicate 12V was good too
35v is only a peak current of about 4A into a 4ohm speaker and well with a decent one perfectly fine However decent is not what you get in most pc speakers.
most PC amps are however 12v ones using ubiquitous car stereo chipsets.
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