Piggin Doors - an Idea!

[david lang]

Hi

Forgot to mention in my rant about Wickes hardwood doors, that, in a moment of inspiration, I came up with a cracking idea.

The door in question was about 3mm too wide - not an easy amount to cut off accurately and was best done on the hinge side, to avoid the locking gear.

Not wishing to have to cut all the rebates for the hinges again, I came up with the following idea;

I set up my circular saw and a batten to take off a 3/8" strip, then simply glued it back on again. A little sanding and the join is invisible - the door is now 3mm smaller, that being the width of the saw blade.

Have I just re invented the wheel, or can I claim my Nobel Prize for DIY?

Dave

[Set Square]

It would have been easier to plane it off with an electric plane.

[Andy Hall]

Take it back? :-)

Wouldn't a plane have been easier?

[david lang]

Not so matey, then I would have to have re cut the hinge rebates, or they wouldn't be deep enough.

Dave

[meow2222]

I'm trying to imagine what the rest of your place looks like

NT

[Stuart Noble]

One pass with a circular saw with 100% accuracy and squareness compared to a plane? You must be kidding. Yes, the OP has re-invented the wheel.

[Rob Morley]

Being a connoisseur of creative bodging I do appreciate the originality, but it does seem to be a solution to a non-existent problem.

[Chris Bacon]

I like the idea, too, but agree - what did you glue it with, davidlang?

[Matt]

Somehow I've got a vision of a 3/8 wide section of door attached to its hinges and the rest of it lying on the floor. Hope your gluing is good :-)

[nrh]

In news: [e-mail], Rob Morley scribed:

Why 'non existant'? It was 3mm too wide for the frame. In my book, a door wot won't shut, /is/ a bleedin' problem! ;-)

N.

[Brian Sharrock]

It's an article of faith amongst wood-workers and glue-makers that the glue-join is stronger than the wood. A length of Wood, as you'll know is actually tubes, somewhat like drinking straws, of woody stuff 'glued' together when growing as a tree. Interrupting the joined-together nature of these drinking straws by removing a kerf's width of 'straws' then joining the two exposed surfaces together with a stronger glue shouldn't lead to the situation you've envisioned . But , as Norm says, 'You can never have enough clamps' and one hopes David did!

[John Rumm]

I presume your cut section is near enough to the edge for the hinge screws to pass right through it into the remainder of the door.

[Chris Bacon]

The screws will hold it...

[Chris Bacon]

The screws need to go through 3/8" of material before the door timber proper, so should be OK if they're 1 1/4" long or more.

[Chris Bacon]

It probably wouldn't matter if he used no glue at all - it's only holding the edge on so the paint doesn't crack along a line...

[Rob Morley]

He proposed his method as an alternative to deepening the hinge rebates and skimming 3mm off the edge, which really isn't a big job.

[Andy Hall]

Not really. It depends on the plane, its setting and the user.

A router and a clamp guide would be even better still, but ones of this length are relatively expensive.

Mmmm....

[nrh]

In news: [e-mail], Rob Morley scribed:

I should imagine to an experienced carpenter, that would indeed ring true. However, if the OP is anything like me, I too should have been chuffed to have found another way around what I know to be a wretched job. Only in my case, I faced the opposite problem in that I needed to make doors bigger to fit an oversized frame. That required adding a strip of hardwood down the hinged edge, and then making the rebates for the hinges. Ugh! :-(

N.

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Does no one use a 'spear&jackson', hand plane anymore? These damn electric planes are a bugger to use it only takes a slight pause in the length of the wood and we have a hollow, arrrrrgh!!

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

When I have a couple of mm's to take of a door these are ideal for the job.

Benjamin Middlethwaite