Part P registration - what tools required?

I think I am going to go for Part P 'defined scope' registration soon.

I've fired off a few emails to various bodies this evening, and from the web sites concerned, it seems I should be able to qualify reasonably easily. I do have a query for those who have done it - what test equipment is needed. I'm pretty sure a £20 multimeter and a plug-in socket tester wouldnt suffice!

Thanks Alan.

Reply to
A.Lee
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A.Lee wibbled on Thursday 08 July 2010 19:01

A multifunction tester or testers that do/does dead-resistance, live loop impedance (and/or PFC), 500V insulation test and RCD tests (tripping times primarily, but a ramp test is useful to see if the RCD is over sensitive).

These could be bought as a single device or separate instruments.

Single: Pros: One calibration charge, probably more cost effective Cons: If it breaks you are out of action

Multiple: Pros: Get the most suitable instrument in each class. Not fully out of action if one breaks (though as you can't complete the full range of tests you might be out of action for all intents and purposes)

Cons: Probably cost more, multiple calibration charges.

I really like the Megger 1552. Can be had off ebay, ideally get one less than 3 years old then it still has warranty.

The auto-RCD sequence feature of the 1552 is nice if you have to plug the instrument in a long way from the CU (but I suppose you could just hold the probes on the CU directly...) It applies the various tests while you stand by the CU resetting the RCD. At the end, you go and read out all the results from the meter.

If you are expecting to complete loads of EICs then the Megger 1553 has a computer link IIRC (as do many other makes/models) which makes for easier record keeping and you can print off the EIC rather than hand filling.

Read the IET forums for opinions on various makes. Some are reputedly complete s**te, but some other than Megger have a good name too.

In addition, a CalCard or home made resistance box makes for a quick ready- check at the start of testing and you'll be wanting a 13A breakout plug with

3 4mm probe sockets. There are ES/BC versions but without a ready connection to the CPC at Class II lamp fittings, these aren't as useful as they seem...

You may or may not want a wander lead (long thickish wire with 4mm plug on one end and 4mm socket on the other. I use one occasionally to test earth continuity to random pipes and other misc jobs. Don't buy reqady made - total rip off. I made one with a reel of instrument wire (super flexible) from Rapid, 4mm plug on one end and soldered a 4mm socket on the other heatshrinked up. Stored on the original reel.

BTW - I got mine for LABC happiness purposes, but I did do the basic VRQ course (I guess you'll do that plus the C&G 2382?

Reply to
Tim Watts

From reading the various trade body sites, 2381 is pretty much all that is needed for some, as well as a Competence Certificate from a 3 - 5 day course, knowledge of 17th edition, and a site visit to see work completed. It'll be close to £2500 for that, so is not a cheap way of doing a few kitchen installs per year myself, but in the long run, I think it'd be money well spent.

Ta Alan.

Reply to
A.Lee

Pretty much what Tim says below.

I actually prefer the all in one testers. I am using the Dilog 9083P at the moment.

And good luck with it.

Cheers

Adam

Reply to
ARWadsworth

A.Lee wibbled on Thursday 08 July 2010 20:05

It's being replaced by the 2382 this year (I think). Same thing basically.

That competence cert sounds like a VRQ. Basically, we did 3 days of practical work - bloke would explain something then each of use had a bit of ply on the wall with a CU and random accessories. We had to wire it up neatly and properly. Then test it. Day 4 was some multiguess exams, all open book apart from the Building Regs bit (why I have no idea).

There was a separate rig for live test demos.

Most of the folk were pros doing a trade transfer or needing to bring electrical work under Part P. Few DIYers too.

That's the 2381/2382 - all theory. It's mostly about being able to know how to look up stuff quick in the big book (it is an open book exam).

We were told: VRQ + 2381 (as was) gets you into the NIC. 2 site visits and if OK you are fully signed up as a DI. Other bodies presumably vary... Which one are you aiming for?

You can do it for rather less:

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near Croydon, South London - next to the station, just down from Ikea.

750 quid for the VRQ (gone up rather a lot since I did it)

420 for the 2382 at the same place, but you *can* just go to the IET in London and sit the exam for less than 100 quid. You can do online past papers and read the big book yourself. It's not actually that hard - more about familiarity.

The above would be quite suitable if you basically know what you're doing and need some edges polished up and a bit of paper.

However, if you wanted a "real" course, that actually taught everything relevant, there are multi week courses which are considerably more in depth.

I'd expect a fortnight's course for 2500 (or a week's residential where the day ran from 8-8 and it was a full 7 days) but I'm well away many places are charging that for a week of light days, trying to coin it in like the HiPS lot.

HTH

Reply to
Tim Watts

is there not a recurring annual fee as well, to maintain the certification?

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

Yes, the cheapest is around £350/yr.Then there is a fee for initial application, so first year would be £600ish. First Course, £5-700, second course, about the same, or can be done by lots of reading the manuals, so between £120 and 700. Test equipment £400. Buying of 17th edition and other material, probably £75-100. That is pretty close to £2500, without the extra work lost in the meantime. If you do 'home study, I reckon I could get the cost down to £1500ish, possibly a little less. It makes me wonder if it is worth it, if spread over the next 10 years, then maybe, if I finish after 5 years, no way woudl it break even. Alan.

Reply to
A.Lee

Tim Watts wibbled on Thursday 08 July 2010 21:12

From your other post, I gather the 2500 is your total cost, including equipment etc? If so, that's probably more reasonable...

Reply to
Tim Watts

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