Oak wallplate cracks - should i cover it? how?

[dicegeorge]

How shall I cover these cracks in the oak wallplate before putting the slat es back? Any accidental water would sit on the oak, creep down the cracks i n it and by the brick chimney and rot it. The cement render on the wall ori ginally came to above the top of the oak, there was a line of bricks along there - but the lime mortar had changed to powder so there was no protectio n against damp - which would have stayed in there and had no air to dry it out. Maybe I should put a roof batten on top of the oak and then a plastic vent? And fill the gaps with wood glue? Or paint the top of the oak? and w hat about the gap between the oak and the chimney brick - silicon mastic? S uggestions please.... [g]

[Tim Watts]

Well - the wallplate should *not* be getting wet ;-) So I would not bother.

But if you really want to - Geocel "The Works" is an excellent sealant and would be ideal for what you want.

I've been using it on the advice of a carpenter I know for the joints in my mahogany window frames - the joints have opened ip obe rthe decades to 2-4mm. Filler will fall out as the wood moves. The Geocel product sticks a lot better than silicone and is on the tougher side of flexible (high modulus).

Here's one in the right colour :)

It seems to be a very good flexible adhesive - used it the other day to stick a disc of fiberglass over the back of an extraneous hole on a electric meter box - and then to stick a smaller disc onto that, inside the hole. Then sealed the 3mm join for a smooth finish that looks almost as good as new.

[meow2222]

ates back? Any accidental water would sit on the oak, creep down the cracks in it and by the brick chimney and rot it. The cement render on the wall o riginally came to above the top of the oak, there was a line of bricks alon g there - but the lime mortar had changed to powder so there was no protect ion against damp - which would have stayed in there and had no air to dry i t out. Maybe I should put a roof batten on top of the oak and then a plasti c vent? And fill the gaps with wood glue? Or paint the top of the oak? and what about the gap between the oak and the chimney brick - silicon mastic? Suggestions please....

Isnt this just normal? AIUI oak's pretty durable.

NT

[Dave Liquorice]

Where is this water going to come from? The slates and sarking not to mention that low down on the roof 18 to 24" wide DPM or other robust material to take the wind exposure along the bottom edge of the slates will keep it dry. The face might get driven rain on it but that is exposed and can dry out. Even the top is exposed to the loft to dry.

Cut noggins to block the gap between the top of the rafters and top of the wall plate. Keeps out wild life (birds) and reduces the gale that would otherwise blow through the loft to a draft. They don't have to be gert bits of 2 x 2, 1/2" plank attached to the face will do. Attached to face also means you can take one out for access (cables, pipes, WHY).