Oak & UPVC

[51]

Hi all. I'm still working on finishing the window reveal/cavities after the double glazing was installed. I've done one bay window by using 4" bull nose skirting for the inner/adjacent face and then plaster up to the edge. And because this skirting is a bit knotty, I will paint it.

I haven't started the large (6' 6" from sill to top) bay window in the lounge and now the wife is giving me some nuclear grade ear ache. I have some 100mm x 28mm sawn oak and was thinking about using this in the same way I used the pine skirting above but varnished.

So I'm asking your advice on the aesthetics of this while overlooking the possible misuse of such nice pieces of oak for this particular job. The question is, will this oak when its finished and varnished look well next to the UPVC frames. I can't quite fill the picture out in my mind. I'm afraid it may look like a cashmere overcoat with galoshers :) Or it may look fantastic.

Has anyone done or seen anything like this?

Thanks.

Arthur

[Grunff]

Well, I fitted oak window sills to our white upvc windows, and I thought the result was nice. However, many people dislike upvc, and I think how you feel about it will largely depend on what you think of upvc.

As for varnishing oak, now that is just plain wrong.

[51]

Errmm.."its my first day, Mr Burns." Its true. I've never down any work with hardwood let alone quality oak. How should it be finished to preserve it?

Arthur

[Grunff]

Some people do varnish oak, but they're plain weird. Oil or wax, depending on the desired finish.

[mike. buckley]

If you wanted to remove wax and re-wax how would you remove the wax so as not to damage the smooth finish of the wood - are there any solvents for this?

[Grunff]

I don't think you can ever completely remove wax, or oil, since it soaks into the wood. You can remove the surface layer ready for rewaxing using a non-polar solvent. White spirit is a readily available non-polar solvent.

[mike. buckley]

Damn, that was simple! Thanks

[The Natural Philosopher]

Don't. One man's masterpiece is always another mans childish daubings.

Do a test bit and sit back and look at it for a week. Your question will be answered.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Wood goes with pretty well anything.

[Andy Dingley]

Varnish if you really want, but as oak is full of pores you either have to fill them before varnishing, or else you slather it in a squillion coats of varnish until they're full. Neither is a particularly good option.

Personally I'd oil it, shellac it, then wax it. I'd leave the pores visible and the whole idea would be to make it look like a few centuries of devoted servants hand polishing it, rather than there being any finish on there at all. If it were mine (and the room decor was right) I'd probably have ammonia fumed it first to darken it to a mid brown.

Oil and wax is a quick and easy finish for it. Two coats of Liberon's Finishing Oil (don't use linseed, don't use pure tung), leave it a day (at least, with the central heating on), then wax with Liberon Black Bison in Neutral (not Clear). Oak is a tough old wood. One of the better tools for applying wax to it is a small power drill with one of those radial bristle PLASTIC wire brushes in it (blue or red - from Axminster).

[marvelus]

You see staircases with hardwood treads and something cheaper painted white as a riser and they look good so I'd say it would work.