Rawldrills - obvious once you know. Google produces 42 hits.
Just think of it as a traditional Rawldrill that can be tapped very precisely with an ordinary hammer. It even has a convenient fluted handle.
(Dad, actually, which says something about my own age.)
The very smallest of the old Rawldrill collection (3/16") now lives in the case with the SDS drill, for jobs where a hole needs to be started in precisely the right place on glazed tiles or a very rough surface.
I believe they were called Rawltools.
Dave
Very similar to SDS if you think about. Whacked with a big hammer, turned, whacked, turned, whacked.
I used to have one, very useful bit of kit with a 4lb lump hammer behind it. How many Joules would that be?
Dave
Oi. ;-) They were needed for many things DIY until SDS became affordable. So last generation might be a better phrase. ;-)
Did you Google 'Rawltool'? That's what they're called.
The bricks are held in place by the weight of the ones on top.
But with mine, which is London stocks, I generally just use a hammer drill up to No 10 or so. Mainly because the SDS is in a case, and the bits are greasy. So kept for serious stuff. ;-)
No - Rawldrills are ordinary masonry drills - or were. The correct name is Rawltool.
Absolutely.
Yup - about the only DIY way of 'drilling' granite or stafford blues etc before SDS.
Later...;-)
It will depend on the wall I guess... we have solid 9" walls here with a further inch of rock hard render over. No problems drilling with the SDS, although you need to take it easy on the exit if drilling right through so that you don't take too big a lump out the wall as an exit wound!
I think my SDS and my hammer drill are simmilar weights... The hammer drill is in theory 2 speed (although only the fastest speed works now), so there is far less finesse than I get with the SDS and its very good speed controller.
Depends on how hard you hammer!
Lets say you stick 100N of force onto the hammer. That gives you a hammer acceleration of 100 / 1.8 = 55 m/s^2
Over a 20cm stroke length that will get you to an impact speed of sqrt( 2 * 55 * 0.2 ) = 4.7 m/s
energy = 0.5 * 1.8 * 22 = 20J
So quite a bit then!
Drill pilot holes, and enlarge with bigger bits. Whacking a large bit through a wall may well give trouble. Don't feed the second bit through too fast.
Again, it's technique - why doesn't anywhere offer a day course in "how to use DIY hand tools"? You need to support the wall where the bit will exit, and you won't get a huge crater in the wall which seems to be the desired aim of TV ariel installers, etc.
You do lose "feel" with an SDS drill - the machine itself should "float" on the drill bit, else drilling performance will be affected, and the bit also slops about compared to a bit held in a jawed chuck.
Begging their pardon (and yours). The one I've kept with the SDS is 400 miles away, but no doubt you're right.
That's what I generally do on most materials.
Probably ;-)
You need to support the wall
Assuming you want a hole all the way through (I didn't in this case as it was just for frame fixing plugs). When I *do* want to make a hole through a wall I always go right through with a small drill then often (of possible) drill back to the middle from each side.
That's the bit i meant .. I don't feel, in nice suitable material quite as in control as with a 'traditional' hammer drill. Partly due to the weight of my cheaper SDS drill compared with my hammer drills and as you say the 'floating' chuck thing.
I would consider myself fairly 'skilled' regarding hand / power tools and have used them most my life to good effect. However, I don't always go for a power tool when a simple hand tool will give similar results with no setting up, little noise, no power required and low dust.
Like today, even though it was quite warm I nipped about 20m of 'tounge' off some t&g boards with a small hand rip saw. To tidy up the edge and generally smooth the boards I used my Bosch belt sander (I did that bit outside) ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
"T i m" wrote
I don't think so. On the site it says "Ideal for use where power drills cannot be used and accurate holes are needed." so looks like a hand tool
I think you are right but these may be the 'bit's' that go inside a holder / handle? (but as you say, still manually powered) ;-)
I only saw the small picture and felt they weren't what I was thinking of (they probably are just an alternative design).
All the best ..
T i m
Why don't they just stand it in the kitchen with the rest of the groceries? Does soap powder *need* installing?
On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 10:14:12 +0100,it is alleged that "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" spake thusly in uk.d-i-y:
[snip]
No, but if it gets damp, some brands require an SDS chisel to break into lumps suitable for the dispenser.
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