Minor car repair,

[JimK]

Looks fine forget it.

If you can get the bonnet to shut so much the better ;^)

Jim K

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Waxoyl is one of those things I'm not sure why it appears to be the market leader. In all the tests of cavity wax I've seen it comes about last.

[Ian Jackson]

I've used exactly the same procedure for out-of-sight and 'underneath' repairs. The secret is to get the oil deep into the rust, and seal it in.

But as for the Poundshop/land WD40 clone, I've realised that it quickly evaporates totally away - whereas WD40 leaves an oily residue. It's more like a penetrating oil, and I suspect it's around 100% turpentine or white spirit.

[JimK]

"Waxoyl is one of those things I'm not sure why it appears to be the market leader. In all the tests of cavity wax I've seen it comes about last."

Mmm that's almost helpful.

Jim K

[Ian Jackson]

I wouldn't use anything like foam rubber as packing or filler. It will retain any water that gets into it, and that will accelerate further rusting.

[meow2222]

WD40 is white spirit with a trace of mineral oil. As its almost 100% volatile, nothing you put on will keep it there.

I'd take a guess that the clone would be just white spirit.

NT

[Adrian]

It says "Finnegans" on the tin, same as Hammershite - to which exactly the same comments apply.

[Dave Liquorice]

Quite it's 17 year old car, it's bound to have a bit of iron moth. Scrape the worst of the rust off, get access to the back of the arch (remove or shove out of the way the arch liner), clean that up a bit, get a bit of metal mesh and a pot of car body filler. Spread a good layer of filler on the mesh, squidge it against the back of the hole. roughly smooth the back to fully cover the mesh. Clear the front so it's not greatly proude, let that set. When it has roughly rub down any high spots on the face then fill carefully, let set, then into the progressivly finer rubbing down before painting. You'll never get a match, 17 yo paint will have faded ...

Some one commented just the other day that the British seem to be very precious about their cars. Personally I don't care a great deal, a car is a mechanical device to get me from where I am, to where I want to be. As with all mechanical devices they need maintenance on occasion to keep 'em working but that's all. Washing? The rain does that.

[Scott M]

Waxoyl have got the trademark that everyone remembers which is what sells stuff. I wasn't even aware there were alternatives to put up against it in a test!

[Ian Jackson]

In message , [e-mail] writes

Here we go again! WD40 certainly does leave an oily residue/film (and can indeed act as a lubricant).

And it doesn't half stink!

[Theo Markettos]

The idea is using WD40-alike for the water displacing properties. It displaces the water, and the Waxoyl layer mixes into this light volatile coating - better than trying to key Waxoyl [1] directly to cold damp bodywork. Or that's the theory anyway, as I said I haven't done scientific trials.

Theo

[1] I'm using Waxoyl as a generic term here; Toolstation does their own for a fraction of the price, I haven't done comparative testing

[Ian Jackson]

I doubt if WD40 displaces much water from deep-seated damp rust, so I've always tried to apply it when everything has been as dry as possible (even used a hot air gun to dry things out) - and after it's soaked well in, applied the more-gungey Waxoyl etc.

Had a quick look, but couldn't see it. Any idea of its name?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

You'll likely only find Waxoyl in your local Halfords. But there are many suppliers. I like Dinitrol. They do versions for penetration as well as just general coating. But like all these things a decent applicator is needed if you wish to coat the insides of things you can't see to check it's been done thoroughly.

[Theo Markettos]

Yes, this is not a job to be doing on a damp Thursday in November...

Theo

[Mr Fuxit]

As a highly skilled, long experienced (40 yrs) motor trader, I can

categorically state that there is only one product that meets the stringent

requirements of the industry...

Carlite Bonding.

HTH

[Ian Jackson]

Noted. Thanks

[Jonathan]

Interestingly my neighbours BMW estate (don't know the model) is also rusti ng on the front wheel arch and nowhere else.

Jonathan

[Adrian]

Worth remembering that, when the OP's BMW was built, a car of equivalent age would have been built in 1978. Any bets on how much rot it would have had by the mid '90s?