New tap through a thick wooden worktop.
Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm...... Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....
What's the remedy?
Tia
Jim K
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8 years ago
me tap shanks are too short ??!!
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- posted
8 years ago
Counterbore the underside of the worktop?
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- posted
8 years ago
counterbore
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- posted
8 years ago
I presume the taps are designed for a think sink rather than a 40mm thick worktop?
As others have said, some form of counterboring should be OK. You might want to do the counterboring first before drilling the rest of the hole, or is it now too late? :-(
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- posted
8 years ago
/As others have said, some form of counterboring should be OK. You might want to do the counterboring first before drilling the rest of the hole, or is it now too late? :-( /q
Got it in one Fred..... these are replacements, the worktops are well and t ruly fitted and any sort of counterbore is not going to be simple wrt acces s and the adjacent Belfast sink...
I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now taken by the ex tender?? Grrr
Any other ideas?
Tia
Jim K
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- posted
8 years ago
/I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now taken by the e xtender?? Grrr /q
Slightly more awake....
The thing with extenders that's got me stumped is if there's only a few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop, how do you get a good seal ? I'd exp ect that ideally they should be done up tight and seal on the flat faces of the tap tails, but without frigging about with the worktop that's not goin g to be possible... what are my chances of getting a seal just on the few t hreads showing? And with what? Ptfe?
Cheers Jim K
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- posted
8 years ago
If I recall, many makers of taps had what they called a 'long series' which were, um longer. Brian
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8 years ago
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- posted
8 years ago
Well, er yes this?
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Ideal until you faint at the price!
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8 years ago
/car body filler/q
R I g h t . . .
Jim K
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8 years ago
/Well, er yes this?
formatting link
GZW
Ideal until you faint at the price! /q
Hehe!!
I've seen radiator tail extenders in various lengths (for a lot less:-) tha t use the same approach and I could hopefully find some big fo washers to p ut between the extenders and the underside of the worktop to do the job of the backnuts BUT will I get a seal between te extenders and the few mm of t ap tail showing under the worktop?
Jim K
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- posted
8 years ago
I had the same thought regarding backnuts and washers. Depending on the quality of the surfaces, could you not use a fibre washer to seal?
Otherwise araldite? I'm assuming you'll never want to get them apart again! You could file the flats off afterwards to reduce required hole size in worktop?
As Brian suggested, could you not exchange the taps for ones of the right length of shank?
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- posted
8 years ago
/I had the same thought regarding backnuts and washers. Depending on the quality of the surfaces, could you not use a fibre washer to seal?
Otherwise araldite? I'm assuming you'll never want to get them apart again! You could file the flats off afterwards to reduce required hole size in worktop?
As Brian suggested, could you not exchange the taps for ones of the right length of shank?/q
The radiator extenders don't even have flats... but I think a different tap is the best avenue, shame it took long enough to find this one! The only w ay I can see extenders working will leave me either trying to bodge the sec uring of the taps to the worktop, or bodging the seal of the extenders onto the taps' tails, both will most likely entail frigging abt whittling wood off under worktops or trying to redrill/resize the existing holes..... how would I even do that?
Fuck it new tap!
Cheers
Jim K
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- posted
8 years ago
'fkin hell, has our old mate Russ Andrews gone into plumbing now;?...
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- posted
8 years ago
If you have a router it is possible to produce a counterbore underneath usi ng the router from above. Use a two flute cutter where the cutting edges ar e wider than the the tools shaft. Adjust the cutter so that the top of the fluting is at the distance from the router base is the depth of the counter bore. This might mean you will have to hold the tool in the collet protrud ing more than the ideal. Using the tool shaft like a guide bush will enable you to move the tool around the existing hole to produce a counterbore. Ca re would need to be taken not to exert too much pressure whilst cutting as this method relies on having the cutter protruding probably beyond the idea l.
Richard
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- posted
8 years ago
/If you have a router it is possible to produce a counterbore underneath us ing the router from above. Use a two flute cutter where the cutting edges a re wider than the the tools shaft. Adjust the cutter so that the top of the fluting is at the distance from the router base is the depth of the counte r bore. This might mean you will have to hold the tool in the collet protru ding more than the ideal. Using the tool shaft like a guide bush will enabl e you to move the tool around the existing hole to produce a counterbore. C are would need to be taken not to exert too much pressure whilst cutting as this method relies on having the cutter protruding probably beyond the ide al. /q
Well yeah I follow you but the distances are too big for anything I've ever seen router bit wise - 45mm thick worktop... Thought abt a forstner bit but I reckon I'd probably end up with a non-flat face on the inner counterbore against which I'd be trying to secure backnu ts...
Also any counter bore would have to be big enough to allow a spanner (box I spose, that I don't have) to access the backnuts...
Cheers Jim K
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- posted
8 years ago
Doesn't really matter much when just securing the tap to the worktop.
Doesn't cost much for one of the appropriate size.
Swapping the taps for ones with much longer threaded bits would be simpler tho.
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- posted
8 years ago
/Doesn't really matter much when just securing the tap to the worktop.
Doesn't cost much for one of the appropriate size.
Swapping the taps for ones with much longer threaded bits would be simpler/q
Inspirational as always Rod
Jim K
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- posted
8 years ago
The only other alternative I can see without changing existing taps or payi ng for expensive extensions, is to plug your existing holes and start from scratch drilling the counterbore first then re-drilling the plug out. Befor e inserting the plug I would drill a small pilot hole down the centre, this will assist in keeping your flat/Forstner bits on centre. I should imagine you only need to counterbore about 20mm deep to accommodate most back nuts and tap connectors I have experienced.
Richard
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- posted
8 years ago
/The only other alternative I can see without changing existing taps or paying for expensive extensions, is to plug your existing holes and start from scratch drilling the counterbore first then re-drilling the plug out./q
Yeah I reckon so. But icba with all that upside down under a kitchen sink, I'd have to totally unplumb the whole lot just to get in with a drill, then get a face full of sawdust.... nah!
Extensions aren't all expensive, but in this case aren't the answer.
Jim K