Been thinking of splashing out and buy myself a good powered drill. I have seen a dewalt dw25102k at B&Q that i like the look at. The drill has a SDS chuck which will solve all my problems with the drill slipping in my original keyless chuck. I am prepared to change all my drill bits for the SDS fitting but wanted to know can i buy the SDS drills that are for wood and metal. I know i can buy a normal keyless chuck and insert into the SDS chuck but it defeats what i'm trying to avoid a slipping in the chuck.
I've not seen wood and metal SDS bits. Indeed, I'd not expect to as the SDS system doesn't locate a bit very well - which doesn't much matter for masonry, but would for accurate drilling in metal. Nor does an SDS drill have the correct speeds for drilling other materials.
Why not just buy a non hammer two speed mains drill for everything other than masonry? They can be bought quite cheaply. And kept reasonably clean. ;-)
Also you certainly wouldn't want to be using an ordinary 3-jaw chuck (aren't SDS keyless? :-) ) with the SDS action switched on, as something would undoubtedly break - SDS is way more powerful than hammer action.
Bosch used to do an interchangable chuck system for some models of sds drills. Simply pull a collar on the sds chuck forward and off it pops, then push on the keyless 3 jaw chuck in it's place. You don't even have to take out the drill bit first. You'll have to check their catalogue to see if they still offer this. I'd certainly look for it when my current drill eventually needs replacement.
If you don't mind me saying so, you are missing the point about SDS chucks. Yes it is quick release, yes it does stop slipping, but the basic reason behind them is to allow the drill bit to move back & forth when its hit by the pnumatic hammer. SDS drills are the 'dog's' when it comes to drilling concrete, engineering brick etc - stuff that a hammer action drill won't touch.
I guess you might be able to buy wood & metal drill bits with an SDS shank but I've never seen them.
I have a keyed chuck for my SDS and also my stupidly powerful high torque drill. I use auger bits up to 38mm without slipping because they have three flats machined on the shank. I use the high torque drill to put in 10mm x
100mm coach screws (no pilot hole) without slipping, again because of the three flats.
The keyless chuck is the problem. I have a Jacobs (top quality manufacturer) on my 14:4v combi drill & it still slips occassionally - it's just what they do. Go for a key operated chuck or change bits to those with three flats on the shank.
I assumed the OP was talking about normal HS twist drills since he mentioned steel and wood. An auger, of course, locates into the work rather better than twist drills.
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