From previous posts I am looking to move from halogen to LED for the kitchen, Is this idea feasible. Using an outdoor LED floolight without PIR (say 10w) as a ceiling light to replace 5 halogens. It would certainly be cheaper than buying LED bulbs and by removing the bracket could be fitted flush with the ceiling.
Note on door, do not look at ceiling with remaining eye....
You'd need to look at the light distribution pattern, if it's mounted centrally, you'd always be working in your own shadow. If it's mounted over the work surface, you'd possibly be dazzled by the glare, while the rest if the room would be in shadow.
I've got a 10W unit in my front porch - I bounce the light off the white painted ceiling area which gives an even and less harsh light without too much hint of a shadow.
Given that I replaced my 50 watt GU10s halogens with 11 watt CFL and then 6 watt LEDs and got similar light levels , I would say you are going to need 3 x 10 watt floods at least> Beam angle is critical in many situations.
+1
However, I would caution that this range seems to be all over the place at the moment, and the one I bought had a very low quality LED - colour rendering is terrible, and efficiency is low.
I used the case and put 4 better quality LEDs in it.
Yes. OTOH if you switch from downlighters to uplighters one 10w should replace them fine.
NT
Don't think that'd be enough power (about a 4.5W LED replaces a 50W halogen) and probably you wouldn't get enough distance from the floodlight in a kitchen to get very good coverage.
My local HomeBargains had these
at two-for-a-fiver.
They may not be quite as bright as 50 W halogens but I have used them to replace 50 W halogens in bedside wall lights and they're amply bright enough for that application.
They might not last very long but at that price worth using for a trial run before spending serious money on expensive LEDs.
Owain
Do those have insulation plastic covering the front face?
Yes, or it may be glass.(Feels like glass round its edges, but feels like plastic when rubbing its face with a fingernail.) I've had one in a Lidl clamp-on flexible luminaire replacing its original halogen lamp for over a year. The light is comparable, but it now doesn't burn me when I adjust it. Definitely recommended!
Certainly a good price although the RRP looks to be somewhat inflated. No mention of light output (lumens) or light temperature (K) which is a shame for comparison with others.
Mike
Would this not result in just a pool of light in one place? I suppose one could use some kind of filter over it to scatter the light, but one of the good things about lots of likkle lities, is that they do not all blow at the same time and thus never left in the dark. Also I wonder how warm such led devices get when enclosed? I'd also nbe a bit wary of the intensity if you looked up, and the shadows which would be much like an old fashioned light bulb, maybe not quite so bad. What about the colour? Alternatively learn to do everything in the dark and save money! Brian
ITYM while the expensive ones reduce in price. Like most electronics, they get cheaper.
As general illumination probably OK, beam angle is roughly that of the "reflector". What might be an issue is the rather bright point source and thus hard shadows. Mutliple lamps would give multiple hard shadows, outer ones being filled.
What's wrong with the good 'ole 5' flourescent tube? Plenty of light from a wide source, so even if you are in your own shadow at a work surface a fair bit of light can get around you filing/softening that shadow. Under wall unit linear light is better for the work places though.
Mine seems OK apart from the bracket screws being steel so where showing signs of rust within 24hrs of being installed outside. A case of caveat emptor with these things.
Have you checked the earth wire actually goes to the metal case, rather than dangling loose inside?
B-)
I had seen several reviews mentioning this little problem. So I checked earth continuity. It was OK I think I took the back off as well just to make sure it was firm connection.
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