"idiot proof" final circuit design

[:::Jerry::::]

present

Our old house, built 1901, had the remains of it's first ever electrical supply (installed when the house was built...[1]) still in place under the floor boards - it comprised of bare wire conductors in porcelain 'clamps' / insulators with twisted / soldered connections...

[1] there was also unused gas pipes to wall lights as well, although gas was never installed, AIUI the house was one of the first all electric houses in the town. It was the architects own property so was probably trying out the new technology but hedging his bets at the same time!

[John Rumm]

Personally I fit a switch above the worktop in these cases.

Having said that, one presumes the reason for isolating the appliance is so you can carry out maintenance, and you won't be doing much of that with it in situ either.

Place the lead of the middle appliance over the top of the one beside if youare that bothered by it. It will not be visible under the worktop.

So what you are saying that the actual number of accidents caused by this practice is to all intents and purposes nil, and its cheaper.

What was the problem again?

[John Rumm]

Huh? What is a CU wall plate?

[Doctor Drivel]

You are correct. He hasn't a clue.

[John Rumm]

BS1362 IIRC. Seems like a good time to let Darwin rule. Personally not too fussed about it since the things hardly ever blow anyway so the chances of someone being stupid enough, and having the opportunity to fiddle a small anyway.

No, it is there to protect the circuit, that is all.

If a user wishes to override a safety measure further downstream then that is their look out. You should not be compromising the earlier circuit design (which will impact all users) just to try and protect someone who clearly does not want to be protected.

[John Rumm]

Your point being what though?

[John Rumm]

Not seen a bare wire install before - plenty of lead, rubber and paper covered cables though. Although I would guess most places got electric light a tad later than that.

Could be... just in case this new fangled "electricity" thing never took off perhaps ;-)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

If they need repair or servicing, I'd prefer unplugging them. Call me old fashioned. Otherwise, I'm happy to leave them powered up. And having them wired to an FCU means extra work if they need moving away for any reason. And makes no sense anyway.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'll use an FCU for a fixed appliance - like say a cooker hood. Not for anything that can be moved, like a washing machine.

And cost doesn't even remotely come into the equation in my 'DIY house'. Just the best and most convenient situation. Electrical accessories cost pennies in the scheme of things.

[Rod]

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Dave - you're old fashioned. :-)

But I agree with wanting to unplug.

The issue that gets me is if you go into the kitchen and smell a bit of a burning smell... (Assuming it's not the toast/boiled over milk/iron/your pet horrible smelling burning thing.) At least with an accessible switch you can turn the damn thing off and, hopefully, prevent it getting any worse.

Hence my choice is an FCU and a socket.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Knob and tube wiring was more popular in the US. There are a number of houses with it still in use!

[John Rumm]

Damn, that sounds painful! ;-O)

[:::Jerry::::]

appliance is

No, I suspect many people like to isolate an appliances [1] when not in use or going away etc.

[1] with the exception of fridges and freezers.

round

beside if

worktop.

Nor will it be accessible, isn't there a regulation that says means of isolation needs to be accessible?...

[:::Jerry::::]

Call me

So, an accessible FCU above the worktop and a 3 pin round plug and socket below - but then I forgot, to Dave (and others) cost and ease of installation are the governing factors here....

[:::Jerry::::]

They have a hole for the flex, with a cored-grip and connection terminals on the inside.

Without flex they look like RF wall plates and function like cooker connection plates (although rated less).

[:::Jerry::::]

Well your way seems very *inconvenient* IMO, having to haul out an appliance just to isolate it...

[:::Jerry::::]

very

sheds.

flex,

The poster I replied to seemed to think that as the length of flex on the lamp (OWE) was only one or two meters as supplied, any consideration of longer lengths was silly.

[:::Jerry::::]

although

Indeed, there were other parts of the houses design that seemed to be new to him, all the other 9 houses in the road (designed by him) had stair cases that ran around one or more outside walls allowing the house to have a cellar, our house had an internal (central) stair well and no cellar whilst all houses were built with cavity walls etc.

[:::Jerry::::]

legalised

everyone.

That makes Thatcher a member of the 'polite-burro' (sp?) then....

[Dave Plowman (News)]

And the myriad of things that are normally left powered? Cordless phones. Videos. Clock Radios. Doorbells. Etc.

And all those kitchen appliances with clocks and timers? Think that just about leaves the washing machine that you might switch off at the mains - if you don't trust its own on/off switch. ;-)