I was delighted to get rid of a Baxi Buggerit back boiler and fire and replace it with bookshelves.
Women also seem to object to wiring looms in neat horizontal and vertical runs, but happy to have bibelots in random patterns over every horizontal surface.
While I agree Harry's claim was nonsense I think semi-enclosed fuses to BS3036 are a bit slower than that: AIUI four times the rated current should blow in less than 1 second; twice the rated current in about 100. See eg
I have a fully-populated 12-way plugged into a single socket behind the equipment rack. I've never taken the trouble to work out the loading because it's obviously, as you say, nothing like 13 amps.
I've made all our inaccessible sockets accessible by plugging 4-way (individually switched) trailing extension leads in, and hiding under the offending furniture when not in use. Makes hoovering 10x easier :)
Yes, and the rated lifetime of PVC cable is only 20 years - when run 24/7 a t max load, and at rated ambient temperature. Unsurprisingly, it lasts quit e a lot longer in normal conditions.
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I replaced my old fuse board with a new CU/RCD/MCBS a few years ago. The wi ring was nearly 30 years old, the IR was fine, and there were only two thin gs wrong: a broken ring main CPC, due to a loose terminal in a socket (had probably never been done properly), and the undersized CPC - it was 1mm, wh ich happens to be fine with MCBs, but doesn't satisfy the adiabatic eqn wit h rewirables.
That's the wire. I replaced plenty of socket fascias.
The main reason that rewireables are deprecated for tenanted properties is that they allow the unskilled and otherwise less caring of the properties wellbeing alter the rating of the fuses.
Its 11pm, your tenant has just rang to say they turned the hall light on, and now all the lights have gone out. You have a choice of talking a technically clueless person through:
1) Finding the circuit breaker with the popped out button, and telling them to push it
or
2) pulling out a fuse carrier, finding a screwdriver, finding some fuse wire, get them to work out which is the 5A, now talk them through wiring the carrier (in the dark), and replacing the fuse.
I would contest that 1 is far simpler for all involved.
You have to smile at the mastery of understatement that comes with instructions like:
"Do not use the cable. Discontinue use immediately and return the product to the place of purchase for a full refund or replacement. "
Especially if its been chopped into lots of bits, installed and covered over and to make matters worse you can't easily identify which bits are this stuff, or another unaffected brand.
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