I've got two electric planes, and neither vibrates. They do tend to kick when you switch them on - I'd hope a modern one is soft start.
They are not the easiest of devices to use though. Probably need more skill than a hand plane. And the blades need very careful setting to get a true cut, even with skill.
I have to agree with Dave that electric hand planes are not the easiest of beasts to use especially when you have to operate them in anything other th en their normal operating mode, namely horizontally along a length of wood. The traditional method ie. Andy's dads method or as shown in the wiki or t he Workmate method are fine when using traditional Jack planes but a whole different kettle of fish with an electric planer. As I said In my previous post to do the top and bottom you have to stand astride the door holding it with your knees to stop movement and bent over being at full stretch by th e time you end the stroke. I cannot see anybody advising any one that it is safe to run a power tool parallel to part of your body where one slight lo ss of control means your legs are the next thing it hits. It would be like placing a piece of wood in a Workmate then sitting on the Workmate with you r legs either side of the wood to be planed and proceeding to plane with yo ur electric planer. Likewise clamping the door horizontally to trestles/wor kmates and running the planer at right angles means you do not have full co ntrol of the machine as you have gravity working against you. I am not sayi ng you will not see so called "professionals" doing either but it is foolha rdy to do so. I am no 'elf & safety freak but strongly believe in not putti ng parts of my body in the way of fast turning sharp power tools. If you do not feel you can manage the task with a traditional plane and need to use a power tool than a router is your best bet. All you need is a guide suitab ly offset clamped to the door, a sacrificial piece of wood at the end of th e router traverse and you will get splinter less edges and crucially all yo ur body parts intact. If you have many doors to do then spending a little t ime knocking up a bit of a jig will save time in set up. By all means use a n electric planer for the long edges of the door, but not the top and botto m.
Richard
Providing your legs are long enough you can stand astride it and grip with your knees. Always worked for me.
I've done this, too. You do need a decent inside leg measurement.
harry you can buy a circular saw on screwfix for less than half the price of a workmate it is much much easier to trim door bottoms with a skilsaw than with a plane.clamp or screw or pin a straightedge and run the saw across..the cut will be straight and square
btw if your planer runs as rough as you make out,sling it or get it repaired
steve
In message , Tricky Dicky writes
Wise words. My brother was making a chair, and using an electrical 'thing' to carve out the bum shaped indentation in the seat. Not wearing his usual protective gear, and the tool slipped, hitting his thigh. He said it didn't cut him - it just vapourised the flesh. His wife drove him to the nearby hospital, and he was OK, but now has a large indentation in his thigh just below you know where.
In message , Huge writes
I have two pairs of roof bars in the shed. They are in good condition so I can't possibly chuck them, but they don't fit a modern car, and I know in my heart I'll never, ever use them again. Story of my life. Or my shed.
I bought Thule bars rather than Audi's own (even if those fit direct to the car without using feet) in the hope that they'll fit the next car with a new set of feet. The roofrack is homemade so be slightly larger than an 8x4 sheet.
In message , News writes
My Dad drilled a hole in his arm when I was about 12.
He was disabled - paralysed on the left hand side. Though could just about swing his arm about and hang onto something with it in the crook of his elbow.
We had a climbing frame that needed repairing. He had to stand on the bottom bar to reach, hung on with his arm - drill slipped and straight into his arm. Very painful at the time, but he didn't hit the bone AFAICR, so healed up easily enough
That was my theory.
Some of the rectangular bars to go on the Punto in 1994. I managed to bend one, which was maybe the reason (though can't remember) I got new bars when we also got a Mondeo in 2003.
2014 and a Galaxy replaces the Mondeo, but the Mondeo roof bars were to short IIRC. So knew bars for that (Whispbar ones this time for a change).Having a clearout at the moment, I might just dump the feet and keep the bars. Though I did have an idea of using a pair for making a cycle carrier rack for the top of the trailer.
How about: stand it on the stairs and tie it to the ballustade. then the top of the door can be placed (choose the right step) at a convenient height above 1st floor level and you can keep gravity as your friend.
Robert
Blokes who hang doors for a living may well be able to plane accurately but, for the rest of us, the above really is a no brainer.
In message , RobertL writes
Excellent. Stair wells are always good places for DIY projects. Canoe, anyone?
:-)
Don't know if someone else has suggested this, but when I fitted thick underlay then asked a carpet shop to install carpet for me (it's getting more difficult to do that myself), they brought a special-purpose circular saw designed so that its blade would cut a small amount from under the bottom of the door. Presumably the thing can be rented.
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