What is needed to hang a gate large enough to get a landrover through?
Got some post and rail fencing, which we will just whack in, but we need access for the rover, so a gate has to go in it somewhere...how to support the weght?
Thinking in terms of a deep hole with concrete, but that may not be enough in soggy wet clay..bracing? to what and how?
Are you able to fit wheel on the end of the gate to take the weight?
What about a sliding electric gate?
Not really. Its all grass
No electricity..
This is 100meters from the house as an 'orchard' divider..
We fitted quite a few 12' gates in the soggiest Devon clay you could find. Didn't use any concrete, just used 8' gate posts with 3' underground. When refilling the whole, make sure that the soil is compacted well using a tamper.
Another option would be to sink two gate posts and have two six feet gates. The leverage on the posts will be a lot less. I plan to do exactly this myself later this year.
BMX wheel then? ;-)
Tim
That is not going to go anywhere. Bear in mind that a properly fitted gate only puts the turning moment on the hinge post when it is open. The slam post via the latch should be taking take some of the weight when the gate is closed. If a gate is going to be left open for long periods I'd arrange suuport for it in that position as well. Aside from the posts it is less starin on the gate itself and it's less likely to drop.
That is somewhat intelligent enough for me to wonder how I didn't think of it ;-)
Thx..thats a good un.
Of course, it'll be a bit more of a pain to open if you have to do it regularly. If you're just getting a landy through it's not like you need
12 feet of gate.Pete
The message from "Dave Liquorice" contains these words:
You beat me to it Dave. It makes a huge difference having the latch end of a gate supported both when open or shut. Only trouble is some lazy sod is almost certain to leave the gate unsupported at some time.
The last few gate posts I have planted have been 4" square galvanised steel and as they only go in to a depth of about 27" they don't plant very firmly even when surrounded by concrete. And it takes a fair bit of concrete to fill a shovel diameter hole when the post is only 4" square.
As Grunff suggests the deeper the better, and the bigger the diameter the better as well.
In my experience the traditional five barred farming type gates always drop over time. They can be a real pain for people of slight build to open and close, especially when they are made with thick heavy cattle proof timber. My father has one at the entrance to his farm and my wife cannot lift it to open it.
A pair of smaller gates looks better - less agricultural looking.
For a 9ft wide x 6ft high gateway for twin gates, I had a steel fabricator make up a flat-bottomed U-shape in 4" RSJs. Gate hinge pintles were welded to that, with enough offset for them to be built into the middle of brick piers. The bottom of the U went under the roadway and was concreted in as part of laying that. It hasn't moved in the past 12 years.
Colin Bignell
Manual sliding gate - on rollers on a track.
I wouldn;t say I would need to take a vehicle down there once in every 5 years..but it would be a pain to not be able to,..
we are leaning (ha!) towards a smaller gate in the middle, and a big one that CAN be opened inf necessary, but mostly won't be.
A an engineering solution I can applaud it.
But its a shade overkill for what I have in mind.
To be honest, a removable fence panel would do the trick..
I think if teh gate is supported when closed, and ther is a smaller one, then it isn't going to sag much on the very few occasions it gets opened.
Would what a farmer I know has on low-use field access gateways be suitable? He just uses a couple of lengths of scaffolding pole, about half as long again as the gap, set up like giant draw-bolts. They are supported by a loop either side of the gap and by further loops along the fence, that support the pole as it is drawn back. The extra length is needed to rest in the first loop when the 'gate' is closed. That both helps support the pole as it is first opened and guides it into the next loop as it is drawn back. A loop welded near the opening end acts as a stop in both directions and allows him to padlock it either open or closed.
Colin Bignell
It would suit me FINE but SWMBO insists on proper expensive gates..
Oh well. We have put in the hinge post for the little one. Just went down 2' 6" or so and whacked the clay in with a sledge. when tied to the rails its solid enough for a 4' gate..hinges on order, and BIG gate will have to bloody wait. That's enough heavy physical work for one week. And the weather has gone screwy...can't to the latch post till I have hung the gate and ascertained clearances..
While I think about it, I ordered a spring latch - the sort you move a springy lever across, but cant for the life of me see how the latch works..its a huge staple with a notch in the side..does the spring latch simply slip PAST it and you then need a stop behind?
Or is it something I simply haven't seen?
Just to be sure we are both talking about the same thing have you a URL to some pictures?
In the meantime, the stop is formed by the slam post. The vertical bar of the latch drops into the notch in the staple holding the gate shut. Note there is no support provided for the gate in the closed position by this type of latch.
In message , The Natural Philosopher writes
Sounds like a hunting latch meant to be accessed from horseback.
The gatepost is the stop.
AFAIR the retaining strap for the *springy lever* is arranged to be just above the catch so that it takes the weight when you climb over.
I have never fitted one but I expect you drill pilot holes for the staple and whack it in with a small sledge hammer.
regards
Bugger. So the gate more or less overlaps the slam post..I may have to rejig that somewhat...make a slam post and add it to the gatepost..Mm. That doesn;t work either..What I want is a bracket with a notch in, so we can 'swing both ways' and simply click in the middle.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.