My question is 2 fold (hence the weird framing of it!)
I have a 32 in X 48 in framed mirror that I am trying to install on a
wall which has studs that are about 18 inch apart.I am using 2 1/2 inch
screws to hold the thing on the wall.
1. The eyeholes on the back of the mirror frame are 30 inches apart and
finding matching stud locations is not possible. I tried this and have
ended up spoiling the wall with screw holes that didnt work for me
(till i got the stud finder!!). I was advised on getting a hanging wire
to attach to the back. Does anyone know what kind of wire I should be
2. Once I get this wire how do I attach it to the back of the mirror? I
was told it goes into the eyeholes but its hard for me to comprehend
how it would. Do I have to screw the wire into the back of the frame?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Picture frame wire. Twisted steel. Large enough to support X (insert
mirror weight) pounds plus extra for safety. Get it at a picture
Run the wire across the back of the mirror through each screw eye.
Twist each end around the wire across the back near the respective
screw eye, bring it back through the screw eyes and again twist around
the wire across the back.
Question: what are you going to nail into that stud to hang the
mirror on? It needs to be stout.
Comment: the problem with hanging stuff on wires - particularly from
a single point on the wall is that they never stay hanging straight.
Three ways to combat that...
1. Put matching pieces of velcro on mirror and wall so mirror won't
2. Hang from two suspension points. Yeah, yeah, one stud but you
could hang from molly bolts in the drywall.
3. Use a French cleat. I'll let you Google that.
NEVER, EVER hand anything but a lightweight mirror using a wire.
Buy some D-hooks attack them the same distance from the top or of bottom of
the frame, use toggle bolts to attach a molly hook to the wall for each of
the two hooks. 32x48 is about the largest mirror that can be hung in this
manner safely with a single pair of d-hooks.
Larger mirrors need 2 d-hooks on each side or better yet is to hang them
with a ledger strip.
Plastic wall anchors can hold quite a bit of weight providing you don't
get undersize ones and you make the hole for them (guess 1/4" for what
you are doing) straight and clean. Get good ones that have some bite
grippers to the drywall hole. Put them where the eyeholes are or a good
place for the wire if you go that route.
Not sure if it would be an eyesore for your case or the mirror would hang
wrong but you can put a strip of wood behind the mirror spanning two
studs screwed in at either 16 or 24" on center. All studs are spaced like
this at minimum. Then you can attach the mirror anywhere on the strip.
Home Depot sells a heavy-duty mirror/picture hanger that doesn't need a
stud. It's in the picture-hanger section, OOK brand. It's supposed to be
able to hold 100 pounds or something like that. It uses several, angled
nails into the sheetrock.
We have a reasonably heavy vanity mirror that I've used one of these to hang
for about 5 years now. I was dubious, but since the mirror is probably
closer to 40 pounds and the thing was rated for 100, I decided to try it--
so far so good.
In our old house, I put nails into the studs, which didn't end up where I
wanted the mirror, so I had to put them at different heights so it would
work out and center where I wanted it to. The OOK hanger was sure easier.
As for the person who said "don't use wire" on a heavy mirror -- it can
work, you just need heavy-duty wire. Our mirror is hung with wire, and it's
a thick, twisted piece much, much heavier than standard picture wire
(actually it might be the same stuff, just lots of pieces twisted together).
Your mirror, your house you do what you like.
All the mirrors and big pictures sold today include a warning label saying,
" Do not hang using wire." As a licensed, insured contractor I have to do
thing the absolute best, safest possible way.
When I advise others free of charge even though I may have no legal
obligation to do so I advise them of the safest way to do the job. What
they choose to do with that information is completely their choice.
I'm not denying your way is better. As far as I know, the wire on our
mirror is FROM the manufacturer, though. It's reasonably old (at least 25
years, probably more). Hasn't fallen in all that time, anyway...
If I were sleeping over the thing, I'd probably screw it through the frame
into the studs <grin>
A true story about when I became so passionate on the subject.
Hanging a mirror for a client, I said , "I'm not sure we should hang this
mirror on this wire".
"It hung just fine in my last two houses and in my Grandmother's house
before that", was the reply.
Hung the damn thing, walked into the other room and heard a thud,whap, bang.
The wire broke, the mirror hit the mantle, bounced off, hit the back of a
leather couch and landed on the carpet. Total damage was a scuff mark on
the back of the couch.
Never again will I be that lucky.
Wow! Better to be lucky than good! You must have used up a whole of
luck on that day.
Anyway.......gentlemen, when those of you who are for or against
hanging heavy oblects with "wire"......
Do some of you mean single strand wire? Do some of you mean
multi-strand braided or twisted aire? kind like pseudo-wire rope?
I have no problem using muti-strand steel wire to hand large pictures
or mirrors. As long as the mounting locations & the wire length are
such that large additional forces are not applied to the wire.
I would never use single strand wire.
The fact that some objects come with a mfr's CYA notice really doesn't
hold much water as to whether "wire" is safe or not.
It is just that...... a CYA because the mfr has no control over what
type of wire will be used, what size & how it will be installed.
Multi-stand wire is plenty safe when sized & installed correctly.
On heavy items I use a 2 or 3 hole strap hanger & multistrand wre
I doubt if the mirror in this thread weighs more than 50 pounds so a 2
hole hanger and 100 pound wire (allowable wire capacity) would be more
I like to use coated 1/16" wire rope (aircraft cable)
I'm not sure what you mean by "eyeholes". You need extra heavy-duty eye
screws and you need extra heavy duty braided mirror hanging wire. Ask for
them at a custom picture framing shop or hardware store. You can even get
them to set it all up for you for a little more (frame shot maybe not
Anyway on the stile portion of the mirror frame, the vertical framing part,
mark two spots 1/3 of the way down from the top, screw in the eye screws.
Never use the top rail of the frame! The weight of the mirror can separate
the body of the mirror and frame from the rail dropping it to the floor.
Push the braided wire through the eye slot, then back around and through a
second time. Leave about three to four inches of excess wire. Twist the
excess wire end around the long part of the wire, around and around until
you use up all the wire. Tape the last remaining end to keep it from coming
Now pull it to the other side and cut it from the roll or length leaving 5
to six inches excess. Push the wire through the second eye screw as you did
the first side. You can pull it up taut or slightly loose. Years ago with
12 foot ceilings they put chains on pictures, and hung them from picture
railings to avoid holes in the wall. They hung pictures HIGH so the chains
would be loose allowing the picture to hang at an angle for viewing from
below. During these times matting was done wider at the bottom than top and
sides because of an optical illusion created by the slanted image.
Today, pictures and mirrors are usually mounted lower and with less angle.
The matting needs no extra weight at the bottom for a picture clinging
tightly to the wall, but decorators sometimes follow the old fashion because
they were so taught by the ancient ones and they do not have the courage to
move into newer ways themselves....or they just like the old ways. The
optical illusion of a tightly hung picture...has become a mental illusion
inherited from the past.
So pull the wire taut or loose as is your taste on the second eyehook. Run
the wire over and around and then one more time just like the other side.
Cut the excess and wrap....then tape...just like the other side.
How to fasten: You can use any number of patented wall fasteners including
the anchors. From the picture framing shop or hardware store where you got
the wire, get heavy duty wall fasteners. Don't worry about the stud. Get
the kind that has a nail that runs through a metal hook. The nail goes into
the wall at a slant. This gives 1/2 drywall the strength of 3/4 drywall
because the nail travels at a bias through 3/4 inches instead of 1/2 inch.
SECRET: Use two hangers six to twelve inches apart. Now you spread the
weight over two areas instead of one..........AND..........you have two
pivot points...both level instead of one. Your mirror will stay straight
once you hang it and straighten it. Using one hanger will cause you to
forever be straightening your mirror of picture. ALWAYS use two...not one
If you feel the wire is too small for your mirror........use two hanger
wires, one an inch or so below the other and slightly longer so that the
weight is distributed as equally as possible over the two wires.
Final Test: Observe when you lift the wire after you have installed it. If
the stiles of the frame holding the eyehooks move disportionately to the
rails (Wiggle under the weight) then your frame is insufficient for the load
of your mirror. Take out the screw eyes, add a 1/4 inch backboard to the
backside of your mirror. Use screws. Now put your eye screws back close to
where they were the first time. Using this method even a thin frame can
frame a heavy mirror, since mostly it is the plywood holding the mirror.
Randy R. Cox
Randy R. Cox
On 1 Oct 2006 12:57:46 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Most general stores and many supermarkets sell little packets
of stranded picture-wire with mounting hardware. Those have
diagrams and directions.
But I wouldn't do it that way. For heavy objects on a wall, you're
better off with wall-cleats.
Use 1x2s or 1x3s the full width of the mirror, attached wherever
there are studs, with a bevel forming a trench against the all.
Attach matching cleats in to the (in this case, mirror) only
If you're in an earthquake zone, you can drill vertically
through the cleats and put a pin (a 16d duplex scaffold
nail works well) through both brackets, to keep the thing
from bouncing loose.
Note that the cleats keep your object 3/4s of an inch away
from the wall. *I* don't consider this a problem.
If you do, you can fill the gap with more 1x2s, and use
the resulting hidden space to hide your propaganda leaflets.
My friend is an interior designer and deals with hanging a lot of the time, she made a blogposts and I came across this and though it might help you (or anyone looking for more info on hanging)
Hopefully this helps!
On Sunday, 1 October 2006 20:57:46 UTC+1, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
to Joanne, thanks for the URL and info
to the OP, [music group]
wires purchaseable at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes
run through the eye loop holes TWICE, if possible. and twist together for
at least six inches with more than 4 twists per inch. Gently, else sharp
edges can cut into the wire, weakening it.
How long? that gets a bit tricky, too long and you can see the problem,
too short and after you hang the mirror the tension pulling can rip out
the eyelets, seriously.
My rule of thumb is never less than 30 degrees and try to be more like 45
degrees, which is equal up for distance across. like the diagonal line on
a square box, equal up for equal sideways.
Next I have always successfully used the studs, although they NEVER line
up where they should be, but using two 'hook' type structures on the wall
and close enough to where the eyelets on the mirror are, should be ok.
AFTER hanging, level the mirror by sliding a bit from side to side [I
know, the mirror doesn't quite end up where you wanted it, but can be
close enough to work out] and use a thin foam backing tape along the lower
backside of the mirror. The friction will keep the mirror in place
although all the 'hanging' stuff behind the mirror is wonky because
nothing ever lines up right.
And, for cleaning the mirror? Get a spray bottle, fill with distilled
water, simply spray the mirror, squeegee off the water, repeat and DONE.
W'ere talking less than 40 seconds to clean a splattered bathroom mirror.
Excess water bother you? Buy CHEAP paper towels to blot up excess water,
don't even wipe out in the middle, unless absolutely have to. Why cheap?
expensive' towels have additives that will sreak the surface! How to check
to see if there are additives in your towels. Soak it in bleach, if gets
HOT towel has additives. Example, Bounty will almost burn you.
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