Fxed at last! My Wallstar 15/20 oil boiler is now working properly

With the original spec DKO970 control box fitted (a new one, not the actual original unit that was fitted when the boiler was brand new 9 years ago) we noticed that the fire valve was letting air in, tiny amounts, tiny bubbles, every now and again. The transparent tube was full for a while, then a few minutes later there'd be tiny little bubbles appearing just where the tube is connected to the fire valve and soon the entire tube was practically all air, the burner was puffing like Puffing Billy and sending out puffs of smoke, whereupon the engineer said "That's going to lock ou!" and lock out it did. Then after locking out and reset pressed, the fuel started flowing again, after a fashion, allowing the boiler to fire again, and this just went on and on: Run for a few minutes -- air bubbles -- lockout -- recover.

However, the DKO970 seems much more sensitive than the TF 832.3 and made valiant attempts to let the boiler fire, but kept on locking out every few seconds. It was this that helped diagnose the fundamental problem.

The engineer said it absolutely should NOT be like that, so he fitted a new fire valve and pump. The old pump, well you cannot believe how shagged it was. He got me to turn the shaft and it wasn't just tight at one spot, it was practically rock solid! I held the pump in one hand and turned the shaft with my other hand and I really had to wrench the shaft past its tight spot. Bloody awful. I reckon the pump bearings must have been running hot with a tight spot like that, although how the motor and capacitor ever managed to start the pump turning, beats me. But start it did. I reckon the problem was compounded by the combination of the tight spot and the fire valve leaking in air. Somehow, the pump and control gubbins made every attempt to run, but that tight spot would nearly always be where the pump came to rest when the boiler switched off.

He reckons that if the pump has been sucking air over several months, even a year, it was pretty soon f***ed. The old fire valve was totally shagged. Sucking on the "to pump" side of it (as if siphoning), one could barely get anything through it. So maybe the pump, as the problem worsened -- remember how I said it started in July then got steadily worse, so that by October the lockouts were happening practically every day? -- had been trying its damndest to suck oil and so when air got in instead (through the duff fire valve) the pump somehow kept going, but was literally pumping itself into an early grave. With lack of a constant flow of fuel to lubricate itself, the bearings started running hot and the tight spot developed.

As for the other parts fitted (motor, solenoid, photocell, oh, well, at least they're not going to wear out any time soon! I'm just pleased to have a working boiler again at long last. Of course, in hindsight we should have checked the pump FIRST, but since it was only three years old, we assumed it must be okay.

My engineer and I have come to an amicable arrangement which involves draining and power flushing the system in the Spring and putting new inhibitor in.

MM

Reply to
MM
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If the pump shaft was worn, maybe air was being sucked in there. New one on me though.

Reply to
harry

If the pump shaft was worn, maybe the air was being sucked in there. New one on me though.

Reply to
harry

Three years? One might ask if there is something else making the flow less than good making the pump die early? I hate oil heating. I remember it at a place I stayed once, seemed to be always on the blink.. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

like a gunged up tank filter?

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

Well, maybe through that route as well. But the fire valve was deffo shagged.

MM

Reply to
MM

Yes, the air. If the pump was sucking in air bubbles intermittently via the fire valve over a period of months, that could place severe strain on the bearings if not properly lubricated. It may even have been the case that the pump shaft was constantly coming to a stop "dry" when the oil flow temporarily ceased and the boiler locked out, thus causing excessive wear on the bearings.

Well, yes, *now* I know! I lived with gas down south before moving up here and the boiler ran for 23 years with never more than a thermocouple every two - three years.

However, I asked the heating engineer whether it would be worth switching to Calor Gas (there is no mains gas here), and he said absolutely not. Heating oil has a far higher calorific value than propane, pound for pound.

MM

Reply to
MM

Hardly. It was checked at the last service in March and checked again this time. 'Twas the fire valve that was the culprit. The pump desperately tried to keep going, sucked air intermittently, the pump bearings overheated, the tight spot developed, thus giving rise to the problem steadily worsening since July. Mweanwhile the capacitor started giving up the ghost trying to start the pump across the tight spot. Mostly, up to around October, the pump did start, but then increasingly it failed to, and the lockouts occurred.

MM

Reply to
MM

Pleased it's going, and you've got a few spares !!

Reply to
Allan Mac

Ours is fine, it's let us down twice in 12 years. Once was water freezing in a low point in the supply line. Once was a sooted up photo cell. Certainly seems more reliable than these highly complex and thus unreliable gas condenser/combi jobbies, far more queries about bust gas boilers in here than bust oil boilers... B-)

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Did I not suggest a complete strip down and check of flow for the entire oil line a while back? That would have picked up the blocked fire valve...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

That's quite poor, my gas boiler has had one failure in 32 years. The gas valve stopped opening so it wouldn't fire.

Reply to
dennis

Hindsight is a wunnerful thang!

MM

Reply to
MM

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