Fitting a wooden handle to a file

[Dave Osborne]

Hi,

I've just bought a 4" file with a separate 3" wooden handle.

When I push the file into the handle by hand, it goes in about 10mm before jamming up. I suspect that the hole in the handle is the right size for needle files and too small for the tang on the file I have.

I'm thinking I should drill the handle out a bit for about half the length of the tang, so the hole is "stepped".

however, someone in the pub mentioned the idea of "burning" the tang into the handle, but it seems to me that heating the file might affect it's hardness.

I've googled for help, but haven't found anything useful. I'm reluctant to just hammer the handle onto the file in case the file shatters or the handle splits.

Any advice or comments welcome. Rumble

[Bob Minchin]

NEVER hammer a file into a handle. Drilling out is Ok if you must but normally you insert the tang in by hand and then strike the rounded end of the handle on a hard surface a few times. the inertia of the file will drive the handle on. If it works loose in use then just repeat the above.

Heating will not affect the business end of the file as the tang should be soft.

hth

Bob

[Jules]

JOOI, why do files lack any kind of useful way of securely attaching a handle? I keep finding ones with split handles or ones where the handle just keeps falling off due to wear; why aren't files equipped with a hole (say) for pinning the handle into place - or one of many other possible fixing methods?

I assume they're designed that way for a reason...

cheers

Jules

[David in Normandy]

I think you should contact the manufacturer and file a complaint. ;-)

[mike]

Yeah, it's a bastard when the handle falls off.

[Andy Dingley]

Easiest way is to use "Python" handles - wooden handles with an internal steel spring. Easy to fit and solid (so long as your file tangs are straight and the correct taper)

Avoid plastic handles - they're nasty and always wobble.

Danish oil is a good finish for wooden file handles.

Very hard to do accurately.

Yes. Traditional way.

Wrap the file in leather or cardboard and clamp it upright in a vice, with the toe resting firmly on the shank of the vice.

Heat the tip of the tang until it just thinks about glowing. Quickly plunge the handle over this and hold it there while it burns in. Remove it quickly, before it jams. Don't stab your hand into a red- hot file tang, it makes you feel a right eejit.

Repeat. Half dozen times. Heating is easier than hammering.

When it fits, drive the handle properly home. Use a mallet, not a hammer. Only do this if the file is securely anchored against flying sideways, and the teeth won't get munched. If you don't have a big enough vice with a flat shank, hold the file loosely in a gloved hand instead and wallop downwards against a log-end or previously abused benchtop.

If you burned it enough, you won't split it.

[Dave Osborne]

OK, thanks for that Andy - I might give it a go next time.

I couldn't wait, so I drilled out the handle with a step (3.5mm all the way then 4.5mm half way, if you're interested) and then "[held] the file loosely in a gloved hand and wallop[ed] downwards against a [...] previously abused benchtop." ;-)

So far, so good.

[Corporal Jones]

Nice one but they would think of you as a bit of a BASTARD to FILE a complaint

If you buy a decent handle with a metal ferrule (I know hard to come by these days but try a proper tool merchant, the sheds are a waste of time) and one that is the right size for the tang just insert it and holding the file bang it a few times on a solid surface.

As a 16 year old apprentice I tried to take a short cut and used a metal hammer to bang it in, learnt my lesson by sitting in A&E for hours to have the shard removed from my eye, thankfully no permanent damage.

You can also buy plastic handles with a gripping mechanism but a bugger to remove if like me you have more files than handles and swop them about.

[Bob Eager]

LOL! That remark has the tang of long experience...

[Steve Firth]

The correct technique is to hold the handle, with the file vertical then bang it down sharply onto something solid (anvil, rear of the bench vice, work bench if it's a proper one and not the wobbly crap sold in sheds.

The next trick you need to learn is how to get the handle off.

[The Medway Handyman]

Good point. You wouldn't buy a screwdriver or chisel like that would you? Why files?

Why don't they all have moulded plastic handles?

[David in Normandy]

Without handles, they take up less space and are easier to file away. :-)

[The Medway Handyman]

[Dave Osborne]

Seriously, I think the reason files don't come with handles is because from an industry point of view files are consumable. They become blunt and, as they can't practically be resharpened, they get discarded. The handle could, however, last a lifetime...

[Andy Dingley]

Yeah, drove the guy to casualty after that one.

It's OK if the handle is already "almost on". If you're starting though, especially if you didn't burn it enough, and then you slip; the file tips sideways the handle misses and you spike your hand on the tang.

[Steve Firth]

One would have to be a bit of plank to c*ck up like that.

I think it's about time they started to teach metalwork in schools, again.

[Dave Baker]

If the handle is the right size for the tang it should go on about 1/2 to

3/4 of the way before needing tapping home. The way to do that is place the handle end downwards on a wooden surface and tap the end of the file with another block of wood. You don't do it by holding the handle and banging the end of the file on a wooden surface. That's a good recipe for the handle coming off on the upstroke and you impaling your hand on the tang on the downstroke before the file has fallen over. At a pinch you can hold the file with a gloved hand and bang the handle downwards on a wooden surface. Golden rule though is never strike towards the tang with your bare hand.

If the handle doesn't go on far enough to start with then yes you can drill it out a bit more. The handles are made from soft wood though so they usually deform enough to let the tang seat fully.

[TheOldFellow]

That's what I'd do, but a proper taper reamer does a better job.

must try this, it's a good idea. You could always file up a bit of metal as a burning tool to avoid drawing the temper on the file. But the tang should be dead soft anyway - just don't quench it when it's hot.

don't do that whatever! not under any circumstances.

I always make my own handles from Ash with a bit of brass or copper pipe as a ferrule - they are fun to turn too. You need a taper reamer to get the right round hole, then the edges of the rectangular tang grip well when the handle is banged on (bang handle on bench - no hammer allowed). Any tendency to waggle in the short dimension, then use wedges to centre the tang.

I never make the handle fully round, it always has a flat on one side so that it doesn't roll. Same with great old chisels bought at car boot sales, a good grind and a new handle, better than the new ones.

Every new hand tool needs fettling. I would resist buying files with moulded handles, but that's me.

R.

[dennis]

Some people prefer small handles and some large handles.

[Andy Dingley]

There are two problems with this method:

• Firstly there _are_ planks in circulation. You have to organise a workshop to keep them moderately safe too.

• Secondly it doesn't work too well. _Use_ the inertia of the heavy file, so bang the file into the stationary handle instead, or knock the light handle onto the heavy file. Bashing a heavy file up and down against a bench whilst hoping the lightweight handle decides to go on tighter is somewhat contra-Newton.