Does anybody know anything about Dishwashers?
My Neff S5555 isn't cleaning things properly in the top tray. The arms aren't blocked and spin freely by hand; the water fill and heating are OK.
During a wash the top arm seems to be in the same position so I doubt that water is reaching it (but the feed pipe from the pump is clear).
- Is there a valve that controls water flow to the top basket? If so, how do I get to it?
- Are there any parts or assembly drawings available anywhere?
Dave
What's the problem? Is it down to gritty residues left in glasses? If so it could be a rinsing (rather than top basket) problem.
Not in any machine I've come across. The only problems have arisen from it being obstructed by an item poking down through the basket from above.
This, I don't know.
DG
My old Zanussi used to do this. The top spray arm would fail to rotate yet there seemed to be plenty of water coming out of the jets in it. Sometimes it would get clogged with something in one of the holes on the spray arm and this seemed to be enough to stop it rotating. See if you can unscrew it from its mounting and check if a small piece of plastic or something has got inside.
Chris
My Bosch developed a habit of doing this with the top spray arm. Cleaning everything made no difference.
In the end, I defeated the door interlock, and ran it with the door ajar for a moment and got wet. However, the problem revealed itself:
The top arm was a sloppy fit on the axle. Plenty of water was being pumped to the arm, but half of it came out of the axle "bearing", which was fine in that it washed the lower basket. The upper arm jets did produce a decent spray, but at reduced pressure, and it seemed that the angled jets on the ends that are supposed to produce jets with a lateral component to spin the arms, well, weren't. Water came out, but nearly vertically - not enough horizontal component.
So, I drilled two 3mm holes in the side of the arm near both ends of the upper arm and the problem is solved.
So, I reckon it was a design fault, but easily solved...
Cheers
Tim
Thanks Tim, that was it and the same solution worked!
I found a way of avoiding getting too wet - remove the bottom arm and put an inverted bowl over the pump outlet.
Now to mop the kitchen and change into dry clothes!
Dave
Nothing stuck, but a couple of new "turbo boost" holes in the sides of the arm have fixed it. Thanks.
Dave
Problem: grit and small bits of gunge stuck to lots of things in top basket (not everything). Having run it with the door open it seems that there is a diverter valve (with about a 5 second top/bottom cycle) but that it was working OK. Problem looks like just wear on top arm pivot, a couple of new "boost" holes in the side of the arm have fixed it.
Dave
It might be worth your while getting hold of a copy of the Hayne's 'Dishwasher Repair Manual' - it covers absolutely everything to do with them including how they work, common faults, fixing etc. The lot.
Mathew
Great, thanks!
Dave
You work fast! Would it be a good time to to mention that when I defeated the interlock on the Bosch, I had to disassemble the door to reset it (warning to other Bosch owners who are thinking of trying this).
Glad it worked - I wonder why the angled jets weren't made with more of an angle to start with... Mine wore out after about 2 years...
Cheers
Tim
I think that in line with most products these days, the designers as such are poorly paid, and know naff all about it and care less.
Products are designed to sell, not to work. At least not beyond the warranty period.
Apart from Miele, that is at best 18 months or 2 years.
There is no reason that decent bearings, proper design of seals etc and well made motors should not be able to give a 10 year plus service life.
But no one is interested in paying for it, it seems.
Fast but wet! I got the door switch back into the off (=door open) position by hooking a loop of wire behind it and pulling.
Dave
That does seem to be par for the course these days. I do have a Miele washing machine and hoover and both exceeded my expectations, which is saying a lot. Quite pleasant to see some attention to detail for a change. But, heck, does it cost. Having said that, both products will probably see out 2-3 replacements of cheaper version products, so it all costs the same in the end, and the bonus is the device does it's job better than the cheaper competitors, not to mention the saving to the environment.
I haven't found Bosch Logixx (high end of their range) bad - I have a tumble dryer and a dishwasher from that series, and the only jip I've had is the dishwasher spray arm problem plus the dishwasher blew a water valve coil early on, which was dealt with under warranty without issue.
Talking of which, slashdot's been carrying various articles about Gigabyte boasting about using solid capacitors on some of their mobos for longevity. Apparantly, the people were having grief with electrolytics blowing after
3-4 years - which seemed strange as I've had 20 year old hot running electronics (amplifiers and TVs for example) which managed to not exhibit that problem. More likely some berk bought a load of cheap crap caps for some production runs and got the electrolytics a bad name, so maketing stepped in and made a "feature" of the whole debacle.Cheers
Tim
Heh. Hope you added powder and cleaned the kitchen - bonus points from the missus(!)
Yeah, I tried a similar approach, but the Bosch's catch is a strong sod when latched and there was no moving it without getting at the gubbins. Quite interesting to see how much stuff is packed inside the door :)
Cheers
Tim
There was a well known capacitor fiasco a few years ago, wheer (AFAIR) there was some faulty 'cloning' of a manufacturer's products. The faulty items went into *many* motherboards. They may or may not have been electrolytic, but 'faulty caps' is probably a good bit of propaganda now.
They were electrolytics. A Chinese company stole the formula for the electrolite from a Taiwanise manufacturer, and churned out millions of the things. These were bought by many motherboard manufacturers. However, the formula stolen was one which turned out not to work and was not used by the Taiwanise manufacturer.
The manufacturers who bought the faulty electrolytics have been faced with repairing or replacing motherboards. Dell were in our office on almost a weekly basis replacing motherboards at a previous employer.
That's it...all coming back to me now...interesting to see how it's been turned into a marketing opportunity!
The only machine I had fail was the Dell in my office at work. We have so many Dells that we kept a stock of motherboards, and it was changed within an hour of me going in and finding a dead machine.
Precisely.
When we designed mil spec equipment, we used very underatted components so the whole kit would work at 100C or more..and tantalum capacitors, which could also stand the heat. They had MTBF's up in the 10-20 year mark.
They did cost pounds rather than pence tho.
I've been investigating part for a gearbox too..do you want nylon, glass fiber or kevlar belts sir? do you want alloy, nylon or polycarbonate pulleys sir? Do you want precision ground stainless steel fully sealed ball races? Or cheap corrosive un shielded one's sir?
Your shafts..precision ground stainless hard steel? Or a bit of mild steel that will bend?
Your motor..the cheap one with the bent bronze brushes and the ferrite magnets, or the one with massive brushes, cobalt magnets and proper springs that costs ten times as much?
There are plenty of 50 year old plus aircraft still flying..and making money too.
How come a piece of domestic equipment is trash in 18 months?
The Natural Philosopher wrote: > I've been investigating part for a gearbox too..do you want nylon, glass
You've just explained it - pick just one way to save cost so you can undercut the opposition by a few quid. Add competition. Repeat until everyone turns out junk.
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