damp round windows

[EnterYourName]

As the winter draws in, the windows are always damp with condensation in the morning, and I have noticed that the wall paper closest to the windows is also damp and turning black in places. When I peal the wall paper back I see the plaster is also damp. I imagine this is due to the fact that when walls were last decorated the plaster was touching the windows frame, and the condensation now seeps into the plaster which makes the wall paper damp etc etc? I have also noticed that there is a sealant placed on top of the wall paper where the paper touched the windows frame to make a tidy joint I would imagine.

My question is How should the windows be correctly finished with respect to the inside of the windows where the window frame meets the wall and plaster. Many Thanks

[The Natural Philosopher]

What sort of windows, with what sort of frames?

I've seen this on old 50's steel framed single glazed Crittal windows, but not since.. also, on blockwork cavity houses, a window alcove forms a cold bridge..

[Dave Liquorice]

Just plastered against the frame. You simply have normal condenstation, increase ventilation and/or room temperature.

[EnterYourName]

Aluminium frames, double glazed sealed units possibly 15 years + old. The house is a 1960 cavity house.

[EnterYourName]

The room temperature is approx 18 degrees Any hotter is uncomfortable. How do i increase ventilation ?? leavings a windows open (even slightly appears to remove the advantages of windows ??). There are not in built ventilation slots in the windows.

Each morning the windows are wet not just steamed up.

[Dave Liquorice]

Quite agree on the rrom temp but one would assume you have curtains, the air between curtain and window will be considerably cooler. The metal frames won't help but there isn't a lot you can do about that.

Don't fully close any curtains? or door(s) to the room(s). I trust that extractor fans are used in wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms.

[EnterYourName]

Bit tricky with the curtains, as there closed to stop the external light entering the room at night, then opened in the morning.

Apart from that the door are open all day, and fans are used in the wet areas.

[Clot]

The fans might be aggravating things bringing more moisture laden air to the cold surface. Are these windows on east or north facing walls?

I mentioned in an earlier thread that I suffered condensation problems in my house with cavity wall insulated and double glazed (timber) windows. Installing a dehumidifier resolved the issue for me.

see "Oue house is damp"

[EnterYourName]

The windows direction is North , East and South, however the north facing ones are usually worse.

[Derek Geldard]

To be honest it all figures.

Get window catches that let you shut (Lock ?) the windows 7-10 mm open.

We've done it and the loss of heat through the night, this time of year is minimal.

Fresh air is good for the soul (if bad for the temperament).

Derek

[The Natural Philosopher]

if the glass is wet then the DG has probably failed.

[Dave Liquorice]

Naw we get condesation on the new (22mm gap) DG windows here. Not a lot just the bottom 1/2" at most on each pane, The older 6mm gap stuff in the kitchen will run with water when cooking pasta and that's with the cooker hood on.

[EnterYourName]

what does DG stand for Damp Gap ??? Is the the gas between the two sealed windows ???

[safety]

Dave is dead right You just have condensation

If you sleep in an hermetically sealed room you will get it. Consider: trickle vent installation via any timber sill or element or, failing that, the adjacent masonry. this is better than a catch on the window and allows the partial pressures to equalise

better still install a dehumidifier somewhere in the house and keep the bedroom door open

take all the "normal" measures against condensation - lids on pans, no washing hung out, dry heating, etc consider increasing dew point with thin insulating wall "paper" use condensation paint to control mould growth keep the air circulating insulate cold bridges eg in your windows - cut away the plaster and put in foam for the gap between masonry and window and skim over 1mm on the surface avoid all water making sources as much as practicable

Chris

[Dave Liquorice]

Double Glazing

I don't think the glass would be able to take the pressure if there wasn't, they flex quite a bit in the wind as it is. Yes, these are all still sealed units, no water vapour in the gap.

[NT]

Either ventilate, which will cost in heat loss, or use a dehumidifier, which costs less in the long run

Or if you're doing something to cause excess damp, such as drying clothes in the room, not doing so might prove enough.

NT

[EnterYourName]

thanks for all the tips, can i assume than simply replaceing the windows with the latest 12m DG in upvc will do nothing and if a sales man says it will then he lying....

[NT]

replacing them isn't a sensible solution imho.

NT

[Dave Liquorice]

IIRC you already have DG but in metal frames. There might be some improvement in going to 22mm gap DG and plastic but not a great deal. Assuming that the metal frames have double seals and decent gapped glazing. It probably wouldn't do much for the condensation problem.