That's odd, my 1977 Ideal Standard floor stander was 55%.
76% for a 1973 model sounds a remarkable feat of engineering.In 1973 with big flares, collars and lapels...wastage was a way of life.
That's odd, my 1977 Ideal Standard floor stander was 55%.
76% for a 1973 model sounds a remarkable feat of engineering.In 1973 with big flares, collars and lapels...wastage was a way of life.
Input, 24.3KW Output, 18.5KW To water, 17.6KW To local ambient, 0.9KW
Or, another model
Input, 123KW Output, 96KW To water, 28.3KW To local ambient, 1.8KW Efficiency, 78%
Regards Capitol
Is that the same as flooding foundations through faulty jointing of plastic pipes with a hacksaw rather than spending pennies on the correct tool?
Think we should be told.
BTW, I must have asked a hundred times for your advice on servicing a boiler, safety wise. With no reply.
Others will draw their own conclusions.
Yup. Of course a modern boiler might well have a lower water capacity heat exchanger and be made of a lower thermal mass body than a dino one. As I'd expect. So like for like will heat up quicker. But that's got nothing to do with whether it's a condenser or not.
Except that these are raw, optimum figures, not seasonally adjusted as are used today.
Those sound like bench efficiencies running at full load. The SEDBUK efficiency formulae take account of the boiler running at 30% load which for an old non-modulating CI boiler will result in it only firing intermittently. When it switches off loads of heat stored in the heat exchanger vanishes up the flue, and when it comes back on all that CI has to be brought back up to temperature.
In terms of the total thermal mass of the heating system the variation to mass contribution between high and low water content boilers will be three quarters of sod-all. Whilst it exists, I think noticing the difference would require very close study. Of course there is nothing like the human mind for impressibility, especially after spending lots of money
Flooding foundations has nothing to do with boiler services.
Are you foreign?
Except that the old non modulating boiler would have been sized to the house to avoid excessive cycling (i.e. typically 10kW or 12kW ), whilst the new modulating boiler needs no such treatment and will probably be a 28kW off the shelf.
Modulating matters because you can (and do) install a much larger output boiler.
Christian.
Which re-heats a quick recovery cylinder in no time, and a "very" fast warm up of the CH too.
It would have been sized to suit all but the coldest winter day, 18C inside and -1 outside or whatever, whilst for half the heating season the required heat is half this.
Indeed. However, they couldn't do what is common practice now and size to 3 times the maximum required, as this would have led to a grossly inefficient system.
Chrtistian.
Whilst your assertation is correct the thread made no mention of increasing the rating of the new boiler (and this may need a larger gas pipe).
Indeed. However I would guess that almost all condensing boiler installations do considerably uprate the boiler power. So whilst it may be a function of modern boiler's modulating capacity, rather than its condensing nature, people replacing old boilers with condensing types are likely to see much more rapid heating of the primary water circuit (and hence their radiators).
Christian.
Trouble is that the seasonally adjusted ones are all very well, but don't tell the true story as regards running costs. Most would expect a 100% efficient boiler to use exactly half the amount of gas of a 50% one. But once you introduce fiddle factors like seasonal adjustment things become murky for the average punter trying to work out whether replacement of an otherwise serviceable boiler is economic - and that's before the high failure rate of expensive electronic components necessary for high efficiency boilers is factored in.
When did being on topic ever concern you?
It obviously doesn't concern you. His condition is past the point of no return.
By the book in order for the system to comply with Part L of the BRs the size of the boiler should be chosen to suit the property. This means using a simplifed heat loss calculator and sizing the boiler according to the results.
I argued (as I am wont to do) with the course tutor on the C&G 6083 course (which central heating installers are now required to have). My assertion was that the calculations are only _part_ of the choice for boiler sizing and should be taken in to account with what is already installed and how well or otherwise it was working, together with experience of what works. The tutor (or rather the course syllabus) wanted us to always sart from scratch.
There is a defined SEDBUK procedure which will give a better picture but not completely accurate one for a given scenario. However, it is the same, so that for comparison purposes between products of similar spec. is reasonable.
Reliability is a matter of engineering design and component and manufacturing quality. If you pay little, don't be surprised to get crap. If you pay a lot and don't get good quality, apply boot to supplier's backside.
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