combi vs conventional

There are a few of these heaters around. Reding make a few, I thing even Screwfix a few too. Install it in the draw-off. make sure it has an adjustable throttle, so it can be opened up.

Reply to
IMM
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As for being a lazy "bustard" (whatever that is) - perhaps you missed the point. I don't need to purchase a boiler right now - did that a couple of months back. Hence I have no need to go researching boilers right now. There may be some people reading this group who do however - perhaps you could help them - or does that go against your principles?

Lots of people give you pointers - do you take them up? ;-)

As it happens I am sure most people realise that there are better flow rate combi's available at a price. Some of us have installed one of these as well. We also realised however that they are not appropriate for all situations, and also that the phrase "high flowrate" is a relative term. Perhaps "high flow rate for a combi - or about as good as you get with a low end stored water system" would be more accurate. To don blinkers and state there are no disadvantages to combi's only helps reinforce the image of someone led by dogma with no real understanding of the issues involved.

Reply to
John Rumm

I suspect he tends to stimulate himself...

Reply to
John Rumm
< snip drivel froma Rum Bugger (whatever that means>

No. wrong.

Reply to
IMM

OK, I've had a look at the data sheets for a number of these. They seem to have a few common factors:

  • They require a minimum of a 40A circuit.
  • They have small inlet and outlet size (3/8" seems typical)
  • They all recommend "spray taps" and most say they are not suitable for baths, however it seems that they can supply a shower.

When you say to install in the draw-off, I assume you are meanng that I should install it so that all of the hot water that is normally heated by the combi flows through the electric heater (turned off normally!). I can see that this would produce the desired result, but am concerned that the small bore of the inlet and outlet pipes of the electric heater would restrict the flow. Is this the best way to go, or should I fit it in some other way.

I assume that normal taps will work with the electric heater, but maybe I won't get the hottest water possible in this case (or should I fit spray taps and use them all the time?).

A 40A circuit seems a lot, is there a lower power option?

Reply to
Matt Beard

But a 50 percent less chance of loosing both hot water and heating at the same time, IIRC it's called something like 'redundancy', I just wish someone could make you redundant from Usenet!..

Reply to
...Jerry...

With a combi, there is no wiring.

How does the thing work then ?!

Reply to
...Jerry...

Only if you did the installation I suspect.

Reply to
...Jerry...

There are models aroud with 15mm connections.

Spray, or aerated, tap are advisable for all installations as they use less water. They are the normal in most of Europe, except in backward Britain.

Yes.

You may only want to fix it on a section of the draw-off that does not require a large flow: kitchen and basin for e,g. Larger bores are available.

You could fit it in parallel and have a manual 3-way valve that diverts the flow to the taps or through the install heater.

Depends on what you require as backup. You could have a higher flow storage heater on the inlet to the combi. Then only cold water is in and out when off. When combi is down and on, it heats the water and it runs through the plate heat exchanger of the combi doing no harm. It will not have a great amount of water in it. An electric storage heater requires a smaller supply too.

That is so. The temperature will be fine, but flow not as great. It is for backup only.

Electric storage heater as above.

Reply to
IMM

How do you work that out, unless you only read the marketing blurb, a bowl full of water etc. is still a bowl full of water - the only difference is that it's taken longer to fill from either a spray or aerated tap.

Most of Europe is backwards were plumbing (and electrical) installations are concerned from what I've seen....

Reply to
...Jerry...

And who can't tell the difference between a bird and a fatherless child.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

He is redundant, but like most parasites, he dosn't immdiately die because of that fact.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Is it OK to restrict the output of the combi to a 15mm pipe then, I would have thought that this would limit the flow rate.

Sounds interesting... I guess they don't use them on the bath though.

I'm still concerned about restricting the flow though.

Hmm, This would need some careful planning. Perhaps split the output of the combi into 1 x 22mm and 1 x 15mm. Take the 15mm through the electric backup heater and on to the kitchen and all sink taps. The 22mm can co to the bath taps (giving good flow, but not working in backup mode - which is OK because the electric heater will not do a bath anyway). What about the shower, should this be in the high-flow-no-backup or the low-flow-with-backup? I would prefer a high flow shower, but I don't like the idea of being without either bath or shower if anything were to go wrong with the boiler.

Sounds maybe even better, but wouldn't this be a complicated little set of pipework? I tried to sketch it out, but it starts looking like an oil refinery!!

Also sounds like a possible option, but I don't understand the benefit of fitting instant on the output, but stored on the input.

Is this like a small water cylinder with an immersion heater, or something more like a heatbank?

Reply to
Matt Beard

Prove it! - post the makes/model numbers.

(and I don't mean things like the Alpha CB50 which is really a stored water system in disguise)

Reply to
John Rumm

Most combi's have a 15mm connection.

They do.

15mm on both legs.

Have the shower and sink go through the electric heater, then hot water at kitchen and shower.

No. The combi draw-off to the 3 way valve . One outlet of the valve to the electric heater, the other to the taps. The outlet of the electric heater, tees into the draw-off.

Stored has a limited capacity, so fine for sinks, no good for a shower.

Like a small water cylinder with an immersion heater.

Reply to
IMM

Find out.

You are not very bright at all. A combi is one box solution, with heating and water system all in one box. The Potterton Powermax is a combi. It is floor mounted and can do two bathrooms. The CB50 is infinitely continuous being two stage flow ouput.

Reply to
IMM

Unless you do have your shower in the kitchen are you not replacing the cost of a hot water cylinder and immersion heater with the cost of a more complex system of pipe work (especially the property has more than one floor) ?!...

Reply to
...Jerry...

Crap. It's a CPSU as you well know. Even the manufacturer doesn't call it a combi.

The manufacturer calls this a storage combination boiler......

A linsey-wolsey product if ever I saw one.

Nether a combi, nor a proper storage system.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

You obviously don't know. It is classed as a combi, see sedbuk. A CPSU incorporates a an integral integrated thermal store or heat bank.

It never runs out of hot water, being a two stage flow.

As In said, "You obviously don't know".

Reply to
IMM

I did. Go to the site, search on the database selecting CPSU and the Powermax models 140 -185 come up.

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Reply to
Andy Hall

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