One of the two ceiling downlights has flickered and died. I was in Lidl yesterday so, assuming GU10, picked up two LED on special offer.
Just tried to get at the light and discover it is a JC94199 FGLED3 type of light -
Mr Google doesn't seem to be able to find how to fix it. Do I really have to buy a replacement? If so I'd rather go for something a bit more standard. Help and suggestions please.
PS who invents these things?
presume as it's LED from the factory, they treat it as not-serviceable
they do say 10 year guarantee though ... don't suppose your house's previous owner left you a bunch of receipts?
And thus it begins - what I said would happen with these types of fitting.
I fit GU10 LEDs in fire rated housings and they've been fine, so have some bigger R63 spotlights. I have a load of SES and BC LED bulbs around the place.
And sometimes they blow. So I go to the cupboard, unwrap a spare LEDHut jobbie and pop it in.
Whoever thought sealed units were a good idea needs taking out and shooting.
And yes, I know all the arguments about heat. But this is not the correct answer.
Not even FENSA certificates!
So the easy answer is to buy GU10 compatible fittings and put the new bulbs I've got in there?
I don't even know how to remove the old fitting - wire cutters?
Maybe your solicitor should have asked the vendor awkward questions about paperwork for lightbulbs!
Why do you need a Fensa certificate ?. Those are for people who have no brains and need to be spoonfed every step of their lives. Any guarantee probably isn't worth the paper it is written on.
You didn't buy the property because it has nice windows. You bought it because it was the right price in the right condition and in the right area, or wifey deemed the kitchen and bathroom to be sufficiently 'dream' so that was the final decision.
Replacement windows need to be C rated (minimum), the glass needs to be safety glass if it is a critical area like the bottom half of a glazed door or immediately adjacent and is not more than a certain distance from the ground, and all habitable upstairs windows need a means of escape. It's not rocket science but as long as 50% of the population are too thick to have the vote, nanny state rules will always be in the background. A Fensa certificate won't tell you if the Euro cylinder locks are bump-proof.
How many times have I seen properties for sale that have been given a rear conservatory, sometimes with polycarbonate roof glazing and where the owners have removed the patio door and relaid the floor to make it one room. Totally contrary to Part L (2006) but most people (women) will just view, go weak at the knees, say goo-gahh, I must have it. As I said, if you plot the average IQ since 1945 you will get a steadily declining graph. At least the influx of East Europeans and Asians will reverse this (in time).
I'd have knocked 000's off the price had I realised he'd fitted these and lost the guarantee receipts. In fact I might even not have moved in. I've got taken the whole thing apart a far as I can and have the offending part in my hand (well next to it 'cause I can't hold it and type at the same time). So why can't I just buy one of those? How ungreen is that!
Well I argued with SWIMBO saying that we shouldn't risk moving in because all hell and high water would be leashed but she wouldn't listen so here we are. And it's me who has to get things fixed :(
I would, if the cutout is of a compatible size.
Now - if you don't need the fire rating and the void above is clear of insulation, an open backed fitting will cool the lamp the best. Personally, I prefer fire rated fittings with vent holes in the top plus an intumescent seal on said holes. This allows some air flow, but if the lamp combusts[1] then any fire is probably going to be contained. It's not real purpose of a fire rated downlight fitting, but it makes me feel better.
[1] Electronic things on mains do sometimes go up in smoke. This is why nearly all of my 12/24V SELV PSUs are mounted on plasterboard and not direct to wood.
There *should* be a junction box nearby, or terminals in the unit. One or the other.
Tell me about it. Yesterday I replaced a whole luminaire because the old one contained a weird fluorescent tube and ballast that I couldn't find anywhere. New on has got LED bulb in now,.
And then the 'lantern' that someone had made out of bits of plastic and stained pine, had to be broken apart to get the new bulb in...
Lighting is getting to te stage of 'fit and forget' and replace the while damned thing in 15 years time.
snipped-for-privacy@please.invalid (AnthonyL) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
I have similar ones - with a 7 year warranty (saved). At the time they were considerably brighter (7watts) than replacement GU10s. I am happy with them
.....also greater reliability due to not using miniturised components = and better cooling.
Right - I've got it out. Now any reason I shouldn't just buy a couple of these
The lighting is one of two for the hall passageway of a bungalow. The attic floor above has been boarded. The hole is 3"/75mm
Which is a fat lot of good when changing them turns into an electrical job...
They invent non standard things in order to tie you into their own ecology, so to speak. Often this backfires as either the chinese swamp the market with copies, or since you have made sure you and only you can make them the supply dries up. I have no idea about his standard you mention, so it must be pretty rare, at least where you live.
What was wrong with good old fashioned bayonet or les fittings for stuff. Brian
Post a picture of the part. It might be a bog-standard component, such as a 1W or 3W LED, and these are quite cheap.
Also, what's the rating specification written on the light? The advert doesn't mention power rating or supply voltage.
I quite enjoy watching bewildered people looking at bulbs (lamps) in the big stores. After a while the ladies often resort to phoning home. My daughter has loads at home that don't fit anything she owns!
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