I'm about to start the bodywork restoration of my old Triumph Spitfire which entails cutting out serious amounts of rust. I'm therefore going to need a new 4.5" angle grinder but want one that will stand up to the job - any recommendations on a make and model. I'm assuming the higher the wattage the better ?
Cheers
Jim ps apologies about being a bit off topic for the diy group but thought you guys would have some useful input
i have used a botch for the last 5 years.
never buy "BLACKSPUR" or "black and decker"
Err - ho? Are you employing someone to do it?
IMO... Soft start is good, as can be variable speed. Some sort of thermal overload protection is good. Needless to say, good full coverage goggles, and a dust mask, earplugs.
Fire extinguisher - if there is any even slightly flammable stuff nearby.
Quick release on the blade guard, so you can reposition easily is almost a vital requirement.
You may want to consider an air driven one, if you have compressor, as they can be a fair bit smaller than electric, which may help access in some cases. A dremel with a carbide burr bit can be a very good addition.
As a generality I would recomend Bosch. I bought my first one to rebuild a mini in '80 and it continued to take abuse for years. I have been so happy with it I even bought one for work where it has happily taken abuse for years and is still working fine.
The gears went eventualy on my home one. I could have replaced them but decided to get a new one, a PWS 7-115 (710w 115mm), that was much the same but had a lock button for changing wheels.
Slatts
I bought one of these a couple of months ago, when they were on offer at £8.99 if ordered with a minimum order value of about £25 IIRC. I also got an orbital sander for £3.99 at the same time.:-)
=============================== Also if you have a compressor it's worth considering other air tools (saws etc.) which can sometimes be more useful than an angle grinder for cutting out rusty bits. For starters look here:
Cic.
Note that these are large users of air so a compressor with 50-100 litre or more receiver is advisable.
In general the brand is not particularly important. What is important is that you know that the cheap end of the market, that for hobby machines, generally starting at around £35+VAT, have a motor design life as low as 15 hours of use with many failing at around 10 hours of use. You may think that this is ridiculous, and so it is, but consider that some who are tempted by these tools will do maybe 2 or three hours of intensive work when it is new, then the occasional five minutes or so every couple or three months and the grinder may well work for five to ten years before it fails while its user praises it as being a superb tool. Frankly if you pay peanuts you get a tool fit for monkeys. Yes it will be covered by warranty for the first year but if you use it intensely then you will soon get fed up with the stoppages and weeks without it while it is being 'assessed' and possible repaired.
Get a 'proffessional' tool and you will not regret it.
Huw
The message from Ian Stirling contains these words:
Generally, but I've met some that start so slowly that it's no clear whether they're going to or not, which is very disconcerting.
The message from Cicero contains these words:
Airtools are great, but don't forget you'll need gloves as they get very very cold if you use them for long periods.
I don't think there's a vast difference in performance between them so I'd probably just get a cheapo from your nearest shed which offers a decent warranty, and be prepared to change it if it fails. IMHO, a few cheap ones with different discs and brushes etc left attached can be a boon for this sort of thing - but too expensive if you go for posh makes. And cars don't produce the masonry dust that usually sees them off. FWIW I reckon Wicks do about the best 'cheap' stuff.
One other thing well worth while is a power nibbler. I got a secondhand electric Hitachi 1.2mm one off Ebay which is a super bit of kit. You can get air operated ones, but a compressor would be inconvenient for me. Also add on types for drills - but they're more clumsy.
Not off topic at all.
LOL, I'm still using my first angle grinder from B&D in 1982. It's had several sets of brushes, the cable has been replaced at least twice because of me catching the wire with the disc, it's been dropped and run over and still going. I was banger racing through most of the 80s and it's done some serious work.
In recent years I've had two, one for discs and one for the big nasty wire brush so I don't have to keep changing. The second one is a cheap crap job from the budget shop, I just replace when it dies, they're only a tenner nowadays.
Steve
Can you provide evidence to support those figure, IMO they're a load of rubbish. Where do they come from?
You may think that
In the last couple of months, using my cheap £14.99 angle grinder at work, I've probably already exceeded 10 hours of hard use. It's performing as well and is no noisier than it was when new.
Frankly if you pay peanuts you get a tool
Rubbish. It's true for many low priced tools, but definitely wrong as a generalisation.
Yes it will be covered by warranty for the first year but
I've got both 'professional' tools and cheapy ones I've csrefully selected from various offers and promotional sales etc. I see little difference between any of them. Certainly not enough to justify the high prices that many of the so called professional tools cost. Mike.
I think the cost differential is sometimes worth it if the performance is much better - like with jigsaws and most cordless tools, due to better batteries with the latter. But with basics like angle grinders, sanders and mains drills probably not.
Not really, the things are pretty lethal anyway :-). I've got a Ryobi of some vintage which still works very well.
BTW - before starting anything - cover the windscreen. The sparks from an angle grinder melt and adhere to glass and an abrasive rusty windscreen really isn't much use.
Huw (hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
Will this even get out of the box, then?
================================ In this instance it's easier to take the screen out completely before removing the body. It makes it easier to handle the body without risk of damage. As far as I know all Spitfires have a simple rubber screen surround, except perhaps the later ones.
Cic.
metal grinding and cutting without mishap but it burned out (literally flames coming out of it) after some prolonged use with a diamond blade on concrete slabs. Despite the final burnout I would say it would be a reasonably reliable tool for the kind of work the OP has in mind.
Cic.
I will second the Hitachi grinders I have two,one bought new and one seconhand both work hard one for metals and the other for stone,brick and tiles.not cheap but good deals to be had on ebay where they both were purchased
I didn't find that to be a problem, since the on/off switch only lasted about 3 hours in my Wickes one. It got stuck on ;-)
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