Good plan. I'll kick off.
I want to install aircon in the office - which is south facing,
with a big window, and about 3.5x4.5m. With blinds, I reckon I
need about 2-3kW of cooling.
I want a split unit, and I intend to put a hole in the
(external) wall, and put the pipes/cables through it.
I would like a recommendation of a make/model and supplier please.
I've googled this one to death, and phoned several suppliers,
who were quite frankly morons. I know there must be good ones
out there, but they clearly don't have well promoted websites.
It's important that the heat exchanger can be permanently
mounted on the outside of the house. This really seems to throw
the suppliers, and they come up with lines like "well, it's not
meant for outside installation, but it'll probably be ok".
That's how its done. Mine is humming softly as I write.
I'm not at all surprised about the websites. These are *small* firms in
general. It's generally not considered a DIY job either (except for window
rattlers). However, Yellow pages should find you a dozen local firms. I had
no trouble getting three quotes when I installed mine. You might try
eyp.co.uk and search a reasonable area since these firms supply some
Fujitsu air con is on 020 8421 7000. Mitsubishi Electric air con on 01707
Right!, I think that may be the problem. Its not something I'd like to
install or work on myself as specialist equipment is required. I believe
that they still are a bit fussy re the gasses involved, but really for
what you can get a system installed for its quite good value...
Your application seems to occupy that no-mans land between domestic
single-pak units and the big commercial splits. I'd be tempted to go
for one of the pre-gassed splits which are intended for non-a/c trades
to install. (This electrician and fridge-mender has installed four).
Suggest the ones from Addvent (part of City Electrical Factors) which
I'd reckon are OK for a competent, well tooled, DIYer to install.
No. The units and all the pipework is already filled with gas under a
positive pressure. The pipes connect with fittings similar to the
hydraulic fittings you get on tractors/plant (only smaller), so no
brazing/nitrogen flushing/vacuum required.
I can't think why it would be any different -- indeed they look
exactly the same as the refrigerent filled evaporators to me.
The ends of the heat exchanger are different -- standard plumbing,
gate valves, etc. which is why it struck me as much more DIYable.
It's unclear whether they sell the pieces necessary to DIY the
installation ,however - unlike some of the other suppliers.
They also have a paragraph on their web site saying that it isn't
worth considering fitting yourself because the prices to install are
The other supplier mentioned that it takes about two hours to fit a
split system yourself. That's probably optimistic and does not
include running the power to the appropriate place(s), so
realistically half a day.
That being the case, professional installation, assuming it's done
properly, isn't going to be that cheap and I think I prefer to make
the judgment call on whether it's worth installing myself or not.
The other supplier has self -install packages, but only for up to a
certain power level and length of refrigerant lines - not a bad idea
I wonder if any of the suppliers will do just a commissioning service,
where they supply equipment and instructions to fit, and then offer a
commissioning service to check and charge the system.
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
> It's unclear whether they sell the pieces necessary to DIY the
> installation ,however - unlike some of the other suppliers.
They were one of the people I called, and were frankly quite
unhelpful. Maybe I got the wrong guy and the rest of the staff
are great, maybe they're all like that. I'll never find out.
It basically covers the two rooms. I'll measure them sometime (or dig out
the quotes) but they aren't huge. OTOH there is an unusually large amount
of electronics in them and they both get morning and afternoon sun.
They are Mitsubishi units.
Some of the quotes I got were (I felt) underspecified (hadn't taken the
electronics enough into account) and as it turns out I certainly wouldn't
have wanted any less than the 7kW total for the two rooms that we ended up
getting. I prefer an ambient 20 or at most 21 if working. The system copes
with external temperatures peaking at 32 for days on end but certainly
wouldn't if it had been smaller.
On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 13:06:35 +0100, 666 email@example.com[dot]co[dot]uk
(Simon Gardner) wrote:
Presumably the cooling capacity/power is determined by the outside
Do the suppliers specify a temperature drop that will be achieved for
a given power level or something similar? i.e. like central heating
but the other way round?
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Heat is via roof.
Roof is tile.
Old way of cooling water is to put in porous pot and allow evapouration to
keep water cool.
If I was to run one of those automatic watering hose pipes (the ones with
loads of small holes all the way along) along the ridge of the roof, then
allow a small flow of water down the roof over the tiles, wouldn't that keep
the roof void cool and reduce the heating effect for the rest of the house?
[Granted that loft insulation should be keeping the heat from coming down in
the summer as well as going up in the winter]
The South facing roof slope also drains into a water butt so any run off
would not be wasted.
Test spray with a hose pipe may be in order :-)
As I am not on a water meter so far this would also be an economical
Water valve in loft controlled by thermostat?
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