adding security to timber French doors

Currently 2 x rack bolts going across, & 4 small "bog door" bolts 2 per door 1 up 1 down into frames.??. Mmm

Suggestions please on what to add/replace this lot with to add some reasonable locking security?

Thinking of hook bolts (like you get on multipoint setups) to tie the doors together to resist jemmying?

Any other thoughts welcome

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
Jim K
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up 1 down into frames.

How about 2 rack bolts in each door, going upwards and downwards into the frame?

Are the hinges on the outside? If so, fit hinge bolts so the door does not open even if they knock the pins out of the hinges.

Reply to
RobertL

The not-cheap, but not too much joinery work would be surface espagnolette = bolts - 1 per door providing top and bottom bolts from a central handle, an= d a degree of stiffening.

I bought some nice ones from Barry Brothers, Praed St London that take euro=

-cylinder lock barrels (though didn't subsequently use them).

The much-more-work solution is to use the locks intended for pvc doors. Thi= s requires quite a bit of complicated router-work. There are specific types= intended for double doors that provide both top and bottom bolts on each d= oor into the frame, and hooks/slides from the master door into the slave.

(this type might be difficult to fit on double doors that meet in stepped o= verlap)

The latter was the solution I actually used on my doors, and I think worth = the work where appearance is important.

Reply to
dom

door 1 up 1 down into frames.

not open even if they knock the pins out of the hinges.

yeah could be a bit better spose, tho they are 7ft tall & not connected except at top & bottom (into frames) I wonder about how much they'll "give" if set about with a bar?

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

oor 1 up 1 down into frames.??. Mmm

nable locking security?

rs together to resist jemmying?

All glass doors are inherently insecure unless with bars or special glass/polycarbonate etc. So pointless going over the top with fancy locks/bolts on a fragile door You need to be thinking about other measures if you think there are problems in your area. Burglar alarms, safe, outside automatic lights etc or buy a dog.

Reply to
harry

The house my son has just bought has a device that looks a bit like a chrome plated hasp and staple securing the French doors. Dunno what its called and just ran a Google search and can't spot em there either. Perhaps someone else will know what I am on about!

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

door 1 up 1 down into frames.??. Mmm

reasonable locking security?

doors together to resist jemmying?

I used espagnolette bolts ("FIX" brand) which are multipoint hook type. Require some routing work on the door edge and can either be fitted to one door only with hook receivers on the second door, or an espagnolette on both. An added advantage on this brand (others may do the same) is that the top and bottom shoot bolts rotate into place (rather than just moving vertically) in such as way that they pull the door into line with the top and bottom receiver plates. So if the doors gets very slightly out of true, these still engage and pull them back into line as you lock. See

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the full range They are made to measure and quite pricey though they do have a cheaper sort of "off-the-shelf" variant where the handle is at a fixed distance from one end (1000mm I think) but the overall length can be specified. (I have no connection with this supplier but have taken several of these locks and been very happy with them - and others sell the same brand - e.g. SDS in SW London))

HTH - Chris

Reply to
Chris

glass/polycarbonate etc.

The general security rule with glass is that you should arrange that the burglar not only has to break the glass but must also climb in though the broken hole. i.e. he should not be able to break the glass then just reach in and unlock the door.

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

My previous house had wooden french doors with a large 1 piece double glazed window in each door and plastic inserts that looked like metal bars, might fool a burglar in the dark. The left door had 2 bolts top & bottom that were fitted on to the edge of the door so were concealed when the other door was closed the right door had espagnolette bolts (3 point) so all in all it had 5 locking points. For extra security I could take the internal handle off (was none on the outside) and just leave the spindle in and just use as required.

Reply to
ss

If the scrotes have time and a crowbar or garden spade, nothing is really secure. Alarms based on contacts are fine except they don't go off until the doors are actually open i.e. when they've already been butchered. I would fit some impact sensors. Ok they're only cheap things that take AA batteries but at least they make a noise as soon as the break in starts and the perpetrators don't know what else is sounding off at the front. That said I don't know anyone with a bell box outside that's been broken into, so maybe that's enough to put off the opportunists

Reply to
stuart noble

I have heard that the alarm box can be filled with fixing foam to deaden the alarm.

Reply to
harry

Yes but, unless you're very well off, you're likely to be done by an idiot rather than a proper burglar.

Reply to
stuart noble

door 1 up 1 down into frames.

not open even if they knock the pins out of the hinges.

Our french doors have a rebate where they meet, which is a bit of a pain. Ended up with rack bolts top and bottom of each into the frame, a bog-standard Euro-cylinder deadlock a bit below waist height and a bit below shoulder height (keyed alike, only keyed on the inside, fitted using a rebate kit), and hinge bolts.

I think that doing anything more would mean major surgery on the doors or be inappropriate for a dining room - I'm reasonably comfortable that there are easier ways to get into our house (Unfortunately some toerag agreed about 18 months ago ...)

Reply to
John Sabine

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