I'm trying to keep the house true to the original design, even if it means
paint, putty and rot :)
I thought of replacing them, but I can fix all of them for less then the
cost of replacing just one :(
Indeed, and if they're kept painted, etc., they'll last a long time.
On the energy thing, I intended to add in my earlier treatise the
comment somebody did make about the idea of a solid plexiglass cover
would likely be a problem from both condensation but a conventional
storm over it would help.
It's not at all difficult to build them assuming the frames are deep
enough to hold them and they would serve double-duty of the extra energy
savings as well as a first barrier for the rain.
I might mention that these windows are for an unheated unfinished basement.
It's full size, has a ton of storage, half dozen work benches, pingpong
table, etc. but we don't go downthere much. I'm not sure how much heat loss
goes through them. I live in the mid-Willamette Valley, Oregon, and
sub-freezing weather is rare. We use wood heat for the top two floors, and I
think my stove is oversized for the house as it is - two or three loads of
wood and we are toasty as can be :)
But seriously, it would not be that hard to use double or even triple pane
glass - would it be worth the effort since the basement is not heated?
Under those circumstances, perhaps not on the heat loss -- I was
thinking of the conventional storm since you have such an issue w/
driving rain, in particular w/ the energy gain a secondary benefit.
For unheated cellar, probably not worth multi pane windows
for heat. I'd seriously consider plexiglass. With holes
drilled, and screwed to the outside. Partly draft, heat,
and partly keep water off the windows.
It makes no sense at all to try to restore windows like these in a
house that isn't on the National Register of Historic Landmarks. Your
two logical choices are: 1) Replace with a good quality vinyl basement
window with whatever features you deem important. 2) For windows that
will never need opening replace window with glass blocks. Trying to
restore what you have is an exercise in futility. Consider that many
building codes are now requiring 'egress windows' in basements that do
or could have any living facilities in them, so you could be ahead of
the game in that respect should you opt for it.
It is prudent to use your time, talent and money on things that have
some reasonable practical value; anything else is just
That makes _no_ sense at all...either of those options is way more
expensive than repairing what he has and once done they'll last a long time.
The egress thing is strawman; OP has already indicated it is unheated
space therefore it isn't living space and it would take far more than
simply replacing the windows themselves for those to become adequate.
I'd say it's "prudent" to be prudent and not spend money needlessly...
No, I put it on hold a few days. As I was cleaning the frame, I realized
that the bottom wood piece was rotted much worse then I originally thought
and needs to be replaced. I can make one of these, as they don't require a
router jig or table. I don't have a router bit that will do a rabbet deep
enough, so I'm off to HomeDepot tomorrow for wood and router bits. I might
do the sides also, since they are easy to do. Fortunately the cross pieces
are good, as I don't have the setup to make those.
And I'll definitely check for DAP 33 glazing compound. The glazing compound
I have is acrylic something or other.
OK, sounds good...if you get a chance and are interested, post the
actual product brand/name and I'll see if I know anything specific about
As I say, I've used quite a number but I'm sure there are some I've not
( :) ) as well...but a couple of the others I have used I either didn't
like at all for various problems/reasons and one that is in the end a
good product I don't think is a good choice for a neophyte because it is
difficult to use correctly primarily because it sets up so quickly one
can't work it like one can normal compound or even caulks.
This is what I have on my shelf:
DAP "Alex plus", Acrylic latex caulk plus silicone, "35 yr. durability
guarantee". And it's almond colored, which doesn't match anything I have -
why did I get almond colored?
ACE White glazing compound. "Glazing Compound is a siliconized acrylic
formula that is used to replace old or brlken windowpanes..."
I also found a tube of what appears to be ordinary latex caulk.
You don't want either of the caulks, obviously.
I looked at the Ace web site for that glazing compound and it was less
than helpful. I've not tried that particular one; it sounds similar to
the product I disrecommended for the neophyte as being hard to work
quickly as the surface skims over very quickly once it's in place and
makes it difficult to get a good clean edge when not practiced in using
the putty knife.
I couldn't find the instruction/usage data on the web site; I've got to
run to town tomorrow anyway, I'll see if it's on the shelf to take a
look at. If it expects the "triangular tip" to be all you're going to
need to get a clean finished edge, I have my doubts. The other problem
w/ the tube types I've used previously is they aren't stiff enough so
that they sag before they cure so the shape after they were knifed isn't
the same shortly after when set.
The traditional compound is still the standard in my book...
I take back a few of the evil things I've said about Home Depot. They
actually had buckets of DAP 33 on the shelf. And my wife bought me a router
table for an early christmas present. Time to have some serious fun now :)
Actually - there was a pane missing and a piece of cardboard in it's place.
The rotted bottom was only part of the problem, and not why I originally
decided to overhaul it. IOW I could see the caulk (on the inside, they
installed the window in the frame backwards) was dried and splitting, plus a
missing pane. After I removed it, I found the rotted wood. I'll take some
pics and post the before/during/after images.
I'm easy to convince. The side pieces rotted at the bottom where the were
joined to the bottom piece. The top piece and the cross pieces (I forget
what they are called) are the only ones in good shape. It looks like the
bottom piece was not a single piece of wood, but it looks like they
laminated three pieces together. One with the greek or whatever finish (ogee
router bit?), one center piece, and a narrower piece for the rabbet. Weird.
My approach is to use a single piece and just use my router to shape it. I
have one bit already, I just need the deeper rabbet bit.
I have a 1/4 bit I can use for the first pass, and a 3/8 I can use for the
second. I'm not a router expert, I would have just done the 1/2 rabbet in
I haven't seen anything but the pictures and have a _lot_ of original
windows much older than these and would still disagree that it's
necessarily so that when repaired they'll not last quite a long time.
And, one can generally repair/replace a transmission/engine still for
quite significantly less expenditure than for a whole new automobile.
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