Whirlpool washer fills, but won't agitate, spin, or drain

My Whirlpool direct drive washer fills with water, but doesn't advance through the cycles. If I turn the dial to different section of the cycle, I still can't get it to agitate, spin, or drain. It doesn't make any noise at all in any of those cycles, but will continue to fill if I up the desired water level and move the dial to a spot where it would fill.

Where should I look to troubleshoot this? Is it worth testing the lid switch? I would think that that doesn't affect agitating, but I'm not sure.

Any help would be appreciated!

Reply to
jehma
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The lid switch affects agitation in commercial washers. The few residential washers I've used only have only the spin disabled when the lid is open.

Do you have a multimeter? If so, I would: 1) Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet. 2) Pop the washer top, which usually just requires prying with a screwdriver at the front. and 3) Test for continuity of the lid switch when open/closed.

Mike

Reply to
upand_at_them

Tom. G.

Reply to
Tom

I know this washer agitates with the lid open (or it did, when it was working!). Could the lid switch still be the culprit? Or is it more likely to be somewhere in the timer?

It doesn't use the motor to drain, right? So it isn't likely to be in the motor?

Reply to
jehma

"jehma" wrote in news:1135732886.677003.162710 @f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

How old is the machine? It sounds like the transmission is shot. If it is, it's time for a new washer.

Reply to
JJ

IF the lid switch is bad, bypass it. If it still doesn't work, or if the switch was good to begin with:

The three things it won't do all require the motor. Filling doesn't.

I'd check to see the connector is on the motor. check if the motor is physically hot at all. Maybe something is jammed and won't rotate. Check if there is 110v at the connnector when the timer is in one of the three phases it won't do.

You don't have to be under the washer for all these tests, if you don't want to be.. Get some wires with alligator clips, witth rubber covers, on each end, and clip several in a row if you need to, adn the meter to them. Or connect lamp cord to the loose alligator clips.

Lay any exposed metal parts on newspaper, or tape them temorarily, before turning the power on.

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Reply to
mm

I though you said ;it iddn't drain. Look at your own subject line.

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Reply to
mm

He said it was direct drive. I don't have that. Does it still have a transmission?

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Reply to
mm

Lid switch.

Reply to
gfretwell

the samurai has great free advice [and reasonable parts] at:

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Reply to
buffalobill

I know what the machine is doing. I didn't know if it uses the motor to drain or not.

Reply to
jehma

The pump is driven by the motor. You can lower the end of the hose below the tub and it will gravity drain but that is not how it works normally.

Reply to
gfretwell

I would look to see if there is a little pile of rubber grindings under the washer. If so, the direct drive coupler has disintegrated. I don't believe that I could hear the motor running on mine when it went out.

Steve

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Reply to
plugnickle

I have a whirlpool that does the same thing from time to time, usually it happens when the washer is overloaded, or un balanced. I've since made sure not to really fill it up, and had no problems, (10 + loads since)

Dave

Reply to
zephyr

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