Good design, might make you think about leaving the keys in it if you know about it going dead. OTOH, if you leave the keys in it, you probably don't have to worry about a dead battery. ;)
Hi, Bad battery(internal short) will lower the voltage too. Not only a bad alternator. Most trouble with alternator is worn out brushes, bad diode in the rectifier block or regulator chip. Sure sign of bad alternator is increased electrical noise on the radio on AM band, flickering light, etc.
Got any facts about the 72 and 84 month battery vs. a 60 month battery. Did you check the capacities, plate thicknesses, anything?
You're right! My 72 or 84 month guaranteed battery is just a 60 month battery with a higher price. Funny though my recent battery purchase were no more costly than in the past and the batteries had way more power.
But then I just made this all up, never owned a car, never drove a car, never bought a battery. Hell I just live in a hole and never look out. Wait, I think the last part describes someone else.
One in my lifetime and it was in the summer also. A jump from another vehicle did nothing, so I assumed it was the starter and removed it. Dumb. The starter was ok. Had to be a battery short. You can't ever tell when you will get a short, could be after a month or two, or never.
So you are a dope when it comes to batteries and how retail works in general. So what? You don't even seem to be aware that ALL car batteries are made by a VERY small number of companies. Most brands are re-badged from somewhere else.
Automotive battery technology has barely changed at all in the last 50 years except for what they use for case material. The only difference between a 60 month battery and an 84 month battery is that one costs more, and they might give you some of that extra money back if you will keep buying their batteries.
The ONLY quality difference between auto batteries of a given size can be measured by weight. More lead=better quality. That's it, case closed.
Mys Terry
How come that in most (but not all) cases, the longer warranty battery also has higher power ratings than the lesser of a given case size?
Look at the ratings on the 24 and 24F as an example.
How come that in most (but not all) cases, the longer warranty battery also has higher power ratings than the lesser of a given case size?
Its easy tro compare battery warranties! The heavier the battery the longer the warranty!
Basically they all fail at the same rate. but the long warranty battery has more overcapacity than a shorter warranty one. the heavier longer warranty has more lead and a bit bbetter construction.
so more overcapacity means a given battery can do its job longer.
provided it doesnt suffer a major failure like a shorted cell.
How come with each response you keep changing the subject. You seem to want to bitch about retail. Answer the question. How about some numbers for the batteries? But I understand your not giving any, since that would totally refute what you have been saying.
I think you bit off a bit more than you can chew with the statement that batteries haven't changed in 50 years. Have much experience with batteries
50 years ago?
Really? How so? I have not changed my position once.
Seems I already did that.
What exactly are you questioning, bozo?
They haven't.
Yes
Your move, jerk.
Mys Terry
minutes of car use per
I'm not going to disagree with you, but...
If the battery already needs to be replaced, how much harm can overcharging it do?
Until that problem is found, isn't it better to overcharge than to have a dead battery? and 1) It's less likely that one will overcharge since the vehicle is actually using more than the normal amount of current. 2) the owner can judge for himself how much effort he should put into finding the high draw or other problem versus how much he's willing to pay for replacement batteries.
Maybe, but again, since he's not going to redesign the car, the remedy would be to change cars, and why change cars when one can keep the battery charged with a trickle charger, and let's say cut the life of the battery from 6 years to 4 years. In four years or 8 years or 12, he may be ready to buy a new car.
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.
for my pre-2000 vehicles, 12.60 vdc is a fully charged battery, measure it at the cigar lighter with all devices off. start the car, measure 13.8 volts dc at the cigar lighter at the lowest idle. if your car battery is old, it will fail you in the cold weather which causes voltage drop. if your alternator is no good, your car will run briefly on a fully charged battery and die. do not replace the alternator until you test the car's operation with a new charged battery. see also:
get the whole story at:
If you leave your vehicle parked for more than two weeks, then you have several options:
15.1. The best long term (over one month) option is to continuously float charge your car battery in a well ventilated area by connecting a "smart" battery charger, voltage regulated float charger, or 5 watt or greater solar float charger. You will need a "float" charging voltage between 13.2 and 13.8 VDC at 80=B0 F (26.7=B0 C) and at least .5 amps (500 milliamps) to overcome the vehicle's parasitic load and the natural self-discharge of the battery. Do not use a cheap "trickle" charger, because it will overcharge your battery and dry out the electrolyte. This option will allow you to park you vehicle indefinitely, but the battery should be checked periodically.15.2. Disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery cable to remove the parasitic load, but be sure that you have saved any security codes or radio stations presets that will have to be reprogrammed, but the battery's natural self-discharge will continue. This option will work from one month to six months depending battery type and temperature.
15.3. Replace the battery with the largest VRLA AGM or Spiral Wound AGM type battery that will fit, e.g., an Optima or Exide Select Orbital, with very low self-discharge rates. For periods greater than two months, also disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery cable to remove the parasitic load. This option will work for six months to twelve months depending battery type and temperature.15.4. Install a battery with a larger reserve capacity or connect an identical battery in parallel, but the battery's natural self-discharge will continue. For periods greater than two months, also disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery cable to remove the parasitic load. This option will work for two months to twelve months depending battery type and temperature.
15.5. Replace the battery when you are ready to drive the vehicle again, especially if the battery is over three years old and in a hot climate.15.6. Have someone drive your car during the day at highway speeds every two weeks for at least 15 minutes to keep the battery charged.
15.7. Jump start the battery and hope that there is no latent damage.15.8. Install a low voltage disconnect. This is especially helpful if the driver forgets to turn the headlights off.
minutes of car use per
I was just suggesting possible problems; however it sounds like he just has a battery that won't hold a charge. It is simple enough to tell if the vehicle is draining the battery or the battery just won't hold a charge. Two ways to do that. One, put an ammeter in the circuit and see what the draw is. Two, charge the battery and compare the connected and disconnected voltages after a period of time. Just one or two days on the disconnected battery might be enough, but a comparison of a week will surely define whether or not the vehicle draws a current.
Sure you can futz with something but that isn't acceptable to most people, besides it is a lot of bother. I do futz with stuff, but just in the interim. I usually just correct or fix the problem at a later date.
I liked the sound of the heavy draw radio (radio off)that I installed in a vehicle. The solution was simple since the vehicle was used only occasionally; I just installed a switch in the line to the battery. Lost the radio and clock setting. When I used the truck for a camping trip I would flip the switch on, set the stations and the time and that would be it until we returned home in a week or two. Then I turned the switch off. That's a futz, but the real solution was to buy a different radio which wasn't worth it to me.
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