What paint for plumbing bookcase?

A friend got this link to a cute modernistic bookcase. I'm wondering what kind of pipe and fittings and what kind of black paint might have been used, so the paint doesn't flake of 1 week after set up. <http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/chicago/how-to/morgans-diy-plumbing-pipe - shelving-097760> or <http://preview.tinyurl.com/ycac3oz
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Han
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Looks pretty good. Pipe flanges, T's and 90 degreee els. The T's make it a bit "clunky." I would have used couplings under the shelves and cleated the wall to hold the back of the shelves. Black or galvanized when clean hold paint well. Wipe the pipe with spirits, then wash with soap/water. Any paint will stick well and not flake. Dressing the floor flange holes and covering exposed threads is the toughest part to make it look "neat." But if you do too much it won't look like plumbing any more, Maybe the T's are a good idea. I kinda like it the way it is.
--Vic
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wrote:

Thanks, Vic!
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Han
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On 8/16/2011 6:47 PM, Vic Smith wrote:

Arrgh- accidently did a direct reply again...
Stove or engine paint comes to mind, and what he said about the degreasing part. Scuffing with a green scrubby pad helps, as well. Pipe was a standard way to make institutional/industrial rails and racking for many years. They also have pretty and lightweight modern materials used for making commercial rails for raised platforms, and knockdown frames for the tarps used on fancy yachts in winter. The pipes slide in, and you tighten hex-cap setscrews in the fittings to hold them. Plumbing dept will be a lot cheaper, though. Note that you can pre-paint the pipes and fittings, and even bake them, if you can be careful during assembly. May have to touch up a scratch here and there, but a lot less messy that painting in place. Or if you are rich, take them down to local hot-rod or marine place, and get them powder-coated.
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aem sends...


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I didn't read the associated article, but those shelves appear to be freestanding. I think they just lean against the wall.
I also question the stated cost of $200. Buying just the steel from the Borg would probably cost more, nevermind the wood.
R
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On Wed, 17 Aug 2011 06:30:52 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

Top flanges most likely screwed into the wall. Only way you'd get me near it.

For 1/2" black from HD website.
18 ELS 1.20 (21.60) 14 T'S 1.50 (21.00) 8 FLANGES 3.73 (29.84) 18 10" NIPPLES 2.55 (45.90) 32-40' PIPE 11.62 X 4 (10'S) 46.48
Total 164.82
More than I thought it would be. But that's cutting/threading the verticals yourself from the 10's. Probably hit +$200 to get it all at threaded lengths. Good reason to have dies if you do much of this. Then you'd knock down the nipple cost too. 3/4" would cost roughly 33% more, putting cost higher. Not really practical. Just for looks and the hell of it. But that's one strong shelf frame.
--Vic
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wrote:

I like the looks of it, but there's a bit of fudging about costs. What do 10'(?) 1x12s cost? Stain, etc.
I like that there's minimal attachment to the wall. With the right rubber pads on the bottom flanges to protect the floor, and only 4 holes high up on the wall in a less noticeable area, it's almost perfect for a tenant. Collapsible and probably comparable in weight to a simple wooden bookshelf. Though once the black iron got painted and/or the threads rusted together, getting it apart wouldn't be so easy.
What's your guess on the load that 3/4" Ts can take with a 12" shelf support arm?
R
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On Wed, 17 Aug 2011 08:31:04 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

Maybe 250-300 lbs on the outer end of a single T before it cracks. Less over time before it fatigues and cracks. Just a guess. You're not supposed to do that. But it would be fun.
--Vic
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wrote:

I would have no idea of the costs. A friend posted that his bookcases hadn't survived his move from NYC to Grinnell. And asked for cheap ways to get new bookcases. This link was 1 of his replies, and I thought it cute, for some people. Just questioned how to reliably paint it, and I got most of my answers - THANKS ALL!!

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Han
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Whoa there. You trying to kill this thread?
--Vic
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wrote:

Not all. One question hasn't been nswered yet - what paint? Rustoleum??
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Han
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Whatever paint suits your fancy. It's just pipe, and it's inside and dry. Any paint will work. Rustoleum is fine. Any time I want a good glossy finish on metal I use canned automotive spray paint, but maybe the brush-on enamels level out better now. Besides, pipe isn't smooth anyway - it's a bit bumpy. So brushing on Rustoleum should work fine. Maybe better than spray if it levels well.
--Vic
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On 8/17/2011 8:30 AM, Vic Smith wrote:

rustoleum epoxy appliance paint. very hard after thoroughly curing. comes in only a few colors, but gloss black is one of them.
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email.me:

Thanks!!
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Han
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