No truck, no real steps, just pull down attic type. I can open up a
2'x8' bay of the gable end wall. Is there a fairly easy way to do this?
It has to go up about 10.5'. Getting a boom truck will be tricky, no
one wants to do it.
I have a drywall lift for installing drywall but I don't think it will
go high enough. May have access to scaffolding... thinking of making
steps across 2 sets of scaffolding. The scaffolding may be coming here
anyway to do some stucco work. Any creative ideas?
On Aug 16, 9:29 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You didn't say what was under the opening. If they can drive the
forklift under there then just pull the sheets in from the opening.
You can get an extension for most drywall lifts. I don't think I'd
put a lift on top of scaffolding but someone has probably done it :-)
Go to your local supplier and tell them you need it delivered to a 2nd
story. And you have an opening. They will use a truck with a
forklift on the back. Make it clear if you expect them to unload at
the top or if you will have guys ready to do that. Make sure there is
a clear good path to under the opening. If it's soft get some osb and
lay it down.
How much drywall are you talking about? The
possible...errr....sensible solutions are dependent on how many sheets
need to go up.
I work by myself a lot and I have a half ton chain hoist that can lift
10'. I've used that to bring up plywood and such, but never drywall.
Don't see why it wouldn't work if you were careful about the sheet
To me, that begs the question-- is there ever going to be a real
stairway to that space?
The lift is still the easier way to move that much drywall-- but drop
down stairs seem like a temporary way to get to a space you're doing
that much work on.
How much and how big? If you only need like 12 sheets of 1/2" 4x8
up there and only one or two will end up full sheets-- then stage it
downstairs- cut it and carry cut sheets up one at a time.
I work alone & that usually works for me. Leave the sheet on the
trailer - cut & carry. Keeps the mess inside down - keeps the stuff
out of the way & I get my exercise in smaller batches.
Nobody else asked, so I will- you are finishing (presumably for living
space) an area without a real stairway? Is adding one part of the
project plans? Pull-down steps aren't rated for fire egress from
living(especially sleeping) space in any area I am aware of.
I fully understand. There are plans for an outside stairway but it
takes me forever to make decisions, the main one being exactly where to
put the outside door. The room is above my garage and for now it would
just be storage, but I hate to have the room get full of junk and then
try to hang sheetrock, tape and spackle around all the stuff that will
undoubtedly find it's way up there.
Down in the garage is my "man cave" and the girlfriend says she'd like
the upstairs to be her "woman cave". Ha ha ha, right. That will be the
2nd story of my man cave... the wood shop.
Anyway, it will not be much of anything until the outside steps are in.
1 car or 2 car garage? What size are the joists? 10 foot span, they
need to be at least 2x8, IIRC, on 16 centers, to be rated for more than
light storage. In my part of planet, that is rare. If a 2 car garage, I
hope you have a centerline beam, even with 2x10 joists,
Somebody that can do the deflection math in their head will be along
shortly to correct me- I'm no engineer, my 'gut feelings' about these
things, are based on how things were done back in stone age. Engineered
joists never will look right to me, even though my head knows they work
Garage is 28 x 32. Custom built 12/12 pitch roof trusses for attic are
rated for it to be a full live load bearing floor. No beam needed. I'd
have to dig up the specs sheet but there are 2x12's at the floor and
2x8's for the roof with all the truss webbing in between. Attic room is
16' wide. I'm about 220lbs and can make the floor shake but I can't
make it bounce. ......................
Found the blueprints, from what I can decipher the attic room floor is
rated at 40lb/sq'. Just called the truss manufacture to double check,
they will get back to me.
Typically second floors are designed with a 30#/SF live load, so the
40# is a point in your favor, as is the no-bounce test, though that
might change once the room is loaded and occupied. You mentioned
putting a shop up there, right? What sort of shop and what are the
If I didn't want to spend the money, and were willing to invest
a half day, I'd nail some 2x4s together to build a two rail ramp,
about 45 deg,
and slide the dry wall up one at a time. Then I'd pull out the nails
use the 2x4s for any framing that needed to be done......
That could be done in much less time than would be taken for
the trip to Home Depot (or wherever) to get special equipment and
take it back....
I'm pretty sure that's how they built the pyramids......
Andy in Eureka, Texas
BTDT, exactly how we hoisted 30' wide trusses to a second floor
location. Two people, one pushing, one on the header plate, C-clamps
as safety stops on the 45 degree ramps, and a decent length of rope
and ten of the trusses were stacked in place in a couple of hours. In
a nearby development there were three guys working with a boom truck
all morning. They had more $$ to spend, I guess.
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