What do you put on a brown wood door facing the sun & rain?

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I've a brown wooden door which is peeling yellowish flakes all over and the bottom floorboard (cherry?) is worn to the bare wood getting wet in the rain.
What do you put on this kind of door to protect it?
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On Thu, 6 Dec 2012 04:24:37 +0000 (UTC), Tony Palermo

Your mother-in-law!
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wrote:

Bite your tongue My late mother-in-law was an angel. Who is now much missed.
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Seriously. What information do I need to give you for you to advice me?
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Storm door.
I got a door to refinish. I'll probably take it off, sand, and refinish with polyurethane. I insulated one of my hollow doors, but this one is not hollow, still an issue.
Greg
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gregz wrote:

Even if I take it off the wood all around both sides of the door also needs to be refinished and it is not smooth so it needs special help.
What more information do you need to advice me? Let me know.
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gregz wrote:

I do not think storm doors would be apropriate in this set up as it is a front door to the house with a big opening and side panel. http://www.freeimagehosting.net/irtvy
This is what the outside is peeling like. http://www.freeimagehosting.net/obpmu
The inside is very dark stain of some sort. http://www.freeimagehosting.net/nkdfr
Your advice is suggested.
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Tony Palermo wrote:

Your door looks to be Phillipine mahogany that has been varnished. The varnish is in terrible shape and needs to be totally removed either by sanding and/or scraping or chemically (paint remover).
Once the existing finis is gone you have to apply another. You have two options: paint or a clear finish. If you want a clear finish, you have these choices: varnish (poly or not), lacquer or oil.
No finish will last indefinitely. Paint will last the longest. Oil (tung or boiled linseed) is the easiest to apply and reapply. Varnish in your situation might go for a couple of years before it needs renewing. Maybe longer but not much.
If it were my door, I would use a marine varnish making sure it had an additive for UV protection.; 4-6 coats. I always liked Z-Spar varnish, would probably use one of these... http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid 1 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid 0
The trick to maintaining a varnished surface is to add another coat at the first sign of disintegration. That would be dulling; lifting or peeling is too late. When redoing, the surface should be sanded with fine (180-240) paper to remove the oxidized layer, provide tooth and to avoid building up an excessively thick layer of varnish.
--

dadiOH
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dadiOH wrote:

The door is very dark on the one side away from the sun. It is very light on the other side facing the sun.
Do you think there is stain on the door in addition to varnish?
Here is the inside of door color that I wish to match on outside. http://www.freeimagehosting.net/kmoc2
Do I add dark brown stain to the varnish first?
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Tony Palermo wrote:

Probably.
No, stain, let dry then varnish. Keep in mind that the sun is going to bleach the outside color, stain or not. It will never match and stay matched to the inside.
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dadiOH
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dadiOH wrote:

That must explain why the outside of the sill is lighter than the inside.
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What size is that door ?? I had similar setup with single pane, and 36 inch solid wood door. I installed insulated window pane, because it was too cold. Wood was just painted, not stained, except I redid the rear of the door back to stain.
Greg
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gregz wrote:

The opening is about 7 feet by 7 feet. The glass is two pane thick. The door itself is only 3 and one half feet wide and feels like solid. I do not think I want to paint. I want to stain to same color and then protect best.
In this picture taken right now you can see the two different stain color at the bottom of the door at the "sill" on bottom. http://www.freeimagehosting.net/aekp4
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I'd look here http://www.sikkens.us/en/Products/AvailableRetailers/Exteriors/Pages/default.aspx
Sikkens make some very good products, but being all wood, there is nothing that will last forever. Prepping it properly then using Sikkens and doing regular touch up and maintenance, it would hold up a long time
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A metal storm door! - sunlight will never go through.
Martin
On 12/6/2012 7:27 PM, Tony Palermo wrote:

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On 12/7/2012 11:49 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:

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On 12/5/2012 11:24 PM, Tony Palermo wrote:

Floorboard? Mean the lower part of the door? I would not use clear finish on a door getting lot of sun....sand, prime and paint it and then put some sort of kick plate across the bottom. Of course some sort of awning would help...clear finish in strong sun works a little like a greenhouse and lets sun deteriorate the wood more quickly.
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Norminn wrote:

Maybe that is the problem. There is awning but it faces the sun so it is not working.
You suggest brown finish but is that varnish or stain or urethane or what is best for brown door all wood very thick and very heavy?
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On 12/6/2012 12:45 PM, Tony Palermo wrote:

Just out of curiosity, how much of the door and sill are exposed when the sun is on it? South side of house?
First, it appears that part (or all?) of the peeling problem is due to moisture seeping into the wood through the joint at base of door frame...I don't think it would peel that badly if just sun and weather caused the problem. In order for any finish to adhere you need to sand away the weathered (gray) wood....looks like a very nice door and home, so sanding should be done carefully. It also looks as if soneone applied a water-based clear finish to damaged wood; that is a poor choice.
If you use a clear finish, I would make it solvent-based. First two coats should be thinned as much as the label allows. Brand? Just pick a name brand. Be sure to recoat according to label instructions and not during hottest sun exposure. When the finish is CURED (not just dry), apply a clear caulk into the joint. The sill could probably use one or two more coats that the door since it will have more wear. Two,or three at most, should be plenty for the door.
If painting, sand as before. Then prime with oil primer (I think oil is better on exterior wood because it sinks into the grain a little better). When primer is set, apply paintable caulk along all seams, pressing into the seam and smoothing the surface. Two coats of semi-gloss alkyd paint from a good paint store.
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Norminn wrote:

Yes. South. Sun all day. Rain blows in with wind. Always sun. Always rain. So I need best protection I can give the door. Plus it must be darker.
Here is the picture taken just now showing it already being wet outside. http://www.freeimagehosting.net/7et4h
I see you said not to use water based. I will use what people suggest so no water based varnish.
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