Vinyl Siding Installation


I am handy and thinking about installing siding on a 1600 sq foot bilevel. Has anybody tackled a job like this the first time and would you do it again? thanks
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snipped-for-privacy@dva.state.wi.us wrote:

I once re sided a 20 x 20 garage .
The only problems I had was getting a nice join between two adjacent pieces of siding and getting the very top piece of siding in place. (it had to be cut horizontally to fit )
Cutting vinyl siding is a bit of a mess with a power saw .
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snipped-for-privacy@dva.state.wi.us says...

I just completed my 1500 SF bilevel, so pretty much the same size job. I built the 2 story addition new, and stripped the other part of the home to the bare walls, installed new windows and doors, so it was more of a new install than a re-side job. Re-siding is a bit harder as you have to trim out the windows, doors, etc. In a new install the windows and doors are ready to accept the siding.
Probably the hardest part for a beginner will be working the 2nd story parts. I use a pump jack setup, which I highly recommend instead of ladder jacks or scaffolds. Here is the type I use:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Basic-Qual-Craft-Steel-Pump-Jack-System-for-siding_W0QQitem Z300047688943QQihZ020QQcategoryZ61574QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
You will need to be able to bend aluminum trim if you are going to trim the window openings.
The Vinyl Siding Institute has nice online manuals at:
http://www.vinylsiding.org/publications/
-- Dennis
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snipped-for-privacy@SPAMwowway.com says...

I used rented staging for my current house (it's cedar siding, but...). The stuff is cheap here, $10/wk/section. IIRC it's about $20/month. I much prefer walking on staging than risking ladder or pump-jacks. One can set the saws and all up on the back side of the staging too.
--
Keith

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DT wrote:

Thanks that's a nice pdf.
I too am considering doing siding myself. Currently have aluminum siding that has problems. Permanent black pitted mold, dented and falling off in places.
Also want to replace the windows with Anderson new construction windows. So now is the time to replace siding.
Assume I would need to remove the old before installing the new.
Soffits don't appear to be that difficult either. My concern is the area under the porch. I guess it would be called facia. There are wooden horizontal supports that have been encased in aluminum. Looks like it would need a special tool to bend large pieces.
Wondering if I should just leave it exposed and paint it.
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If the basement is not finished, putting in a floor outlet would be about a 20 minute procedure.
--
Steve Barker



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Well!!, i guess i put that in the wrong thread! Sorry.
--
Steve Barker



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Not very difficult for a handy person. You need a few tools and a couple of ladders. If you are comfortable working on a ladder, can cut straight, hammer a nail, use a little common sense, you are good to go. Just get the first piece straight and level and the rest goes easy.
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snipped-for-privacy@dva.state.wi.us says...

I haven't done vinyl, but I did a bunch of vinyl-clad aluminum. Once the preliminaries were done it went up like a charm. Not one problem. It's not hard at all. Read the directions and perhaps a book or two.
--
Keith

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snipped-for-privacy@dva.state.wi.us wrote:

As others have said, it is no big mystery and anyone "handy" can do it. I reccommend the 'read up on it' first and if at all possible, watch a professional crew doing it for a few hours if they will let you.
As for bending trim. When I did my house (steel siding) the company I bought from loaned me a bending break at no charge.
Harry K
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I did my patio area, and like it a lot in that location. The only thing I would add to the already excellent advice is; use screws rather than nails, it goes nice and if you have to take it apart, it is a minor inconvienence, and you don't exen kill the siding I will do it again, I have to I want to change the size of the windows in a section already done, thank God I used screws.
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