Truck A/C Acting Up

I have a 1989 Nissan truck, 4 speed, 2.4 liter. It runs good but has developed a weak air conditioner. For a few weeks it was weeping or dripping a/c condensate water on the rubber mat on the passenger side on the floor inside. I looked several times to see if there was a quick fix but saw nothing. Today, the A/C went down to almost no cooling. It forced me to park it around in the sun (way over 100 degrees) and line up some sunlight into that area under the dash, to be able to see. I saw a rubber hose inside and below the dash had come loose, it was dripping water. I stuck the hose (end) back on and I could see that it was intended to drain or circulate that water into the fan area (to apparently cool the fan?). Anyway, now it runs and it cools a little. It makes no noise. The fan appears to work.
What probably "went out" on my truck a/c? Did I burn up the condenser? Or, would it recharge and be okay?
Another couple questions. This old truck is in real good shape and I'd like to keep this a/c as it is --not forcibly upgrade it to politically correct (bad) refrigerant. When I take it in for service, how do I avoid having them put in that new (bad) refrigerant? For instance, if they change the condenser, I want them to replace and recharge it with the old style refrigerant. Thanks anyone for ideas and suggestions.
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in order: A seal, no (and what part are you calling a condensor, since thats out in front of your radiator) and maybe.

New 134a isnt bad. What is bad, is when the conversion is done wrong. Yours uses R12, and its over $30 a pound now. There are other replacements that work fine...like R416a.
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This is Turtle.
Just a minute I'm hold my hand on the screen to get a reading here on the truck.
Hummmm , OK it 1 can of freon 12 low and holds 2.5 cans. Add a can and drive it and be happy.
Dealerships don't like to or don't know about any other freon except 134-A to be converted to. Your going to have to get a independant auto shop to stay with the R-12 system. CB spoke of the 406-A and may be a good one to switch to but nothing works like R-12.
TURTLE
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ScooterNDevon wrote:

You need to find a good independent speciality auto air shop in your area. If you stick with R12, you need to have the system in order. R12 is TOO expensive for a leaker. I would have the shop leak check the system. Find a shop that has a reclaimer that can remove your existing R12, filter it, and put it back in. And have them put in new orings on ALL the fittings. If your unlucky, the seal on the compressor shaft might be leaking, and require you to replace the compressor or have it rebuilt.
Don't let an automotive chain store touch it. Find a specialist. Be prepared to spend some bucks to have it done right.
Bob
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Thanks everyone for the help. I drained the water out of it, and it works a lot better.
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The dripping is probably unrelated to "no cooling".
They started to use the new new stuff in 1993. And it doesn't work very well in the old systems.
call around, and see if anyone has any R-12 left. Or if they have some of the new blends that directly replace R-12. I know of at least two replacements which work very well in old auto AC systems.
We have no way to know (for sure) through the newsgroup what the problem is. But from your description it sounds like the freon leaked out.
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I can help you with part of this. That little hose is the drain line from the evaporator coil drain pan. It goes through the firewall and hooks 90 degrees toward the ground.
If you have some cooling most likely you just need a leak check and freon added. Give it a day or two before you do anything. The old R-12 can still be purchased. Avoid the new crap like the plague for an old system. I'm not even convinced that Nissan managed to make an AC134 system that worked for the pick ups before 1997 or so. I am on my third evap coil for my 1996. And the last guy that fixed it said he has replaced a lot of them.
Colbyt
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