synthetic motor oil

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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

So you don't notice the difference between new Iridium plugs and worn out old ones? Ever compared two under high power mag. glass? I replace them when clock hits 100K Km.
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wrote:

You can tell the difference between worn out and new, for sure. The difference between new standard plug and new "gee-whiz high tech" plugs, not likely - unless like with My PT cruiser it misfired with Champion Iridiums and ran great on standard dual platinums - or like several renault powered LeSharo motor homes that I ran across that ran like crap on Bosch platinums, and ran great on ACs..
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wrote:

The belt should have been done by then, hence my point.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

That is water pump, valve gap adjustment. Tune up is separate service.
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wrote:

A lot of mechanics will look at the plugs when doing a "major" service like that and throw in new ones if they are needed - at no extra labour charge. For a good customer, some dealers will even throw in the cost of the plugs as part of the "deal".
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Around here the dealer even charges for the rags the mechanic uses.
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On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 18:28:19 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"

They always do that (shop charge, environmental charge etc) I made them throw all of that into the grand. I still had to pay the tax tho. You CAN wheel and deal with the service writer.
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On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:11:37 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Generally the writer hasn't got much wiggle room, but as the service MANAGER I did.
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On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 20:27:18 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

The dealers around here seem to let the service writers and even the salesmen throw in oil change chits, car washes and all sorts of other things that are a minimal cost to the dealer. I did take a bit of selling to agree to $600 more than the guy up at the end of my street but I did feel better having the dealer doing it. They did sweeten the pot tho with a lot of other stuff. I think the only thing I really talked them out of was the shop charges. It also helped that I was off season and they had a lot of guys sitting around polishing their wrenches.
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On 2/4/2016 6:28 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

They all used to just include that in the price as the cost of doing business. Some marketing a=hole came up with the idea to add 3% to the bill for that stuff.
In parts of Italy some restaurant started adding a charge for using the plates and silverware called Coperto.
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wrote:

They also did crank shaft seals and a laundry list of other little things. They really have to do some selling to get me to pay $1000 for a belt job my local mechanic quoted $400 for. I suppose I may still have the receipt here somewhere but I thought it would be just about anything I could think of.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Not true unless you have a reader/scanner costing like couple Gs. Cheap code reader can't read all the codes(generic, manufacturer specific, ABS, SRS). Nail the bad part? Some times yes. Not 99% of time. You're so simplistic big time. If you short something fooling around Poof! ECU goes. Then how much for replacement? I have a mid level updatable reader/scanner. Telling you from own experience. My back is in electronics. Even taught 12V electronics at local tech college as a volunteer. I help neighbors when they have CEL on their dash.

Timing is fixed? wrong. ECU adjusts timing real time back and forth.

Can be done with additional option if driver wants it. Why bother MID will tell oil status, color yellow or red with message. When you have red, watch out.
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wrote:

For all the engine specific codes a cheap scanner is all you need. For ABS and a lot of other specific codes, there are readers out there for a few hundred dollars that will get most of them When you want to get in and control things, like exercising the ABS, or exercise the IAC valve, you need the full-on professional units.

The "mechanic" still needs to have a functioning brain and needs to understand how things are SUPPOSED to work. The scanner just tells you what computer inputs are wrong - you still need to figure out what caused those inputs to be wrong. Could be the sensor itself, or could be something causing what the sensor senses to be out of spec.

You need to know what you are doing - just like you needed to know what you were doing to adjust a carburetor, or automatic choke.
All in all maintaining today's vehicles is MUCH simpler, because they require only a fraction of the maintenance older cars needed. Repairs can be simpler too - it;s just the diagnosis has gotten a lot more involved.

The timing is "fixed" as in YOU cannot adjust it - and it never needs adjusting.

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wrote:

I have had cars with ECUs in them since the end of the Carter administration and the code nailed the problem virtually every time. Maybe I am just careful enough not to "short something fooling around" so I didn't ever blow an ECU. I have been in the computer biz since 1965 so I am not intimidated by something as simple as the processor(s) in a car.

As far as the user is concerned, it is fixed.

You still need to get to the filler neck ;-)
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wrote:

Words to live by.
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On 2/4/2016 12:50 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Usually not a good idea to let them borrow things too.
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On 2/4/16 11:09 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Yup, and that was the last time I ever did that!
--
It takes 20 years to build a reputation and five minutes to ruin it. If
you think about that, you’ll do things differently.
  Click to see the full signature.
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Wade Garrett posted for all of us...

That is why I never do business with coworkers, friends or neighbors. Selective memory.
--
Tekkie

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On 2/3/2016 8:17 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

My '66 Chevelle got 16 mpg and that was on turnpike driving.
My first, a 10 year old '49 Chevy used a quart of both antifreeze and oil every week. We did not measure mileage then.
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My 67 was more like 8-10 on the beltway but I was turning about 4400 RPM It would do the first quarter mile in about 14.5 seconds tho.
(327 325hp with a Muncie M22 and 456 rear) It was actually the 350HP Corvette motor with the Holley dual feed, factory high rise manifold and low restriction exhaust.
This was an out of the box drag racer that was competitive in the street stock small block class, cleverly disguised in a convertible body with wood trim and no outward indication that it was bad. Except for the loping idle and the 2.25" exhaust pipes.
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