Snapper Walk Behind Mowers??

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Do any of you have any experience with farily late model, self propelled, walk behind Snapper mowers?
I saw one last month (in another State, on vacation), that I have interest in. It was about 7 HP, self propelled, and 21 inch cut. Price was in $500 range I think.
If you have one, how well do you like it ?? Is the mower blade attached to the shaft, or is it belt driven?
I have to cut in areas where I am prone to hit large rocks, and I am concerned about bending the shaft it is directly connected. I am also interesting in how well the self propel mechanism is. I have a much older mower that has a very simple friction spline that pinches up against the rear tire. It doesn't work very well, especially when it gets wet.
Thanks for any comments !!
--James--
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In some places you end up mowing rocks on occsion whether you want or not ...
Just leave the lawn a bit longer. Saves a lot of trouble with the mower.
Maren
Napalm Heart wrote:

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How about gathering up the rocks and building a wall with them?
--
Rich Greenberg Marietta, GA, USA richgr atsign panix.com + 1 770 321 6507
Eastern time. N6LRT I speak for myself & my dogs only. VM\'er since CP-67
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All small movers I have seen are blade direct on the shaft, cut higher and get rid of the rocks or ruin the mower.
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I want lawn mower information, not knucklehead juvenile responses.
--James--
---------------------------------
How about gathering up the rocks and building a wall with them?
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Cow or sheep brand, good on rocks. OK only a knuckle head would want a lawnmower to run over rocks
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James wrote:

Actually he was very much on subject. Clean up the rocks then you can determine which mower is best to mow the GRASS.
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In Usenet, you get what you get. If you insist on trying to mow rocks, you might try a DR mower.

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James wrote:

You are the knucklehead for running over the same rocks over and over again.
--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8b
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Lawnboy had a selfpropel like that a friction spline but i have a new lawnboy that has a belt drive much better no slippage in wet grass

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Lawnboys blade is direct on the shaft, He wants a mower that the blade isn`t solid to the mover so he wont ruin the crankshaft when he hits rocks. As another poster maybe DR has a string trimmer type, but I believe it is a brush cutter and wont give a great looking lawn.
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If it has a BS engine, it is garbage.-Jitney
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Naw, B & S is super. I have used many of them for many years.
A darned good engine.
--James--
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That's been my experience.
Ken
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a lot of times it is not the engine it is the service they receive

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B&S have different grades of motors they are all good , better than techumpsee, but it is who takes care of them that matters
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Ok, don't cut rocks. Rocks are not lawn. Snapper does not manufacture a rock cutter.
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thingie:

Snappers are great mowers, but no mower will do very well for very long with rocks. They will modify the mower.
Remember the kids game "rock breaks scissors"? There is a sound physics principle that would also apply to your scenario. (No no, I don't mean covering the rocks with paper.)
I humbly suggest removing the rocks or changing their shape to be well below the blade of the mower. I know, a lot of work, but think how nice it will be to mow without the worry.
Steve at SELLCOM
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Goedjn wrote:

I would suggest that if they have the money, they certainly can choose to wreck as many blades and mowers as they want. It may not be the choice brighter people would make, but if they've got the money, let them waste it.
--
Warren H.

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Rubble fields do not make good meadows. If you can't set the cutting blades on the mower high enough to miss the rocks, then (A) Switch to a sickle-bar mower, (B) Truck in dirt to bury the rocks, and then clear them over the years as they float to the surface. (C) fence the area and buy about 3 sheep and a goat. (D) Build a dam and flood the area every couple years, drowning the plants that you don't like. (E) Clear the perimeter, mow that, and burn the middle off. Plant blueberries.
--Goedjn
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