sloped metal roof for a woodshed

[beerguzzler50]

I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36" each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live in Northeast.

[longshot]

you think that woosie roof can withstand a 30" snowfall?

[beerguzzler50]

messagenews: [e-mail]...

[SteveF]

I'm just getting ready to build a couple of standing sheds and have never used metal roofing before but every one I've looked at to get ideas from has

1x4s installed flat across the top of the 2x4s on 24" centers and the metal sheets are attached to that. Seems like that makes the roof substantially stronger and that's how I'm going to build the roof support structure on mine.

Steve.

[beerguzzler50]

messagenews: [e-mail]...

have never

[Chas Hurst]

I have an attached shed with a metal roof using rafters 16"oc and 1x3 purlins 12"oc. The roof is screwed down every other purlin. Spacing the purlin farther apart (as in 24"oc) makes installing the roof difficult as stepping on the roof inbetween the purlins will damage it. I used no drip edge, just extended the roof an inch or so past the fascia. Did you mean 3/12 pitch, you have 3/21 typed?

[beerguzzler50]

oops, yes I mean 3/12. I'm thinking of 24oc on the rafters and 16oc on the purlins.

So with no drip edge and the edge of the roof an > I have an attached shed with a metal roof using rafters 16"oc and 1x3

messagenews: [e-mail]...

[beerguzzler50]

oops, yes I mean 3/12. I'm thinking of 24oc on the rafters and 16oc on the purlins.

So with no drip edge and the edge of the roof an inch over, you don't have any issues with water getting on the fascia?

messagenews: [e-mail]...

[Chas Hurst]

No issues, water might get blown onto the fascia, but it's clad in color co-ordinated aluminum.

16"oc for the purlins would be better than 24". You would still need to carefull where you stand when installing the roof to avoid buckling it.

[Jonny]

Depends which metal roof form you mean, could be flat or corrugated. The parallel horizontal sides are no problem either type (if the corrugated type has rafter tie-ins at the terminating walls parallel with the corrugations), just the terminated inclined sides with corrugated type.

The corrugated type, if you want to keep out small birds etc., should have some coverage to seal out all. I used blocking on the 2X4 rafter terminations at each inclined wall end. Then, black mastic (roof repair cement) along the corrugations paralle with the wall. Then backfilled inside with spray insulation foam. Made it airtight as outbuilding served as a wellhouse. One 40W light bulb keeps it warm enough in winter (central TX).

I know you meant 3 on 12, so didn't ask. I would go with steeper roof.

[beerguzzler50]

Well, I'm not concerned with bird, etc. I am more concerned with water coming in on the high side of the slant roof. Mostly with the raises in teh steel roofing. I am not using the wavy barn roofing, but the colored steel roofing that has ridges every 8 or 12". I figure I will use a drip edge on the fascia, but don't want water running down the raised ridges.