***********> What if you have brick for both the exterior walls and sills?
I did one last spring. The old 1970's, single-hung, builder grade, specials.
These are a bit more difficult that a standard replacement window where you
just take out the movable sashes and put the unit in place.
To to it right on the hard-weather side of the house 2-4 hours if you have
alll the materials and tools on site when you start. For sure less than $100
worth of materials exclusive of the window.
In my case the "gottcha" was it could not all be done in one day because
there was a little mortar that needed to be tuck-pointed into place. I also
wrapped all the exterior wood that I installed. I took quite a few pictures
and do plan to write an article on that because I could find very little on
the web with pictures to assist me.
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com
On Feb 22, 11:22 pm, snipped-for-privacy@SPAMwowway.com (DT) wrote:
re: Fitting new construction windows will mean removing the exterior
trim at least.
The same may hold true for replacement windows.
When I removed the aluminum storms during a window replacement project
last fall, it resulted in a gap between the aluminum trim and the
exterior stops of almost a 1/2". The trim had been applied when the
house was vinyl sided and was installed up against the pre-existing
storms. I could have just caulked the gap, but I think it would have
I removed the trim, took out the spacers and slid the trim right up
against the stops. I don't think I could have afforded the labor
required to do this on 12 windows, since cleaning off the old caulk,
making new spacers and other tasks easily added an hour or more to
each window. However, the finished product looks so much better than a
1/2" of caulk would have.
One other item that I don't think anyone has mentioned is the type of
windows currently installed in the 60 YO house. My house is 52 YO and
it had pocket windows. There were no sash weights or gaps to insulate.
If not for the extra work I did on the exterior of the house, my
project would have been as simple as "rip-out old, slip in new" -
which is what I expect an installer would have done unless I
contracted for, and paid for, the extra work.
Smarty, I'd say it depends on why you are replacing them? If it's for
energy efficiency (say the old ones are single pane etc) but that the frames
are fine, then replacements will do well as long as the frame 'fits' the new
ones. That would be my first check.
Are you planning to do it yourself? Or have a contractor? We had some done
by a contractor who did a wonderful job.
Thanks to all of you for truly excellent advice! I have learned a lot from
your replies, and the brochures from Andersen, Marvin, and others really
fail to touch on several of these very legitimate issues, especially
regarding the compromise in energy / heat loss due to using replacement
windows in older construction.
Many thanks again!
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.