I have just returned from shopping for windows to replace old, damaged
windows in my 60 year old home.
Both brands I have looked at, Marvin and Anderson, offer either "new
construction" windows which demand that the interior casing and trim be
removed, or "replacement" windows which fit into the interior opening
creating by removing only some of the original window.
The big advantage of the "replacement" windows is that they do not require
paint, wallpaper, and possibly bathroom marble wall trim repairs /
replacements, whereas the "new" style forces the interior rework.
Am I giving up anything by using the "replacement" style?? They certainly
are preferable from an installation simplicity perspective.
Thanks for any opinions and comments in advance.
Had new Replacement windows :Renewal by Anderson installed last year.
Windows are great had some minor issues with installation that were handled
quickly. Follow up was great after all issues cleared. These windows are NOT
CHEAP not sure if you pay for holds true for everyone In my case I feel cost
There was a local company advertising a brand of window with "10% (?)
more viewing area than typical replacement windows". I don't recall
the brand, but it's winter so they're not advertising right now. Ask
around at contractor supply houses or "window and door" stores. I
doubt anybody at the borgs would know about any specialty brands.
A lot will depend on the quality of the installers. If they just cover
up damaged or rotted wood in your old bucking your new windows will
not be as secure as they should be. I would want to be there watching
and looking at the rough openings when the old windows come out.
I am not sue how home inspectors evaluate replacement windows but if
they get a bad name in that community it could affect resale value,
whether the concern was valid or not.
I had some quality replacement windows installed last year. I was
talking to one of the installers and mentioned that I heard of people
replacing windows in relatively new houses, i.e. less than 10 years old.
His comment was that windows were probably not installed right in the
first place. In my experience with building inspectors, if as a home
owner you get a permit to do something, an inspector will hound you.
OTOH, if you are a builder, inspectors visits are infrequent and
mistakes are quickly covered up by builders so inspectors don't see them.
A replacement is fine. Some will have nail fins others will not. The
replacement window will require least demo in the work area.
Ensure you have repaired any "moisture wrap", tucked, secured on the
exterior. If the replacement has nail fins, lay a good bead of
silicone caulk along the opening edge and nail the fins.
Think of how the water flows outside along the moisture barrier, so to
keep away from and down the wall. not leaking at the window.
Yes, you're giving up a lot. When your original windows were installed, it
is possible, even likely given that your house is 60 years old, that they
did not insulate between the window frame and house framing. Significant
energy loss occurs there. Just replacing the sash won't correct that.
Tear them out down to the frame and do it right.
Rather than 30 minutes and $3 in material, you can be talking many hours and
new siding to do the job right. The answer varies according to construction
I've sold and installed many replacement windows. You take out the side
stiles and sash weights and insulate.
Installing replacement windows is easily a DIY job that is going to make the
house more livable and you can save a bundle of money. I'd make the
equivalent of about $80 $90 an hour in today's money.
Actually the new construction windows in a frame home may require a lot more
than interior work.
In a brick home your statement is accurate in most cases.
If your exterior sills and trim are in sound condition, this is a toss-up
and the replacement type may be an acceptable choice for you.
If you have any rotten sills or exterior casings, new construction clad
windows may be the better choice.
I have done it both ways depending on the circumstances.
Gives us a few more details.
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com
Hi Colby, nice beginning site! I saw a few where the header had 'aticle' vs
'article'. I liked the part on electrical outlet replacement. Nice and
Perhaps I'll add an article or so for you to look at. Is there any specific
one you are looking for? If I have skills in that area, I might try.
I will check for the typos. Thanks for the information.
Any and all contributions are welcome even if they have a different "take"
on something I have written. Empty categories would be of the most interest.
I have several drywall ones that I not finalized yet.
I don't have a formal form yet for submitting an article.
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com
I just posted on on 'garage shelf project article'. You are welcome to lift
that one out if it's of use! I presume you need 'permission' so here it is.
You are welcome to snag that and I'll even repeat it here for you:
I assume the home organization area fits best?
If you need my name, I have no problem posting it. Carol Shenkenberger.
Credits not required unless you want to. ;-)
Here's another I got a long time ago and works nicely in my somewhat crowded
garage for a craft table that can be lowered out of the way in winter to
make room for the car. It's perfect if you have a longish car and a
shortish garage so need that extra space at the end. This lets you use that
space for a table for crafting when you can leave the car out. Thats most
of the year where we are!
Skill level minimal but will need second person to hold things. Second
person can be a kid if they can hold up the parts for you while you nail.
Third person optional but easier. Mostly you need the extra person when
first attaching to the studs. This is a winner to intro kids to a little
project. Estimate 30 mins time.
Tools and parts: old solid wood door (not too warped) or other wood about
same size (28-32inches by 6ft roughly). 6-8ft of 2x3 or 1x2. 2-3 large
heavy duty long thin hinges with 4 or more nail holes each 'leaf' (one per
stud for the area that the door will hang, more is better). 2 smaller long
thin but heavy hinges for the 'legs'. Nails, hammer, saw, pencil or magic
Use an old (hopefully solid) wood door with a flat surface. You can use
plywood or pressboard also but they may be more prone to warpage over time.
Pressboard especially so.
Use 'worst side' as bottom. If there is a hole where a knob was, design so
that is towards the wall. Place door propped against wall and use marker or
pencil to mark where the heavy big hinges will attach to the studs. Attach
these to the 'door'.
Now lift door (need second person and 3rd is optimal) and attach hinges to
studs so that it swings down pretty much flush to the wall. How high
depends on how tall you (or wife) wants it for easy work. If she plans to
sew there, you'll want it low enough for a chair yet high enough to stand
and work a pattern on with comfort. If you are going to do much 'crafting'
there, please use a level to make sure you get it as even as you can.
Next, lift 'door' up and measure off 2 'legs' for each corner. 1x2 will
work but we used 2x3 as we had it. I held the door and Don used a level then
a pencil to mark the wood. Cut then using smaller hinges, attach these
pieces so they fold up towards the center. Depending on how high you went,
you may need to place one of the 'legs' inwards vs just at the corner so
they fold neatly without running into each other. When stowed flush to the
wall, this takes up about 3 inches but when folded out, gives a nice big
Now you have a fine little extra table for crafting, sewing, kids projects
that are messy, etc. If you have some old linoleum or sheet vinyl to glue
or nail on top, it becomes easy cleanup too and I've been known to use it
for rolling out bread dough after cleaning it up first since I have limited
Expansion ideas on this: If you plan to put a sewing machine on the table,
use 2 legs on each side (2 of them more towards the center and offset from
each other as above if needed). If using center legs (IE: 4 of them) get
some small 1/2 inch or so trim wood (anything spare you have laying around)
and use this nailed on the underside to 'bolster' the center legs so that
they will not sag in time when stowed since the legs are attached just with
hinges at the top. This makes a fine light crafting table but is not
suitable for really heavy equipment.
Absolutely. Fitting new construction windows will mean removing the exterior
trim at least. If you have vinyl or aluminum siding you may have to remove
siding depending on how the siding is trimmed to the existing windows. If you
have wood siding you will probably have to recut the siding in place all around
the window and construct new wider trim to cover the nailing flange and trim
out to the newly cut siding.. And much depends on how closely you can match the
new windows to the original sizes.
What if you have brick for both the exterior walls and sills? Apparently
replacement windows are offered to be installed both from the inside as well
as the exterior openings. Can anybody give me a rough estimate of how many
hours of total labor would be involved to install one replacement double
hung window roughly 54" high and about 30 inches wide in a brick opening
which previously held an aluminum double hung window? What is a typical cost
for the labor to put in a window like this?
Again, many thanks,
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.