I have an idea for outdoor security lighting. I'd like to mount a number of regular incandescent lights to illuminate the place like a prison yard under certain circumstances. I want a normal wall switch someplace, probably near one of the doors. But, I'd also like to be able to kick the lights on by remote control from the bedside. Based on the plan I have in mind, the system would need to handle about 3000 watts worth of bulbs. Can't seem to locate the hardware needed to do this. Anyone know of a source?
They use a 3 pole 30a contactor to control the lights in model homes, one pole per 15a circuit controlled. (100% overkill on the contacts) That would control 4350 watts of lights with 3 zones @ 80%.
Umm....no. It's called smart. I was awakened two weeks back by running footsteps outside the bedroom at 3:00 AM. The running stopped, a brief conversation took place, followed by more running. Five minutes later, someone's alarm siren began sounding.
My logic: I really dislike paperwork. I'd rather have someone leave than come in the house. If I need to introduce them to Jeeeeeeezus, I suspect the paperwork will be outrageous.
Many homes have some sort of useless lights outside, but burglars still do a brisk business. The reasons are obvious: The lights don't illuminate anything helpful. Matter of fact, they usually blind the homeowner and the cops (when they arrive). And, they come on every night at the same time, which, to anyone observant, does not indicate any sort of consciousness controlling things. On the other hand, if lights come on when an intruder arrives, it may or may not be due to a motion sensor. If an intruder is willing to accept 50/50 odds of finding someone home, then an important piece of information has just been given to the homeowner.
Thanks. I can never remember their name. I usually have at least one spare electrical part hanging on the pegboard with their name on it, but not today.
The problem with using an x-10 motion sensor is that after a preset time, any sensor that has "expired" sends the OFF signal, and all of the outdoor floodlights would turn off, even if you sent the on command yourself, rather than automatically.
I would use standard motion sensors and wire them up on a 3-wire system, with the 3rd switchleg connected common to every motion sensor's output and every bulb. Then you can connect up to 300 watts (or more depending on the brand of sensors) of compact flourescent floodlight bulbs. (About 12-15 CFL'S with the equivalant output of 10 150 watt incandescent floodlights)
A 2-wire cable between the black & red could act as a instant-on "bypass" to activate the lights whenever needed and keep them on.
I don't want motion sensors. Just two switches: One on the wall, and one remote control. Motion sensors will become annoying when *I* want to step outside and enjoy the sky.
Most burglaries occur during the daytime, not at night. The reason is simple - most homes are empty during the day, and occupied at night. Given the choice, most burglars would rather not have to confront a homeowner.
I can do exactly that with the X-10 system. I have a bunch of lights controlled by it. Some on timers, some manual. All timers can be overridden.
I like the button for "all lights on" when I hear a noise. Lights both in and out of the house come on with one push of a button. I have two controllers, one timer, one remote, and my car can turn two lights on. You can turn the light on at one control, off at another or any combination.
Look at it this way: Depending on whose stats you believe regarding gun ownership in this area, it's possible that 40% of homes have a gun inside, ready to use. Now, if someone enters your house knowing those odds, I choose to call them insane, as opposed to rational and reasonable. I don't see this as fear. I see it as acceptance of reality. If someone's willing to accept those odds in return for a VCR and some jewelry, they are asking to be ended. The only polite thing to do is to grant them their wish.
A 3 way wired switch may be best, my, x-10 only take 5-600 watts a module. They may have higher watt units avalaible, but 3000 is alot. Consider Halogen tube 500 watt rectangular floodlight fixtures.
1800-2000 watts should give the same light output or more due to the reflector and design. You need to experiment a few good high output fixtures may do all you need . Either way X -10 is expandable.
Agreed. A couple of 500 or 1000 watt Halogen fixtures will be cheap, instant on when needed, and bright. X10 modules are available for control, but make sure that they are the ones capable of handling high current. Consider some motion sensors as well because you might not always be awake to hear the bad guys.
A conventional switch is better if you just had one point as your control, but since you have two, you might have to consider other options. A conventional 3 way switch in both locations and on a 20A circuit would work. Adding a pilot light at both locations would be a nice touch.
For a little more money, you could put in a contactor with a 30 AMP switch or more for the lighting circuit. The noise of the relay slamming in would be additional benefit to startle the intruders.
In my neighborhood (in Oregon) just having guns in the house is no deterent. For one thing, just about everyone has guns around here and guns are what the burglars are looking for in many cases.
On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 11:00:17 -0800, Doug Kanter wrote (in article ):
Doug -
My outside floodlights are not quite "prison yard", but I do have a few of them. Each group (Side, Back, Deck, etc.) is on an X10 switch. So are the entry lights by the doors and garage. That gives a lot of options. Using an X10 timer and dawn-to-dusk sensor, I can have the entry lights on from dusk to 2:00am (or whatever). And I can turn everything on with the "All Lights On" control.
You could mount an "All Lights On" switch by the front door and another by the bed. They can be hardwired or wireless, as well, which makes installation easier.
For a residential installation, I'd recommend you consider that solution, just for flexibility.
You can also use industrial-type lighting contactors. Here's an example of one rated for 20A tungsten:
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In your application, you would power the lights with 2 20A branch circuits, each controlled by one of these contactors. The contactors would be installed at some convenient place, perhaps next to the service panel. The control circuit (which can be either 24VAC from a transformer or 120VAC) would get run to switches at whatever locations you wanted. If you use the low-voltage coil version, then your control wiring would be easier to run.
Assuming that the X10 solution would require 6 switches and two controllers, and probably a signal bridge, it appears the cost would be lower to use the contactors.
Halogen are apx 25 30% more efficient than Incandesant, Sodium vapor apx 75-80 % more efficient than incandesant, but require warm up time . Quick on, minimal wiring , fixtures etc go big Halogen 300- 500- 1000 w , the lenses are job specific and with increased efficiency will light well. Sodium require warm up , but can Blind with lumens avalaible, but cost and are designed for alot of use.
A 500 watt Halogen fixture flood will illuminate like 1000w of ' Flood " incandesant sealed 5" bulbs, increased efficiency in one unit concentrated light.
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