Woops. That sounds far more ominous than your
original description, which sounded like you had
turned off the supply in the fall. It sounds like
there's a good chance of a burst. Still, if it were
me I'd wait until Spring. If it's burst the damage
is done. Unless you want to open up the inside
wall to check it, there's not much to be done.
They are 100% freeze proof if installed according to the included
instructions, and used as directed (remove the hose)
A self draining freezeproof "hydrant" is the idiot-proof version -
well not completely iniot proof because you still have to follow the
directions - and close the valve ALL the way, so it opens the external
drain. If you only close it far enough to shut off the water, and
leave the hose connected, you are virtually guaranteed to split
No, there is another effective way. Install a drainable shutoff, Shut
off the water, open the silcock. Remove the drain cap or open the
drain valve. Applu compressed air to blow out the line. Close the
silcock and the drain.It's called "blowing out the lines" and is
standard procedure for winterizing camper trailers and seasonal
vacation homes, as well as irrigation systems.
On Sat, 17 Jan 2015 17:32:49 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Another "trick" to reduce the likelihood of freeze-damaging copper
pipe is to use annealed copper tubing. Either buy the stuff in a roll
or anneal your own Type K (or possibly L). It is pliable enough in
annealed state to withstand freezing, and can handle several
freeze-thaw cycles before it work hardens enough to split.
I'm not much of a gardener anyhow. I think I only use water in the back
yard the first summer after I plant a tree, which is only not often.
And since I got 100 feet of garden hose, it's long enough to reach the
back and I've stopped using the back yard faucet.
But yes, I drain the front yard faucet every year. Except a couple
years I was depressed and didn't think of it in time. That's when I
bought the foam covers, and one time I left the water dripping slowly.
I don't know. But it only takes once to make me very unhappy.
I've been meaning to talk to a few neighbors. In townhouses things are
almost the same from house to house. But I've only talked to one so
far, a woman in her 70's I think, and she does what I do every year.
Someday maybe I'll remember to ask others.
I'm pretty sure I didn't say that. If the sheetrock or whatever is on
the garage side is getting wet, I think he has no choice but ot open the
As I said, I don't think that matters. It only means it won't leak
until he turns the inside valve back on, and he could leave it off
forever, but if I were in his shoes, I'd turn it on and hope there was
no leak. And I'd rather have the use of the faucet even if it meant
opening up the garage wall.
I think the odds a wet spot woudl show up are high, 40 to 1.
Well if there is a leak but it never shows up, those who know me will
know that I'd just forget about it**. Well I'd assume there is no
leak if it never shows up.
**Here's a related example. When I first bought this house, the
bathtub upstairs would sometimes leak down the chain that's part of the
dining room light fixture. It wouldn't drip on the table, it would
collect in the glass sphere around the light bulb, and unless the light
was on, I could barely tell and never actually noticed, even though it
was as much as 2" deep. It may have even reached the lightbulb the
first time, but the bulb never broke. Mostly it seemed to happen when
my brother visited and took showers. Baths didn't seem to cause this.
3 of the 10 neighbors I visited over the years had had repairs to their
dining room ceiling because of the same thing. .
Since I took baths most of the time, I ignored it, and eventually it
stopped even when someone took a shower. I figure the dirt and dead
skin from our bodies plugged the leak. If I ever do have to rip that
apart, whether I do it myself or pay someone, I hope I remember to find
that leak and fix it.
On Sat, 17 Jan 2015 08:31:35 -0800 (PST), trader_4
I get it. I didn't look hard enough to see if there was something on
the end to keep the water inside.
Yes, that was my point.
I have a hose reel, with a crank, something I've admired since I was 8
years old. A couple years ago, there was a pinhole in the integral
pipe. I've tried a couple things to stop it. I also have tried to buy
a replacment just like the original, so I won't have to drill other
holes I even saved the box it came in in t he attic, so I know just
what to look for.
But there are almost no metal hose holders or reels for sale anymore,
and for sure not my model
Anyhow, I disconnect the reel from the spigot and I wind everything up,
take off the nozzle at the end, and then spin the reel in the right
direction about 80 times, about 20 or 30 times after the water stops
coming out. There still might be a trifle water in the bottoms of the
loops, but not enough to damage the hose.
If there's already a pinhole, it's probably very thin a lot of other
places. But otherwise it's fine. I'm curious to see how long I can
keep this thing working.
| > So the only
| >way to rule out Rube Goldberg is to rip out the wall.)
| No, there is another effective way. Install a drainable shutoff, Shut
| off the water, open the silcock. Remove the drain cap or open the
| drain valve. Applu compressed air to blow out the line. Close the
| silcock and the drain.It's called "blowing out the lines" and is
| standard procedure for winterizing camper trailers and seasonal
| vacation homes, as well as irrigation systems.
I think you're confusing matters. First
you talked about messed up plumbing in a
barn. Now you're talking about housing with
no heat. This is a heated a house with a
pipe in the outside wall that may be frozen.
You would put a drain valve in the cellar,
then blow out the pipe with compressed air?
What good will that do if the pipe has burst?
And if it hasn't burst in all these years when
the inside valve was shut off, why would you
think a drain valve is needed now?
Millions of houses in
the US are fine in the winter without needing
special drain valves. I've never even seen
such a valve. I've also never seen water in
a pipe freeze except where the supply was
turned on in a section of pipe *and* that pipe
was cold enough to freeze. In other words,
most people just turn off their inside shutoffs
in the winter. The OP is not dealing with a barn
or irrigation system or trailer or unheated house.
How cold does it get???
Up here in Central Ontario the draining shutoff was standard equipment
before the frost-free became common
But he IS dealing with an "unheated area" with a water pipe in it.
If it has not frozen in the past he is LIKELY safe - but then again,
he has generally turned off the water and opened the tap before
freeze-up - and this year apparently he did not - and he's worried.
On Saturday, January 17, 2015 at 10:30:52 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It was standard here too, in NJ. Now all new construction I've seen uses
freezeproof sillcocks. Might be required in code, IDK.
Maybe true. A lot of people drive around talking on their cell phones
too. Millions of them don't have accidents. But a significant percentage
do. And I'll bet a significant percentage of installs without a drain
wind up screwed too. As another poster pointed out, what matters is if
the water can and will run out of the pipe after it's shut off. He gave
an example of capillary action, holding water in a straw. The drain on
the valve takes care of that too. Other pipes are
installed with a slight pitch into the house, because of oversight, something
was in the way, etc. So, how lucky do you feel?
Water being turned on has little to do with it. The pipe
being filled with water is the most important part. What
happens if you put a glass bottle full of water in a freezer?
When you winterize a house, do you just shut off the water
or do you drain or put antifreeze in everything? That includes
sink P traps, toilets, etc.
In other words,
Agree. It only takes once. A friend with a house that's only
8 years old had a problem last winter. The condensate trap froze on
the furnace in the attic, busted and started leaking. (that's another
example with no water supply being turned on) There was no heat tape, it was clearly installed incorrectly. But it was fine for 6 years, until it got
to single digits and the temp was set back far enough so the furnace didn;t
run for long enough to allow it to freeze, etc.
UPDATE: Thanks everyone. I turned on the water in the basement and the soun
d of water going through the pipe came to a stop. Then I heated the pipe in
the basement with a heat gun and used a laser thermometer to determine tha
t the heated water wasn't moving toward the spigot. So, unless it's a slow
leak I think I'm OK. I then shut off the valve in the basement, opened the
small drain cap, opened the spigot in the garage, and that should remove a
ny further danger of water freezing in the pipe.
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