OT Buying a new truck

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Last time I was looking at cars I was going to take the advice you offer above. Then I decided against it and bought new.
Sure, you want a fair deal, but sometimes I'm willing to pay more to get what I want. One financial mistake I make is buying the top of the line. My Buick is the Limited, by Sonata is also the Limited. They cost more than the base model and you have more goodies in it. For every dollar the top model costs over the base models, I'm probably getting a 50 value.
I looked at one of the "program" cars the local Buick dealer had. It was OK, but the first thing I noticed was the burn hole in the seat. My car never had a lit cigarette in it., never will. Looked at some used cars, but the price seemed high considering the miles already used up.
I also keep cars for a long time (there have been exceptions) but if I'm going to drive a car for 15 years, I want and I'm willing to pay for certain features. I want the color I want, the options I want and I'm willing to pay for them. I also pay $10 a month for XM radio in one car. That works out to about 25 an hour to listen to non-commercial radio. Yes, I thought it would be silly to pay for radio that can be had for free, but I was hooked after a week of the free trial. I spend enough time in the car that I am willing to pay for it. At least in my primary vehicle, not the secondary.
If all you want is transportation, buy used, by cheap. If you want some comfort along the way, you have to be willing to pay a bit more. Repair costs are also a consideration. In the past five years, aside from normal maintenance, my total repair costs was $300. Buying cars with 40k miles already on them, that number would probably be higher.
You pays your money, you make your choice.
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wrote:

$6000. Generally, other than tires, brakes and oil changes I spend less than $500 a year - closer to 300. And I drive them up to 12 years before getting rid of them. The last couple years the price goes up
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2011 12:16:24 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@example.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

IF you are going to be financing the car AND the dealer is offering zero percent financing. You can often buy the new car for the same or less money than a 2 year old used car at bank finance rates.
If you are paying CASH, a new car NEVER makes financial sense.
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wrote:

That doesn't mean that buying a new car is a good idea -- only that it might be a less bad, bad idea, than buying a two year old used car.
If the dealer is offering zero percent financing, you can bet that he's making his money some other way -- like not cutting you much of a break on the price.

It doesn't matter HOW you're paying. It's still not a sound financial decision. Let someone *else* pay the depreciation, and buy the car after it's lost 1/3 to 1/2 of its value.
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2011 01:45:21 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@example.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

May as well let it loose 75% of it's value, or more.
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wrote:

That depends largely on how skilled you are at making your own repairs. I've been doing the vast majority of my own service for 35 years (including engine and transmission rebuilds), so buying older, high-mileage vehicles does not daunt me. The newest used car I've ever bought was five years old; the oldest, nineteen. Average about ten.
With any used vehicle, there's a point where cost of repair has a greater influence on total cost of ownership than does the initial purchase cost. If you have to pay someone else to do your repairs, that point comes earlier in the vehicle's life. For those folks who can't do their own repairs, it's likely to be somewhere around 40-50% depreciation. I'm quite content to buy at 75% depreciation, but then, I pay only the cost of parts for nearly all my repairs.
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2011 12:23:14 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@example.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

By the time my 6 year old Chysler was 18 years old I had done a valve/guide job, replaced the exhaust, and replaced the transmission, as well as 2 complete sets of brakes.I replaced a few CV joint boots. I think I rebuilt the alternator once, and replaced the timing belt and water pump. That was IT. My 1990 Aerostar had a trans front seal leak,transmission input shaft, U-joints, and ball joints plus one exhaust system and about 4 or 5 sets of front brakes before I sold it at 11 years of age with over 240,000 km on it. (not counting the warranty replacement of the short block because of a piston slap virtually from new) I had bought it from my Dad, who bought it new. My 1996 Mystique had a problem that turned on the check engine light - bank 1 lean - that I chased for a couple months after I bought it at age 6 years. Replaced intake gaskets and a few other things before I found the defective vacuum hose that collapsed under high vacuum, opening a crack that leaned out the engine. Other than that, A/C reciever, trans oil pan gasket, engine mount, lower strut bushings, brakes and a few electrical contact problems (brake lights 3 times, heater once, right front door window once. Thankfully not much - because it is a real PAIN to work on (2.5 L V6, 4 wheel disc brakes, etc. The antilock brakes/traction control has an issue now - don't think I'll bother fixing it. - and can't forget - the infamous "moosing" problem - solved by drilling a 3/16" hole in a 1/2" copper pipe cap and stuffing it into the hose to the IAC.
The 1995 TransSport was a totally different kettle of fish. You'd think the darn thing was made in England - if you didn't open the hood and fondle it's nuts about every other week it didn't feel good. About the second worst vehicle I ever owned. Ball joints and front wheel bearings lasted about as long as oil filters. CV Joints were not much better. Oxygen sensors should have had wing-nuts on them and the trim quality made my Chryslers look like Rolls Royces.
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Wrong. That just means you need to wait longer before you buy.
Let someone *else* pay most of the depreciation.

That doesn't mean it's smart to buy a new one -- it just means that it might be less stupid to buy a new one than a two-year-old one.

So buy a 5 or 6 year old car. So what?
Let someone *else* pay most of the depreciation.
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Total cost of ownership is *never* lowest with a new car.
In limited, unusual circumstances, it may be lowER with a new car than with a 1- or 2-year-old used car. But it is never lowEST when buying new. Never.
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wrote:

not an issue. Cost is - initial cost and repair cost - which translates to cost per year.
A new car, bought right, CAN cost less per year over 18 years than the used one, bought at 3 years, over 15 - or sometimes even the used one, bought at 5 years, over 13.
Depends a LOT on how you buy it. (cash or finance - what finance rate, and how good a deal you get - bought private, from dealer, or off used car lot (often the poorest deal)
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Talk to your friends. Friends don't let friends buy Fords.
Steve
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On Wed, 10 Aug 2011 22:32:04 -0400, Metspitzer wrote:

Why? What do you expect from a '11 truck that a used truck from previous years won't give you? (I'm not necessarily saying it's a bad plan, I'm just curious what the logic is)
cheers
Jules
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