Been that way a while. A friend and I kept an assortment of beaters
running through college and beyond. He got a real job and bought a
Volvo, '71 or so. It was injected and had a primitive computer under the
passenger seat. I managed to kick a cable getting in and the car
wouldn't start. We pile out, pop the hood, and look at the very
unfamiliar real estate thinking 'oh, shit. what now?'
engineer, a chemical engineer, and a computer engineer.
The car stalled out.
The mechanical engineer said, "It must be the pistons;
let's repair them and be on our way."
The electrical engineer said, "It has to be the spark plugs;
we'll replace them and be ready to roll in no time at all."
The chemical engineer said. "No, it's got to be bad gas;
we'll flush the system and be on our way."
They turned to the computer engineer. "What do you think
we should do?" they asked.
The computer engineer shrugged and said, "Let's get out
of the car, close the doors, then get back in and try
On 4/3/2015 8:03 PM, email@example.com wrote:
No can do. When a car depreciates roughly 20% after driving off the lot,
it's simply foolish to buy, IMO. I have had nothing but good success
with used cars all my life. Some required minor tweaking and/or repairs,
but as a whole, all good. New cars are not worth it to me.
If you buy a $22000 new car and drive it 18 years, the per year cost
of ownership - not counting repairs, is 1200 per year.
Buy that same car 6 years old for $6500 and keep it for 12 years, and
the cost per year is only about $542 per year.
The cost for repairs dor the last 12 years should theoretically be the
same, The $658 per year saved will more than make up for the extra
repairs if any.
Buy a 10 year old car with low mileage, like my 2002 Taurus purchased
with 58000km for $6500 at 10 years of age and drive it 8 years, and
the per year cost is about $812
Buy the same car used at 3 years of age for $16,000 and drive it 15
years, and the cost per year is still $1066 per year.
I find the "sweet spot" for me is a low mileage 5 or 6 year old car
with 100000km +/- for $5000 to $6000 and drive the wheels off it.
We don't (or haven't in the past) put a lot of miles per year on our
cars, It's worked very well for me over the last few decades,
I paid just a wee bit more for an older car with fewer miles and in
fantastic condition this time 'round because it was available, my wife
liked it, and it could well be the last car I buy for her to drive.
So far 3 years with no repairs in 33000km ( a few good road trips)
On 4/3/2015 10:24 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
As I explained briefly below, this car will be a summer ride as I will
keep my other Civic for winter, the newer Civic for summer and that will
still be limited use due to the fact I ride a motorcycle whenever I can.
Therefore, my overall maintenance cost will be very minimal as long as I
don't pick a lemon.
Sometimes even a properly repaired accident car can be a good deal.
Emphasis on "properly". It doesn't take much for an insurance co to
write off a relatively new car.
For your purposes a vehicle with high mileage for the year - like a 3
year old car with 100,000km on it, can be a good deal because the
price is lower and you'll not live long enough, with your driving
patterns, to put on another 100,000. A 3 year old car with 100,000 on
it will be a highway car, in all probability, and 100,000 highway km
is about the same as 25,000 ciy km, as far as vehicle wear is
concerned. Many still look like new at that point in their life.
I've done it both ways and don't have a strong feeling either way. I
tend to hang on to vehicles. I bought my F150 new in '86. iirc it was
10K, so that 2K spread over almost 30 years doesn't keep me awake at night.
Depends on how you look at cars. It is merely transportation, or is the
car something we enjoy driving and want a better choice in what that is.
Economic considerations take second place in that situation.
I've had many used cars (starting at $15), but I really enjoy driving my
brand new top of the line Limited Turbo with every possible option. I
spent 23,000 miles a year in my car so I'm willing to pay for comfort
and goodies that are overpriced options.
Anything newer than what I currently drive is always filled with more
goodies and more comfort than the previous car before it. I'm satisfied
with that aspect even when used.
I usually keep two vehicles but haven't done so in many years. My last
car, prior to my current Honda, was a Mazda MX3, a great little car
which I never drove in winters due to the salt and it looked new at 13
years old. Therefore, I bought a beat up truck and used it in winters
until it died and I never replaced it. I started driving the Mazda and
within two winters, the rust was starting in.
This time, I will keep my current Honda Civic for winter, drive the
other Civic for summer and even that will be limited because I ride a
motorcycle whenever possible, except rain if it's expected. Therefore,
my summer car will maintain low mileage, still look great and keep
maintenance expenses down.
My father came of age during the Model T era and regarded everything but
a heater as a frill. Toward the end of his life it was fun shopping for
a new car with him. He didn't have any brand loyalty as long as the car
had a manual transmission, no radio, no power brakes, no power steering,
and doors. After he died and my mother went looking for a new car I had
quite a time convincing her she could drive an automatic. She'd only
been driving since the 1920's and never had driven one. She rapidly
became a fan, particularly of power steering.
The Yaris is Toyota's 'entry' car but the last one I bought has A/C,
ABS, stability control, and traction control and none of those were
options. The AT was an option but I bought it the same month Japan tried
to turn itself into a glowing heap of nuclear waste so I took what I
At one point in my life I spent over 100,000 miles a year in a Volvo
White truck. That set a remarkably low bar for my definition of creature
comforts. The bikes don't help either. Spending some time going down I90
at 80 mph on a DR650 with DOT knobbies redefines road noise and vibration.
Special to me, maybe not to others but it's a Honda Civic. I'm specific
about the Honda Civic due to many factors. For starters, the Vtech
engine is one of the best, IMO. The car as a whole is one of the best
and proven throughout the years. I love the look, the overall
reliability is top rated and it has great fuel mileage for not being a
hybrid. Therefore, it's a Honda Civic for me. To extend further, I want
a specific model (the EX), specific color (black) and auto trans. I've
owned vehicles 10 to 15 years each and my current Honda Civic is 20
years old though part of the actual age is from purchasing used since I
will never purchase a new car. I've been driving a manual since the day
I started driving and tired of shifting. Finally, the reason I will
search out of state is due to a greater chance of a reliable car, IMO.
In Michigan, we use salt for the roads in winter. We all know what salt
does to cars and even if it looks great on the body, one can never tell
underneath. Therefore, finding a car in the south, for instance, has a
lesser chance of rust problems.
Anyway, I was looking at the 2008 to 2011 Civics but trying to stay
under $10,000. I came across a 2012 online and realized they changed the
interior along with dash display in that year and I really like it.
Thus, I figure it's finally time to treat myself, what the hell, I can
pay a couple thousand more. That 2012 is from a dealer in Kissimmee and
the asking price is damn good for that year. After speaking with them,
they specified their purchasing it from an auction and that's what lead
me to asking.
I wouldn't count on that at all; FL and the Gulf Coast can beachside
which may be as damaging or even more so from the salt air if the
particular vehicle has lived its life close...
And, of course, there's always the wondrous possibility of it having
been through one or more of the hurricanes with resultant flood damage
Not likely, but sight unseen you really have no way of knowing for
certain. I'd certainly be cautious on the terms of any relief for
discovered/undisclosed "issues" whatever they may be.
on ocean salt and cars lessens my concerns because it doesn't compare to
a vehicle's full blown exposure to a tremendous amount of salt to melt
snow and ice. In harsher winters, it's even worse. Overall, I'd take my
chances on an ocean resided vehicle than a winter salted vehicle. As for
floods, all I can do is obtain information on floodings within the area
I search. For example, I had serious intent on a 2009 Civic in Bolivia
NC. My father in law lives 30 minutes from there. Unfortunately, the guy
had someone look at it the day I called and it sold. I would have hopped
on a plane the next day to get it otherwise. It was well taken care of
and a great price. Also, I knew there were no flood issues in that area.
In other southern states, both those concerns are much less.
Either way, it's all a chance, though mainly cause I can't drive to view
the car and turn away if I change my mind. Otherwise, the odds, IMO, of
finding a better car out of state do to the reasons I stated are better
than inner state.
If you look in the western states rust isn't much of a problem. Few use
salt and it's pretty dry throughout the year. The mileage tends to run
high but today a 100,000 mile car is just getting broken in and it's
difficult to spin them anymore so the miles are accurate.
Corrosion is very slow when it is very cold and dry. It is quite fast
when it is warm and wet.
If a northern "rust belt" car is well washed in the spring, and oiled
yearly, there will be very little rust (as my 19 year old rustbelt
Ranger and 13 year old rustbelt Taurus prove) while a coastal southern
saltwater car litterlly soaks in brine all year, and is unlikely to
have rust-resit treatments done.
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