OT: Auto Shopping

I'm shopping for a specific car to the point I'm willing to travel out of state. Therefore, my searches will bring some interesting concerns and one in particular is a car which was sold at an auction. The title is clean and apparently no accidents and other problems with it. I'm wondering then what are reasons why a car would be sold at an auction?

It may be nothing but I'm under the suspicion auctioned vehicles have had problems in the past.

Anyone with knowledgeable insight on this topic?

Thanks

Reply to
Meanie
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Often new car dealers will auction a car if it isn't a model that moves well in their area or is older than they want to stock . Doesn't mean that there have or have not been problems . Where did you think used car dealers got their stock ?

Reply to
Terry Coombs

Dealers keep the best cars for their own lots and the rest go to auction. Sometimes, a dealer will do a swap with another local dealer. In my town, the local Caddy dealer took a very nice Lincoln in trade. He sold it to the local Ford dealer that would be better poised to get the best price.

If a dealer has a good month and takes in more trades than he can handle, they go to auction. OTOH, if he is doing well on used cars, he may buy at auction to keep his lot filled. My local Buick dealer told me he makes more profit on used than new cars.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

I suppose it depends on what type of auction, and how many miles on the car.

I've bought 3 cars & 1 truck through a repo auction over the years. Not one of the vehicles had over 4K miles on it. All still came with a factory warranty for the drivetrain & for body rust out. That was a manufacturer warranty. One of the vehicles was Turbo Charged, and something happened to the system at about 40+K miles. I was surprised this was under warranty, but something about the EPA states something about the fuel system must carry a 50K warranty. Needless to say, I was glad I didn't have to absorb the cost.

Reply to
Tyler B.

Some are bank repo.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

I've looked at auctions to buy a car, but I have the opposite problem from yours this time. That is, they rarely sell convertibles, and even if they have one, it's not worth going far for just one. But if they have what you want, and other places don't have it, that changes everything.

They'll let you start it and let it run a bit, won't they, even if they won't let you drive it? That will tell you a few things, though not about the transmission, or the suspension. You can test the steering and brakes a litle. I've always bought from private sellers, always test driven it, but I still set aside 1000 dollars for repairs. Now that cars cost more, I set aside 2000 dollars. Only spent it once, however. But if I can't drive it, I'd double the amount I set aside,

4000, or even more. I do want a good interior and body because fixing those are expensive. Fixing the drive train etc. I might be able to do myself.

When I shop, I don't ask the current owner any questions. I don't want to make a liar out of him, or be mad at him if I find out his answers were false.

Reply to
micky

There is nothing practical, on any level, about owning a convertible.

Reply to
bob_villa

Trade ins.

Reply to
Meanie

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Thank you, gents.

I have limit knowledge of how dealers work. You've extended that knowledge and helped me make easier decisions.

Anyone live in Kissimmee who wants to check out a car for me? LO...just kidding.

Reply to
Meanie

My greatest concern with used cars is reliability - reliability of the vehicle not being a lemon, having a false odometer reading, or having undisclosed damage, and reliability of the dealer to offer a reasonable warranty, stand behind it if necessary, and still be in business to respond to a warranty problem.

I keep my cars until they become unreliable and/or unsafe - usually 8-11 years, and feel sorry for whoever purchases my car from a used car dealer. Therefore, I always worry that a used car may not just be a repo or a trade-in of a perfectly fine vehicle for something snazzier.

If I were to buy a used car, I'd shop at a large, national-chain used car store that has a good reputation for reliability, gets and uses vehicle history reports as a matter of policy, has a good warranty, and has been in business for at least 5 years. You might pay a little more up front than at the local corner lot, but I suspect that you'll end up paying less overall (if you plan to keep the used car more than a year or two).

Reply to
Peter

Anything special about the car? Some of the cars I've seen at auctions were in good shape but just weren't good sellers and were being dumped by dealers.

Reply to
rbowman

Well, having spent half my life in the auto business - and half of that at dealerships, I can tell you that New Car dealer's used car lots are only half or less local trade-ins at that dealership. Often the local Toyota dealer will take the used Toyotas from, say, the Ford dealer, and the Ford dealer will get the Fords from the Toyota dealer. It's a lot simpler when the same dealer principal owns several different dealerships. Any dealership with a large used car lot will have "auction cars" on the lot. If a car doesn't move on his lot, it's off to the auction and he comes back with one he figures he can sell. One color or model will not sell in one area, but sells like hotcakes

30 miles away.

When you are talking "used car lots" not tied to a new car dealer, well over half will generally be auction cars - the rest local trade-ins he wholesales from local dealers. Many used car dealers have "contracts" with local dealers to take any trade over, say, 4 years old - and if he can't sell them, HE takes them to the auction. Others just have "contacts" at the dealerships - the dealer knows "Bob's Used Cars" will take every GM vehicle that comes in, "Bubba's Auto Emporium" will take every pickup he can get his hands on, and "Guido's Auto Mart" will take every European car that comes in. Then there's "Can-Save" used car sales and leasing who will take anything he can buy for under $1500 - $2500 if it looks REALLY good - that he can sell to folks with bad credit and get it back for non-payment and resell it again 2 or 3 times. Modified "tuner" cars and "muscle " cars and "gagsta" vehicles are his hot sellers. He also buys all the used "bling" from the local auto wreckers and is occaisionally the target of local plice investigation into local chop-shop and auto-theft rings when questionable vehicles are found on his lot..

Reply to
clare

Special to me, maybe not to others but it's a Honda Civic. I'm specific about the Honda Civic due to many factors. For starters, the Vtech engine is one of the best, IMO. The car as a whole is one of the best and proven throughout the years. I love the look, the overall reliability is top rated and it has great fuel mileage for not being a hybrid. Therefore, it's a Honda Civic for me. To extend further, I want a specific model (the EX), specific color (black) and auto trans. I've owned vehicles 10 to 15 years each and my current Honda Civic is 20 years old though part of the actual age is from purchasing used since I will never purchase a new car. I've been driving a manual since the day I started driving and tired of shifting. Finally, the reason I will search out of state is due to a greater chance of a reliable car, IMO. In Michigan, we use salt for the roads in winter. We all know what salt does to cars and even if it looks great on the body, one can never tell underneath. Therefore, finding a car in the south, for instance, has a lesser chance of rust problems.

Anyway, I was looking at the 2008 to 2011 Civics but trying to stay under $10,000. I came across a 2012 online and realized they changed the interior along with dash display in that year and I really like it. Thus, I figure it's finally time to treat myself, what the hell, I can pay a couple thousand more. That 2012 is from a dealer in Kissimmee and the asking price is damn good for that year. After speaking with them, they specified their purchasing it from an auction and that's what lead me to asking.

Reply to
Meanie

I always keep my cars for a long time and this one may most likely be my last providing it's reliable.

Reply to
Meanie

Reply to
micky

On 04/02/2015 4:05 PM, Meanie wrote: ...

I wouldn't count on that at all; FL and the Gulf Coast can beachside which may be as damaging or even more so from the salt air if the particular vehicle has lived its life close...

And, of course, there's always the wondrous possibility of it having been through one or more of the hurricanes with resultant flood damage and all.

Not likely, but sight unseen you really have no way of knowing for certain. I'd certainly be cautious on the terms of any relief for discovered/undisclosed "issues" whatever they may be.

Reply to
dpb

Mickey,

You have to consider the source with Boob Villa. He is annoyed with many people.

Reply to
Gordon Shumway

Agreed and though of the ocean salt and flood issues often. Reading up on ocean salt and cars lessens my concerns because it doesn't compare to a vehicle's full blown exposure to a tremendous amount of salt to melt snow and ice. In harsher winters, it's even worse. Overall, I'd take my chances on an ocean resided vehicle than a winter salted vehicle. As for floods, all I can do is obtain information on floodings within the area I search. For example, I had serious intent on a 2009 Civic in Bolivia NC. My father in law lives 30 minutes from there. Unfortunately, the guy had someone look at it the day I called and it sold. I would have hopped on a plane the next day to get it otherwise. It was well taken care of and a great price. Also, I knew there were no flood issues in that area. In other southern states, both those concerns are much less.

Either way, it's all a chance, though mainly cause I can't drive to view the car and turn away if I change my mind. Otherwise, the odds, IMO, of finding a better car out of state do to the reasons I stated are better than inner state.

Reply to
Meanie

Well, all but one of my very numerous vehicles have been purchased used. As far as dealers and used car lots - about half. The rest have been bought privately or wholesale and "as is" 1961 mini - private

1963 Valiant-used car lot 1969 Dart -wholesale as is 1953 Coronet - scrap yard 1965 Rambler - as is off the back row 1972 Colt - used off dealer lot 1957 Fargo - private (family) 1974 Dart - Private 1976 RamCharger - New off lot - total pain in the butt dealing with dealer!!!! 1975 Pacer - off the back row of dealer lot as is when I sold the Ramcharger back to the dealer 1972 Firenza (Vauxhaul Viva HC/Magnum - private 1980 Corolla - wholesale from dealer I worked for 1982 Tercel - wholesale from dealer I worked for -made deal with original owner 1976 Monarch Ghia -wholesale off back row of dealer I worked for 1973 Ambassador - private 1990 Aerostar - from Chrysler Dealer 1992 Areostar - private - family 1995 Trans Sport - Private 1985 LeBaron - Private 1988 New Yorker - wholesale from auto broker - as is. 1995 Mystique - private 2003 PT Cruiser - private 1996 Ranger - Private 2002 Taurus - used from Ford Dealer - as traded

plus half a dozen or more "project cars" purchased privately and either never driven or owned for less than a year (or both).

I generally buy about 6 years old and drive 5 or 6 years - occaisinally as long as 12.. Only 2 went to the scrap yard when I was done, and 2 or 3 were sold "as is", needing some work.

Two had over 240,000 miles, and several over 240,000km on them when sold.

2 current vehicles are 19 and 13 years old, with 331,000 and 91,000km

- would take either one of them accross north america tomorrow, and both look like 2 or 3 year old vehicles, condition-wise.

Only the Mini, the LeBaron and the TransSport required large amounts of maintenance/repairs, other than the brand new RamCharger that was back to the dealer numerous times for problems I eventually ended up repairing myself.

Reply to
clare

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