Need suggestions for renewing old oak floor

[Mac Cool]

We ripped the carpet up in our dining room and found an oak floor. Originally we were going to refinish the floor but the wife decided she likes the patina of the old wood. The floor will have to have some sort of surface treatment because it is worn almost down to bare wood.

Many of the boards have separated slightly and left gaps 1/32-1/16". I would like to fill these cracks.

My wife just wanted to wax the floor but it needs a sealing topcoat. Someone suggested oil, but oil offers nearly zero scuff resistance and no moisture resistance.

My plan is to clean the floor very well. Use a wood filler that is similiar to the existing color or slightly darker to fill the gaps, then recover the floor with shellac. I chose shellac because it is easier to work than varnish, doesn't smell much, dries very quickly, isn't finicky about surface prep and is easy to repair.

Alternatives?

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Depends on where you live. this is January and in many houses, it is dry now but wil be humid in July and the gap will disappear as the wood swells.

Shellac has been used for years. Be sure to ventilate well as the alcohol is flammable.

[willshak]

On 1/12/2005 1:34 AM US(ET), Mac Cool took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

Yeah, do whatever the wife says, despite what you think should be done.

[Kyle Boatright]

I've seen floors where people tried to fill the gaps with putty. Those floors look awful.

Think twice (or three times) before you do that. It is more or less irreversable...

KB

[Cliff Hartle]

After you fill the gaps you will have to sand the floor to make the filler flush and to cleanup it up off the existing floor.

In the summer the floor will expand and the filler will start to pop out making it look worse.

As for shellac, I don't think it will hold up very well.

[Duane Bozarth]

I'll reiterate one of the other mantras...absolutely do try to fill the gaps between boards--it will either restrict the normal movement of the floor and, at best, result in the filler popping out or, at worst, cause the floor to buckle.

I would also not use shellac on a floor--it isn't sufficiently hard to stand up to the traffic.

Not being able to see your floor from here to judge it's actual condition, I'd recommend you get a professional to evaluate it and suggest options.

Lacking that, it would at a minimum need to be stripped of any residual wax and cleaned. Depending on what the previous finish is, it may be possible to reconstitute that finish. If not, any finish would also need to be stripped and a light sanding prior to a re-application of a stain to blend in defects, etc., prior to finishing would be the ticket. A floor varnish will be the best choice. It can be be buffed out to the desired degree of polish.

[John Hines]

Shellac is not at all moisture resistant, it is damaged very quickly by any exposure to water.

[LDR]

As someone once said, there is no beauty that hath not strangness of proportion; meaning, in your context, what turned on your wife are the imperfections of the floor, along with its other qualities. So live with it. Light sanding and a satin poly finish. Nothing could be easier, or probably as durable, and if you don't like it, it will be easy to sand off to the point where you started in the first place. What you are in danger of doing--I say confidently but not really knowing--is turning a beautiful patined (sp) candlestick into something bright, shiney, and ordinary.

[xrongor]

agreed. if its a small crack, just call it character. if its a big crack, get some wood that matches it somewhat close and start whittling. better to put new wood in and finish that than try and make the putty look good.

if you want a new floor, buy a new floor.

randy

[m Ransley]

Refinishing by a pro is best, forget the DIY aproach , get bids. Nobody here can see it.

[SpamFree]

Nonsense.

[SpamFree]

[e-mail] (Joe Bobst) wrote:

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[nospambob]

[Norminn]

[Norminn]

If a cleaning is all that it needs, try fine steel wool and mineral spirits. I've used it on old furniture many times. If the finish is totally worn through, you might be able to repair it, although that takes skill and a bit of luck. If the wood is dirty, fine sanding and app of matching stain....very chancy but "doable". I've mixed my own stains using artist oils, linseed oil and min sp.

To clean it, vacuum thoroughly. If crud is down in the spaces between boards, dig it out and vacuum again. Damp mop - don't leave standing water on it - with tepid water and Murphy's Oil Soap. Sink protruding nails. Use fine steel wool and mineral spirits, scrubbing with the grain. Mop up the remains with clean rags or paper towels. Dispose of the waste appropriately. A good, buffable REAL wax coating may be all that it needs after that. They are nice and need only occ damp mop/rebuff. Re-wax about once a year, depending on traffic and soiling.

[nospambob]

[Will Turner]

That's quite possibly the dumbest thing I've ever read, if true, which I doubt, the people responsible knew nothing about finishes. First, the only time shellac should be used under varnish is as a spit coat to seal an improperly prepared or contaminated (wax or silicone) surface so the varnish will adhere; second, you never put a hard finish (varnish) over a softer finish (shellac) except as noted above; third, laqueur has all the advantages of both varnish and shellac is the only finish used on fine pianos AFAIK.

--Willy

[forrest]

"Norminn" wrote

I agree with your comments about the look of many polys. I have had good luck with a product called OS Hardwax Oil. (available via mail through the Environmental Home Center and probably other places). It seems to preserve the character of our 100 year old floors, holds up well in the kitchen, and, as a wax-based finish, can be spot repaired because new finish blends with old. as a bonus, it is supposedly more friendly to the installer in terms of fumes and off-gassing. so they say.

[Douglas Johnson]

I've been told by a professional refinisher that you can't put poly over an old oil and wax finish (I assume that's is what is there) without a complete sanding. The wax in the pores of the wood will keep the poly from sticking and result in a floor with cloudy specks in it.

We have some oak floors that are oiled and waxed and some that are poly. For looks, I prefer the oil and wax. The poly is in the kitchen where water is a risk. For scuf resistance and general wear, they seem equal.

It's hard to tell what to do without seeing the floor. For sure, don't fill the cracks. If the old finish is oil and wax, I'd consider renting a floor buffer, screening it lightly, put down a coat of oil that is close to the exisiting color, let it dry overnight, then wax and buff.

-- Doug

[Mac Cool]

Douglas Johnson:

That is correct. Another advantage of shellac is that it will adhere equally well to raw wood, wax & oil or old varnish. I considered wax & oil but shellac offers greater scuff resistance. We cleaned and tested a small area with shellac and it looks great. We plan to go ahead after we put down the new kitchen floor.