I'm planning to use tapcons (just remembered the name - got CRS syndrome) to
mount the corner bracket mentioned in my other thread to the outside brick
wall of my house. I also need to drill a hole through the wall and into the
house large enough to thread three cables with connectors attached. FWIW,
they are one BNC, - oops, CRS strikes again - one 12VDC power cable with a
coaxial center pin and an as yet undetermined connector for the two very low
voltage RS-485 PTZ network controller wires. Advice needed about those,
too - what sort of non-permanent connector would be best for what look like
two 22 gage stranded wires? A 4 pin modular phone connector? Mini-plug and
jack? Jelly beans?
Anyway, I got some long masonary bits from Harbor Fright and the bits that
come with the tapcon kit but I am wondering how to make sure the hole I
drill from the outside ends up exactly where I want it on the inside. The
plan is to very carefully measure from a reference point accessible from the
inside and out - in this case the window frame - and drill from the outside
in because I am afraid the brick will spaul if I go from the inside out. I
can always spackel a messy inside hole but I've yet to see brick spackel.
The problem is that the inside hole location is far more critical than the
outside one. I have a B&D (alledged) hammer drill that's got lots of
torque - 11A worth but I've never detected any particular hammering action
no matter how I set the various levers and adjustments. It looks like a
regular drill and very unlike the hammer drills Harbor Fright sells - which
I would be willing to buy if such a drill is required to do the job right.
I always welcome an excuse to buy a new tool! :-)
Someone said it's better to drill through the mortar, but I don't think the
holes in the camera mounting bracket will line up with more than one mortar
joint and drilling into crumbling old mortar spooks me a little. It's
really old brick. I mean really, REALLY old. I seem to recall someone
posting about a disasterous kitchen vent fan install thru a brick wall a
while back, so I would like to hear (or be pointed to a good site) that
discusses the trials and tribble-ations of drilling into and through old
I am more than a little concerned because a neighbor mounted a new handrail
on his brick porch and discovered that the mortar was bad and collapsed a
whole course of bricks. Since my bricklaying experience is equal to my
brick drilling experience (nada por dos) I thought I would seek advice from
those who have been there and done that. Thanks!!!!
For what it's worth, I have a number of practice bricks that I will begin to
play with tomorrow just to get a feel for things.
Drilling into the mortar is generally how it's done. If it's a good
quality "hard" brick it will be like trying to drill through stone.
In my town, 100 years ago there was a beautiful "Cream City" brick that
is soft and has proven not to hold up well. That kind of stuff is
I would be careful of inside vs outside measurements for locating the cable
hole. The trim around the outside of the window may be different dimensio
ns from the trim around the inside of the window, so you should measure fro
m some common point like the edge of the glass itself, for example.
On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 21:13:37 -0400, "Sherlock.Homes"
Drill into the mortar joint and use plastic anchors and SS screws.
I've done that in many places. One of them is to hold a hose reel
weighing about 50 lbs.
If the bracket holes don't line up with the joints, attach a couple
wood strips to the mortar joints and screw your bracket to those.
Don't risk cracking your bricks.
If the mortar is crumbling, you need tuckpointing.
Don't drill into ANY mortar joint, drill into the HORIZONTAL mortar
The vertical mortar joints on a brick wall will often only be filled
with mortar for the first inch or so. Beyond that, the joint is empty.
The horizontal mortar joints have to support the entire weight of the
brickwork above, and will be completely full of mortar.
If the holes in your bracket don't line up with your mortar joints,
drill more holes in your bracket.
That's why I thought I would ask. When I looked around outside I noticed
that the power lines from the pole, the phone lines, A/C control box, etc.
were all mounted via the mortar. That's why I asked. Never done this
before in my life! I probably would have figured it out - eventually.
I have some bricks I can test with, but I am assuming that brick widths are
standard and the holes on the bracket I get *might* be spaced accordingly.
If they aren't, they will be. Muchos gracias!
whole new mounting bracket so I could drill into the mortar. Never heard of
anyone successfully drilling into bricks.
I won't be the one to break your streak. Into the mortar I go! If I need
to drill new holes, that should be simple enough. Like a stopped watch
being right twice a day, at least two horizontal holes should line up.
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:33:43 AM UTC-4, Sherlock.Homes wrote:
I would agree that drilling the mortar would be the easier solution. But
I have to disagree with those that say you can't drill through bricks.
I did it a few years back to add a bath fan. It required making an opening
in the brick wall to fit the exhaust pipe, ie about a 3.5 or larger hole.
I drilled holes all around the perimeter, then knocked the pieces out.
I didn't even have a hammer drill, just a regular one with a masonry bit.
It wasn't all that hard. Bricks may vary, but these were not that tough.
I would be careful of inside vs outside measurements for locating the cable
hole. The trim around the outside of the window may be different dimensions
from the trim around the inside of the window, so you should measure from
some common point like the edge of the glass itself, for example.
===================================================Good point, hr. I was going to open the nearest window and clamp a long 1
by 2" wood strip in the corner of the open window's frame. Should be the
same distance inside and out, yes?
I have some plastic coated screws called Tapcons. I hope they will do the
Oooh. Ugly, but we're talking about a PTZ camera that looks like the head
of a decapitated robot. I guess that makes ugly relative. :0)
I've already been convinced. Mortar is more easily drilled - and replaced
if it crumbles.
What are you, my wife??!!!! I KNOW I need tuckpointing and we were just
arguing about that yesterday because the front porch got seriously eroded
from just one shot of that deicing crap and one of the bricks is actually
working loose. My neighbors used some sort of expensive "safe for the
environment and walkways" crap when we were away. So while I appreciated
them clearing the porch and saving us from a lawsuit, as they say, no good
deed goes unpunished. The rest of the mortar around the house is in better
shape, but not much better. I guess I should start a new thread about
tuckpointing and whether I should/could do it myself or whether it's best to
hire it out. Dziekuje bardzo for your thoughts, Vic.
Excellent points, especially re: vertical joints have less mortar. Never
would have thought of that - it's why I love the "brain trust" of the
internet. When the bracket arrives I am hoping that the holes will line up
with the brick mortar joints but if they don't, by God they soon will! Does
Harbor Fright carry a hole mover? Grinning, ducking and running! I should
ask one of the clerks just to see what they say.
On Tue, 16 Sep 2014 07:48:12 -0400, "Sherlock.Homes"
The rest of the mortar around the house is in better
Dla nics. You can use vertical joints. Haven't found them less
sturdy than horizontals on my 2 brick houses.
Wood isn't ugly if you do it right. I use tapcons for concrete, and
plugs for mortar. Tapcons should work.
I had the works, ladder jacks, tools and mortar color when I started
tuckpointing my 2-flat. Did about 1/4 of one rough bricked side wall,
and found it so mind-numbing I got a crew to do it.
Glad I didn't try the finish brick.
On my current house my son was old enough (15) to pay him to do the 2
rough brick walls. I showed him how to mix the mortar (sand, cement,
lime, no coloring) and he did it, using the containers I provided.
The 2 sides with finish brick were ok, and still are. He did a
thorough if sloppy job, but I told him not to worry about it, just get
the mix right and fill the joints.
Simple pointing tools, with a convex joint.
He was afraid to do the chimney, and I let that go. About 10 years
later a guy scoping chimneys in the neighborhood rang the doorbell,
and offered to do it for $150. It was done that day. He did a fine
It all depends on how neat you want it. You want the face bricks
absolutely neat, but may not care about the appearance of the joints
of the rough brick. I didn't.
You don't have to cut out mortar if the house had bricks laid with a
good mortar. It weathers away. Just remove loose mortar and work
new into the joints.
Except for the face brick, which takes skill, it's very doable.
You could do the finish brick with patience and time.
But boring as all get out.
Good to know, still, I think Nestork might have a point. This house was
clearly built on the cheap and if any house is going to have bad vertical
mortar joints, its this one.
What kind of plugs? I have lead bolt anchors that I could use.
I guess I won't have to start a new thread. :)
I'm going to do more reading since I think I will have it done but I want to
make sure they use the right stuff.
I am surprised nobodys come out to ring my doorbell and offer the service
because all the houses in this neighborhood are the same age and most of
them need repointing. This is the time of year to get it done, too.
I want to plug some of the major holes that have appeared. Its funny - I
did not notice how bad it was until I started looking for places to mount
the camera. It sort of blends into the background and as I age, I don't
noticed as much as I used to. I tell my wife she still looks as lovely as
she did when I married her but I don't tell her it's because my eyesight's
gotten so crummy.
That's good to know.
A perfect job for someone other than me!!!!
I guess I should ask the landscaping crew chief - the only one that speaks
English - if he knows someone who can do it. I've been putting it off but
it's getting to be time to get it done.
If the bracket holes don't line up with the brick mortar joints, just
use a piece of lumber to install the bracket. Screw the lumber to the
horizontal mortar joints, and then screw the bracket to the lumber. If
that camera doesn't weigh more than a few ounces, you can fasten the
bracket to the lumber with 5/8 inch screws and that will be plenty
Paint the top end/edge and back side of the lumber (facing the brick)
with end cut preservative so that any rain water accumulated there won't
cause the wood to start rotting. Allow a half hour for the end cut
preservative to be absorbed, and then wipe the excess off before
mounting the lumber. You can paint the rest of the wood to match the
brick colour if you want.
And, if it were me, I would caulk around 3 sides of the wood (Top and
both sides, leaving the bottom uncaulked) with Stone Mason Gutter and
Siding Sealant sold at Home Depot in Canada (at least) to prevent rain
water accumulation behind the wood. This product is made by the Henry
Company, which I think also operates in the USA. If you can't get this,
then an identical product is called "Kop-R-Lastic" caulk which you
should be able to find locally. Kop-R-Lastic comes in 8 colours,
whereas Stone Mason Gutter & Siding Sealant only comes in white and
clear. Kop-R-Lastic has a larger colour choice, Stone Mason's packaging
(the tube graphics) are a little more attractive, but what's inside the
tubes is identical.
'Stone Mason | Stone Mason Gutter & Siding | Home Depot Canada'
The reason why you want to use this caulk, and nothing but this caulk,
is because it's cohesive strength is even higher than it's adhesive
strength, meaning that it sticks to itself even better than it sticks to
most construction materials, like brick and mortar. So, if you ever
want to remove that bracket, to replace it or eliminate it, you just
have to get one end of the caulk started and it'll pull off the brick
and mortar cleanly, just like a rubber rope. It won't leave a mark on
your porous brick that's difficult to remove like other caulks will. I
have 66 windows in my apartment block, and I won't use any other caulk
on them except this one. If you can't get this caulk, I wouldn't use
any caulk at all.
On Tue, 16 Sep 2014 09:52:29 -0400, "Sherlock.Homes"
Any 1/4" or 3/8" plastic plugs should do for a camera. Same as you
use for drywall, but get SS screws. Lead plugs are for heavy stuff,
like porch ledger beams.
Get the right drill bit with plugs, and just tap them in with a
He was a little middle-aged Polish guy. Hustling. Knew his stuff.
And it gets progressively worse as water penetrates and freezes.
You can practice your mortar mixing on the joints behind the camera.
Before you put the camera up.
That method has worked for me, or spotting a crew doing the work.
The price can vary tremendously, so shop.
Camera is two and a half kilos, or so it says on the box, but it also says
worth $50 for customs declarations, so who you gunna believe? It feels like
15 pounds but I will weigh it just for the helluva it.
I am really hoping that if it doesn't line up, my drill will fix that. If
that's not possible, I may punt and consider a wooden intermediate plate. I
may consider smearing construction adhesive on the flange that contacts the
brick to give it some added strength and as a sealant. Good idea.
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