MILLIVOLT generator (2023 Update)

Anyone know of a brand of 750 MILLIVOLT generator that actually puts out 750 millivolts instead of 583 millivolts like the "Made in Mexico" ones I keep finding so that I don't have to keep going back and replacing it as often, and, no, it's got nothing to do with the pilot flame strength or direction, I checked?

Reply to
Molly Brown
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A millivolt is a thousandth of a volt. Are you sure of your numbers? If yes, you can probably design your own generator using hamster toys and some cheap parts from Radio Shack.

Reply to
JoeSpareBedroom

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They are not cheap.

Reply to
Eric9822

Is that 583 MV open circuit? What brand are you using now? I haven't messed much with MV systems in more years than I'd lke to admit. We quit working on wall furnaces about 8-9 years ago, and floor furnaces before that. Back when we worked with them, we used General Controls PG9. They were rated at 750. I don't remember checking the actual output, but don't recall ever having a problem with them. I am looking in a Johnstone catalog right now (last year's tho). They have them and several others, though the PG9 is the only one that is the complete assembly. The others are generator cartridges that must be installed in the pilot burner. What exactly are you working on and what is it doing? I remember a lot of floor furnaces and a few wall heaters that originally had PG1's (250 MV). I would think nearly 600MV would be adequate for most any MV system. What kind of GV you got? Larry

Reply to
lp13-30

Good luck. General Controls stopped some years back. You're stuck with Honeywell or White Rogers replacements. And those replacements are 500 mv generators. Sorry.

Reply to
Zyp

I worked on heating units since a child in the 60's. Most home units were milivolt or 24 volt. If your new powerpile generator of 750 volts is nnot ginving at least 750 milivolts it is either faulty, cheap junk or probably you are experiencing other problems. Millivolt switches and controls are very sensitive to any voltage other than milivolts! Once you test with a continuity tester you may have slightly burnt the points of the switch or control. This will add resistance and decreases the voltage. So always use a milivolt test meter to find if a circuit is complete. Bad wiring connections will also decrease the power as well will a long run of wire, or too large of wire. 18 gauge thermostat wire is best, even if you are running to a thermostat upstairs. If you have a fireplace problem, they often have a small battery operated relay and even an on/off switch. Further if there is a temperature control involved or even a gas valve then you will have further problems possibly. Often a new powerepile generator will cause old controls to begin to burn out and fail. _Mostly_ be sure you have a very clean pilot! This is where you find that a small or dirty pilot or one with too large of an orifice will not heat the generator correctly and you will have low voltage. 8 out of 10 times with a powerpile the problem is the flame! A clean pilot that is correct is half of the issue with generating 750 milivolts! A good clean flame can be described as follows: It is Colorado Sky Blue in color (Orange is dust and Yellow is carbon. Orange is Okay, There Should not be any Yellow!) If yellow is there the pilot is dirty or the orifice is too large or the gas pressure is wrong. Yellow is exhibits too much carbon in the combustion giving off the gas Carbon Monoxide, and a sign of incomplete combustion caused by lack of Oxygen. Complete Combustion will give you a safer gas your plants like called Carbon Dioxide. _*Conclusion*:_ Clean your pilot and orifice, replace the powerpile, test the voltage before connecting to other controls. Ten proceed for further diagnosis. Check for loose wire nuts loose connections, failing switches or controls.

Reply to
KDH

You're 15 years late. Its unlikely the owner is still waiting for your fix.

Reply to
chop

Are you saying that a continuity tester that runs on 9 volts more or less will be enough to burn points? I've never heard that.

What is a millivolt test meter used to find if a circuit is complete other than being an ohmmeter or a VOM, and whatever ohm scale it is set to, is it not still using the same battery, 9 volts more or less?

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Reply to
micky

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