metal screws?, replacement for today's crap duc tape?

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Also don't buy those plastic friction fit dryer duct connectors. They fail in a few months.

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werwer wrote:

My suggestion is get the duct work situated where all the connections are happy.
Tape the joints with aluminum tape, use the type that comes with peel off backing, it's the best.
If the ducting setup is uncooperative you can use some screws on temporary basis & then remove them & tape over holes when done.
I've have some aluminum tape installations that are 20+ years old & still sound.
btw the AL tape isn't really all that much more expensive than duct tape.
cheers Bob
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BobK207 wrote:

The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about 1/6 as long. Six times the price.
R
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RicodJour wrote:

The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about 1/6 as long. Six times the price
I'll be checking on that.......1/6 as long would make it only a 10 yard roll.........I'm way too cheap to pay $8 for 10 yards
The last roll of Al tape I got was in the 7 to $8 range & I recall it was pretty long. I'm not going to unroll it even though I'm tempted to.
I know they had a "short roll" about 10 yards but I opted for the long roll, it was a much better value.
The cheap duct tape is in the $3 range but the better stuff is $10 & up for 60 yards.
I don't think the price ratio is 6:1, I'm thinking it's more like 2:1 or less.
Just my experience
I still wouldn't use even the best duct tape even if it was free!
cheers Bob
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werwer wrote:

go to a heating and air conditioning supply house and buy your tape from there.... it will be of better quality than walmart or home cheapo tape.....
or you could use cheap tape but first spray the joint you want connected with some spray adhesive....
or use a big metal hose clamp......
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werwer wrote:

There is nothing wrong with real duct tape. That "economy" stuff at wally etc is a different story.
second

Yes, thats the reason to use tape.

You could get it at at a real plumbing/heating supply store.
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